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Old 10-27-2015, 01:07 PM   #11
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When we are at full hookups, we do the same and turn on the gas switch before we shower and then off immediately afterwards. This extends the time before you get a cold shower. If two people are showering, we allow 10 minutes between showers to assist with recovery.
An upgrade to the oxygenics showerhead is a must. Stock showerhead sucks.
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WestCoast. What model Oxygenics do you have. I'm looking to upgrade.
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Old 10-27-2015, 04:15 PM   #12
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Girard Tankless Water Heater

I love our tankless. You just have to learn how to use it correctly (don't turn on cold, slower flow means hotter water, etc)
You just have to be careful that you only camp where there is sufficient water pressure. Safety mechanism will turn off the gad if flow is too small.
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Old 10-27-2015, 06:09 PM   #13
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I have a TT and replaced my 6 gal HW heater with a Truma continuous HW heater.

Yes, you need a sewer connection to get rid of the extra water, but definitely beats a Navy shower and worth it.

When I've had to, I can take a Navy shower. But all the other times a nice shower is worth it. I never ran out of HW. The Truma also works using the FW pump and on 12 volts. No problems when I spent a couple nights in a Walmart parking lot.
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Old 10-28-2015, 10:28 AM   #14
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Thank you everyone for your input and advice. I am definitely going to be looking into replacing and the feed back has helped me get a better idea of questions to look into and routes to take. Much appreciated
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Old 10-28-2015, 11:57 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WestCoastRV'er View Post
When we are at full hookups, we do the same and turn on the gas switch before we shower and then off immediately afterwards. This extends the time before you get a cold shower. If two people are showering, we allow 10 minutes between showers to assist with recovery.
An upgrade to the oxygenics showerhead is a must. Stock showerhead sucks.
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.
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X2 on the oxygenics shower head. I also changed the faucet over to a single handled one. I feel that I can get it to temp and reduce flow with this setup. I found that we can get 3 showers on about 7-8 gal of water. Lp will give you a quicker recovery time than electric
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Old 10-28-2015, 05:57 PM   #16
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Our 2012 Wildcat came equipped with a Girrard tankless. We had a heck of a time getting it to work correctly. Our dealer work real closely with Girrard about our issues. Two things came to light. #1 due to the long run from the tank to the kitchen sink we could nearly fill the galley holding tank trying to get the water hot enough to wash dishes.

At the same time it was impossible to control the temp in the shower without scalding ourselves. Ultimately Girrard authorized a replacement to an upgraded modle. This one temperature overide setting allowing us the increase beyond the originial limits. (15-25 degree max increase )

One thing to consider is they only heat the water to a fixed increase range beyond the temp of the incoming water. ie 60 degree water would only heat to 75 to 80 degrees resulting in very cool showers. WARNING!! if the incoming water is colder, then the heated water is also cooler.

With the newer modle we are able to do what we need to comfortably take care of our needs. I understand there may be a 3rd generation tankless heater from Girrard that is even better than what we have.

I'll leave you with: Do your home work, see and test a working system in action if possible. Consider the impact on your other equipment (holding tanks) and then do whats best for you.

Good Luck.
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Old 11-01-2015, 11:12 AM   #17
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I know Im late to the party and you already have some great advice.
You said you are new to campers, are you sure the winterizing diverter valve is closed? If its not closed youíll get warm water.
A MOD many do is to trade out the stock high temp thermal couple to a higher rated one, this is fairly easy and much cheaper. If you raise your temp by 5 deg you could possibly get 20% more shower time. This MOD will not help with recovery time.
Another trick I do is to put a small portable heater in the bathroom so I am nice and toasty while turning off the water during the Military Shower.
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Old 11-01-2015, 01:09 PM   #18
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YoungKopernik, just reminded me about another possible issue. Check that your outside showers is turned off at the faucets and not just at the end of the shower head.

This can also allow mixing of hot and cold water.
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Old 11-01-2015, 01:21 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YoungKopernik View Post
I know Im late to the party and you already have some great advice.
You said you are new to campers, are you sure the winterizing diverter valve is closed? If its not closed youíll get warm water.
A MOD many do is to trade out the stock high temp thermal couple to a higher rated one, this is fairly easy and much cheaper. If you raise your temp by 5 deg you could possibly get 20% more shower time. This MOD will not help with recovery time.
Another trick I do is to put a small portable heater in the bathroom so I am nice and toasty while turning off the water during the Military Shower.
Campers are Fun
John
j

Two cents from me:

1. I would be wary of having a small ( I'm assuming electric) heater in any bathroom,especially a small RV one. Just too many ways to have an accident.

2. The "Navy" shower is just another reason I'm glad I joined the Air Force. Nice dormitory rooms with unlimited hot water.:
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Old 11-04-2015, 05:59 AM   #20
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