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Old 04-19-2016, 09:36 PM   #1
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Repairing bent hydraulic landing gear leg

I have to replace/repair a bent hydraulic landing gear leg on my
Cardinal 5th wheel. I'm worried that when I disconnect the hydraulic lines I will spill a lot of fluid. Would it reduce fluid loss if I pulled shore power and removed battery connections in an effort to minimize pressure in the lines. Any other suggestions would be welcomed.

Ed
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Old 04-20-2016, 05:49 AM   #2
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I'm not familiar with your unit but I do work on hydraulics in my field. If you disconnect the battery it will keep the system from try to self level (if it's full auto). In general, the pressure will not/should not change until you break a line loose. If the control valves are in good condition you should only loose what is in the lines. You need to get all of the weight off the unit and support the trailer frame on both sides just in case the other leg leaks down.
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Old 04-20-2016, 09:56 AM   #3
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Mars, thanks for your reply. The Cardinal is not self leveling, with only the front landing gear controlled by an extend/retract switch. The unit is already supported on blocks, so now I'm just waiting for the courage to disconnect the lines.

Ed
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Old 04-20-2016, 10:01 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edshirl View Post
Mars, thanks for your reply. The Cardinal is not self leveling, with only the front landing gear controlled by an extend/retract switch. The unit is already supported on blocks, so now I'm just waiting for the courage to disconnect the lines.

Ed
Also remember that one drop of hydraulic fluid on your clothes and you will soon be covered from head to toe. That might be slightly exaggerated, but it does make a mess if spilled.
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Old 04-20-2016, 10:57 AM   #5
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Also remember that one drop of hydraulic fluid on your clothes and you will soon be covered from head to toe. That might be slightly exaggerated, but it does make a mess if spilled.
Sure does, kitty litter helps.
Just crack open the hose fittings slowly with a rag over it. If possible tie the hose ends above (higher) the reserve tank to minimize the siphoning effect.
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Old 04-20-2016, 11:06 AM   #6
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If you want to ensure there is no pressure, disconnect just the hydraulic pump motor's wire. Once that's disconnected cycle the switch up and down. You should hear just the valves clicking. This should allow the pressure to equalize. You'll still get some drips, just have some rags ready and tie the lines up so the fluid doesn't run out.
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Old 04-20-2016, 11:23 AM   #7
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Knowing where the tank probably is and where the lines are, I doubt that you will be able to tie the lines above the tank level. Pull the lines and let 'em drain.
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Old 04-20-2016, 11:48 AM   #8
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Thanks for all your comments and suggestions. (although my confidence hasn't improved any)

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Old 04-20-2016, 12:05 PM   #9
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You'll be fine Ed! Tear into it! It's not like you're cutting a hole in the side of it! (That took some courage). 😀


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Old 04-20-2016, 07:51 PM   #10
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I suggest using a motor oil catch pan or some such to collect the fluid that does come out. That way you don't make too much of a mess. Do have the kitty litter on hand in case Mr. Murphy shows up. Oh, and Mr Murphy will ensure that the hydraulic oil will jump all over you, so old clothes or coveralls would be in order.
Good luck and be careful out there.

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Old 04-21-2016, 12:09 AM   #11
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If your system uses springs to pull the jacks up, there's probably little if any pressure in the lines when the jacks are up. If there's no springs, then your system uses pressure to both lower and raise the jacks and there will always be fluid under thousands of pounds of pressure somewhere in the system. If yours use hydraulic pressure to raise the jacks, you need to relieve the pressure before removing any of the lines.

Check the hydraulic control uint for one of two things that will let you bleed off pressure.
1. A "quick flush port" - if you find one, you can loosen it from the housing and relieve the pressure in the system.

2. manual controls on the solenoids that allow you to open them up. You can use this to relieve pressure if there's a path for the fluid to return to the resevoir. As already recommended, disconnecting the pump and cycling the switch a few times should relieve the presssure but i wouldn't guarantee it will.

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Old 04-21-2016, 10:50 AM   #12
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PMSHERMAN,

I have an upper and lower line to the ram in the landing leg, I imagine that indicates that the hydraulics raise and lower the leg. You also mentioned a manual control on the solenoid, I believe the hex nut on the end of my solenoid on the leg is likely such a control. If so, could I not shut off the flow to the ram by shutting it down?

Ed
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Old 04-21-2016, 11:19 AM   #13
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The following link should take you to the LCI site and you will be able to print out the LCI procedure for replacing the landing gear cylinder
http://www.lci1.com/assets/content/s..._Cylinders.pdf

Hope this helps with the confidence to proceed.
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Old 04-24-2016, 09:47 AM   #14
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For safety's sake I would hitch up to your TV to support the camper while making the repair. I'm not a huge fan of relying on blocks to steady your camper. It could start to wobble while wrenching and down it'll go without warning and possibly crush you. I have no knowledge of hydraulics but I would guessing that the other "good" landing gear leg may not support any weight once you start opening hydraulic lines.
Good luck and be safe!!


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Old 04-24-2016, 02:27 PM   #15
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Once you break the first line on the landing, the other one is useless. It will not support anything. A good blocking system under the frame would more than suffice. Only talking 2-3k pounds. I do this with 10's of thousands of pounds all the time.


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Old 04-24-2016, 05:02 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by edshirl View Post
PMSHERMAN,

I have an upper and lower line to the ram in the landing leg, I imagine that indicates that the hydraulics raise and lower the leg. You also mentioned a manual control on the solenoid, I believe the hex nut on the end of my solenoid on the leg is likely such a control. If so, could I not shut off the flow to the ram by shutting it down?

Ed
The only way I know to minimize pressure in the system is to start with the jacks up and lower them part way. There will only be enough pressure in the system to move the jacks.

An opened (unscrew it from the fitting) quick flush valve will allow pressure to bleed off. You can catch the fluid in a bucket.

Phil
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