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Old 06-20-2015, 11:37 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by randygk View Post
Just lowered pin box enough to clean and lube. Don't know what the pin box weighs, but maybe another time I'll remove it completely.
That is very hard to do, being you have wiggle it down make sure you have an extra set of hands helping you. Had two very big engineers look at mine they got it wiggled down enough to clean under the pad only and they both broke into a sweat trying to do that and they designed it.
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Old 06-20-2015, 11:39 AM   #12
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Based STRICTLY on how adamant the engineers were about NOT lubing the pivot shaft, IF it were mine, I would lower it again and get some Brakleen and clean the lub off, use dry or lithium grease on the flat plates and re-assemble and torque to 80 lb/ft and then tightened to the next slot in the castellated nut and pinned.
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Old 06-20-2015, 05:12 PM   #13
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Oc as Cover Dog mentioned you know quite a bit about this subject --getting a new truck next wednesday, had a Tundra changed for a Denali HD, after a NEAR disaster accident, my question is this had in the Tundra (short bed) a Husky adjustable ez roller valley 16K would you recommend not to re-install the same hitch or change it.
Thanks claude002
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Old 06-20-2015, 06:15 PM   #14
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Oc as Cover Dog mentioned you know quite a bit about this subject --getting a new truck next wednesday, had a Tundra changed for a Denali HD, after a NEAR disaster accident, my question is this had in the Tundra (short bed) a Husky adjustable ez roller valley 16K would you recommend not to re-install the same hitch or change it.
Thanks claude002
Not being familiar with your hitch, but if it worked with the Tundra, see no reason to change if it will fit the Denali.

What caused the near disaster? Was it hitch related?
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Old 06-20-2015, 06:21 PM   #15
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Not related to the hitch itself, have a Reese Airborne very happy, the accident is related to the fact that I was to heavy for a 1/2ton pulling a 290 RLT Crusader and after 3 years of travel, on last trip lost 3 studs and lost control, lucky i drove 75,000 klm. a year every year for my job, had enough experience to stop safely, enyway thanks for your reply about the hitch.
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Old 06-20-2015, 06:32 PM   #16
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Oc as Cover Dog mentioned you know quite a bit about this subject --getting a new truck next wednesday, had a Tundra changed for a Denali HD, after a NEAR disaster accident, my question is this had in the Tundra (short bed) a Husky adjustable ez roller valley 16K would you recommend not to re-install the same hitch or change it.
Thanks claude002
I have the exact same hitch on my FORD 6.0 I have no problem at all. It is a great hitch. Just stay under 16K. had that pulling a 12000 lb. Jayco Eagle and now my Rockwood which is about 3000 lbs lighter. IMO you will be just find, unless you just want a different hitch. It will fit .. What was the weight of the 290? The hitch is not what probably almost caused your close accident as much as the 1/2 ton. Or was your old TV a 3/4 ton HD? You didn't say, I don't even know if Tundra makes a 3/4 ton. IMO anybody pulling a 5th wheel with a 1/2 ton is a no no even through a lot of people do it (Ford ecoboast will do it), but I'm not the weight police, If people feel safe with that combo, go for it. I'm not going to tell someone what is safe or not. But I bet your 290 weights more then mine. I have a friend that pulls a 38' CC with a Denila HD with no problems from what he tells me, and I know that weights more.
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Old 06-20-2015, 06:49 PM   #17
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Sorry -- sorry to all about my reply--being french misunderstood the thread--did not intend to do this, all I wanted was to ask if I could re-use the same hitch and the reply was yes----my problem was that I had an almost disaster because I was asking to much of my 1/2 ton truck and some parts brooke -- so to all, i have this to say 1/2 ton truck are not as safe as 3/4 ton trucks to pull 5th wheel, and my truck was properly serviced, so if you do pull a fifth wheel with 1/2 ton dont take for granted you are 100% safe.
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Old 06-21-2015, 08:26 AM   #18
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Based STRICTLY on how adamant the engineers were about NOT lubing the pivot shaft, IF it were mine, I would lower it again and get some Brakleen and clean the lub off, use dry or lithium grease on the flat plates and re-assemble and torque to 80 lb/ft and then tightened to the next slot in the castellated nut and pinned.
But the directions say to lube the bearing or bushing (depending on which Revolution you have)and the bushing goes the entire length of the shaft except for the threads. The tech I talked to sent me a new wear plate and said to use a lithium grease on the bearing and shaft. From the dealer my castle nut was not even hand tight which is why my plate got scratched. When I tightened it to the 80 ft lbs it was just part way past a hole. When torquing to the next hole it was over 150 ft lbs. He said that was too much and to back it off to the hole it was just past. This lowered it to 50 ft lbs which was ok.
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Old 06-21-2015, 08:34 AM   #19
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But the directions say to lube the bearing or bushing (depending on which Revolution you have)and the bushing goes the entire length of the shaft except for the threads. The tech I talked to sent me a new wear plate and said to use a lithium grease on the bearing and shaft. From the dealer my castle nut was not even hand tight which is why my plate got scratched. When I tightened it to the 80 ft lbs it was just part way past a hole. When torquing to the next hole it was over 150 ft lbs. He said that was too much and to back it off to the hole it was just past. This lowered it to 50 ft lbs which was ok.
Like I stated, I was just relaying what the 2 engineers that designed it told us at Goshen. Glenn Jurczyk can verify what I stated. As always, you can do as you please.
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Old 06-21-2015, 08:43 AM   #20
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The problem is getting conflicting expert advise.
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