Reese Revolution Pin Box

[randygk]

Picked up our new Flagstaff 8528IKWS last month and brought it home. Finally got ready to start using it and decided to weigh it at a scale about 6 miles from home. When back home and unhitching I noticed metal pieces in the bed of the truck. The cotter pin from the castle nut where the pin box rotates had sheared off. I called Reese and they thought the nut may not have been torqued enough and maybe dirt or sand between the pivot plates.
I disassembled the pin box and cleaned, lubed (it was very dry) and re-torqued the nut. Wonder if anyone else has had this happen.

[OldCoot]

I hope you didn't lube the actual shaft that the pinbox rotates on. We were told by the 2 engineers that designed it to NEVER lube the pivot shaft, just a little lithium grease on the flat plates.

[B and B]

OC correct. Sounds like a torque issue for sure. This a near disaster waiting to happen. I would see my dealer for a review of what has happened, just for warranty sake.

[randygk]

I lubed everything on the pinbox. I guess I'll contact tech at Reese and ask. They are very helpful.

[Cover Dog]

OC's words are gospel...no one on this site knows more about that pin box.

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by randygk

Picked up our new Flagstaff 8528IKWS last month and brought it home. Finally got ready to start using it and decided to weigh it at a scale about 6 miles from home. When back home and unhitching I noticed metal pieces in the bed of the truck. The cotter pin from the castle nut where the pin box rotates had sheared off. I called Reese and they thought the nut may not have been torqued enough and maybe dirt or sand between the pivot plates.
I disassembled the pin box and cleaned, lubed (it was very dry) and re-torqued the nut. Wonder if anyone else has had this happen.

How many pounds did you torque it to? X'2 what OC said, just dry lube the pad area. That's a first that I heard of that the cotter pin broke.....Was it loose when you retorqued it?

[OldCoot]

Did you remove the hitch completely off the pivot shaft in the back?

[randygk]

The pin was sheared on both ends with the rest of the pin still in the threaded bolt end. Nut had started to loosen a little bit. I just emailed the tech I had contacted about lube requirements and there is a case #. Torque is 80 lb ft min, then tighten to next cotter pin hole. I noticed they call for a 1/4" cotter pin as the one I removed was about .190". It's probably one of those 1/2 inch plywood being less than 1/2" thing. I can't understand why they would not want the shaft lubed, but hopefully I'll find out.

[randygk]

Just lowered pin box enough to clean and lube. Don't know what the pin box weighs, but maybe another time I'll remove it completely.

[randygk]

From the manual;
MAINTENANCE:
1. For ease of hookup; frequently lubricate the wedge surfaces, back side of the king pin, and the skid plate surface.
2. Keep pin-box hitch painted to prevent rust and maintain a good appearance. (Do Not paint over labels)
3. Tear down and inspect annually. Repair or replace any wore items. When reassembling use lithium on the wear plate,
wear bushing, and bearing. Tighten large castle nut to a minimum of 80 ft. lbs. and then tighten to nearest through hole
for cotter pin installation.

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by randygk

Just lowered pin box enough to clean and lube. Don't know what the pin box weighs, but maybe another time I'll remove it completely.

That is very hard to do, being you have wiggle it down make sure you have an extra set of hands helping you. Had two very big engineers look at mine they got it wiggled down enough to clean under the pad only and they both broke into a sweat trying to do that and they designed it.

[OldCoot]

Based STRICTLY on how adamant the engineers were about NOT lubing the pivot shaft, IF it were mine, I would lower it again and get some Brakleen and clean the lub off, use dry or lithium grease on the flat plates and re-assemble and torque to 80 lb/ft and then tightened to the next slot in the castellated nut and pinned.

[Claude002]

Oc as Cover Dog mentioned you know quite a bit about this subject --getting a new truck next wednesday, had a Tundra changed for a Denali HD, after a NEAR disaster accident, my question is this had in the Tundra (short bed) a Husky adjustable ez roller valley 16K would you recommend not to re-install the same hitch or change it.
Thanks claude002

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by Claude002

Oc as Cover Dog mentioned you know quite a bit about this subject --getting a new truck next wednesday, had a Tundra changed for a Denali HD, after a NEAR disaster accident, my question is this had in the Tundra (short bed) a Husky adjustable ez roller valley 16K would you recommend not to re-install the same hitch or change it.
Thanks claude002

Not being familiar with your hitch, but if it worked with the Tundra, see no reason to change if it will fit the Denali.

What caused the near disaster? Was it hitch related?

[Claude002]

Not related to the hitch itself, have a Reese Airborne very happy, the accident is related to the fact that I was to heavy for a 1/2ton pulling a 290 RLT Crusader and after 3 years of travel, on last trip lost 3 studs and lost control, lucky i drove 75,000 klm. a year every year for my job, had enough experience to stop safely, enyway thanks for your reply about the hitch.

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by Claude002

Oc as Cover Dog mentioned you know quite a bit about this subject --getting a new truck next wednesday, had a Tundra changed for a Denali HD, after a NEAR disaster accident, my question is this had in the Tundra (short bed) a Husky adjustable ez roller valley 16K would you recommend not to re-install the same hitch or change it.
Thanks claude002

I have the exact same hitch on my FORD 6.0 I have no problem at all. It is a great hitch. Just stay under 16K. had that pulling a 12000 lb. Jayco Eagle and now my Rockwood which is about 3000 lbs lighter. IMO you will be just find, unless you just want a different hitch. It will fit .. What was the weight of the 290? The hitch is not what probably almost caused your close accident as much as the 1/2 ton. Or was your old TV a 3/4 ton HD? You didn't say, I don't even know if Tundra makes a 3/4 ton. IMO anybody pulling a 5th wheel with a 1/2 ton is a no no even through a lot of people do it (Ford ecoboast will do it), but I'm not the weight police, If people feel safe with that combo, go for it. I'm not going to tell someone what is safe or not. But I bet your 290 weights more then mine. I have a friend that pulls a 38' CC with a Denila HD with no problems from what he tells me, and I know that weights more.

[Claude002]

Sorry -- sorry to all about my reply--being french misunderstood the thread--did not intend to do this, all I wanted was to ask if I could re-use the same hitch and the reply was yes----my problem was that I had an almost disaster because I was asking to much of my 1/2 ton truck and some parts brooke -- so to all, i have this to say 1/2 ton truck are not as safe as 3/4 ton trucks to pull 5th wheel, and my truck was properly serviced, so if you do pull a fifth wheel with 1/2 ton dont take for granted you are 100% safe.

[bplantcjf]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

Based STRICTLY on how adamant the engineers were about NOT lubing the pivot shaft, IF it were mine, I would lower it again and get some Brakleen and clean the lub off, use dry or lithium grease on the flat plates and re-assemble and torque to 80 lb/ft and then tightened to the next slot in the castellated nut and pinned.

But the directions say to lube the bearing or bushing (depending on which Revolution you have)and the bushing goes the entire length of the shaft except for the threads. The tech I talked to sent me a new wear plate and said to use a lithium grease on the bearing and shaft. From the dealer my castle nut was not even hand tight which is why my plate got scratched. When I tightened it to the 80 ft lbs it was just part way past a hole. When torquing to the next hole it was over 150 ft lbs. He said that was too much and to back it off to the hole it was just past. This lowered it to 50 ft lbs which was ok.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by bplantcjf

But the directions say to lube the bearing or bushing (depending on which Revolution you have)and the bushing goes the entire length of the shaft except for the threads. The tech I talked to sent me a new wear plate and said to use a lithium grease on the bearing and shaft. From the dealer my castle nut was not even hand tight which is why my plate got scratched. When I tightened it to the 80 ft lbs it was just part way past a hole. When torquing to the next hole it was over 150 ft lbs. He said that was too much and to back it off to the hole it was just past. This lowered it to 50 ft lbs which was ok.

Like I stated, I was just relaying what the 2 engineers that designed it told us at Goshen. Glenn Jurczyk can verify what I stated. As always, you can do as you please.

[bplantcjf]

The problem is getting conflicting expert advise.