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Old 01-08-2016, 10:44 AM   #1
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Tank switch position, heater won't run

The temperatures finially got cold, 8 to 15 degrees this past week. My electric heater couldn't keep up so the furnace was running. Went out to check the trailer yesterday and found it was 31 degrees outside, 66 inside, so checked the furnace and it wouldn't run, so checked the propane and of course found the tanks empty. That didn't surprise me, shpuld have been keeping an eye on them. After all, I do have guages on the tanks. No big deal, pull them and go get them filled.

Put the full tanks in but the furnace won't fire up. I lit the range and all three burners lit right up with no delay. This told me there was gas in the line but let them run for a couple of minutes to be sure. Shut the furnace off and turned the thermostat all the way down. Faited 5 minutes or so and turned the stat up and the heat switch back on. Still nothing. I mean nothing, can't hear the ignitor firing or anything else happening. Of course the fan is not running either. Flipped the stat switches back and forth a few times in case there was any corrosion on them but again, nothing! Checked to be sure we turned the tanks on, I did, Changed the selector switch to select the tank on the passenger side to open first. This is the tank I normally work from first.

I remember reading somewhere you need to change this otherwise you will be connected to the tank that went empty last. I wanted to be connected to the tank that went empty first, the passenger side tank. Lets call this tank number one.

So first question. Did I need to change that switch or could I have left it the way it was? This switch rotates 180 degrees, from west to east if that makes any sense. The west position appears to be the closest tank (passenger side) and east position is hooked up to the other hose (drivers side tank).

Second question, shouldnt I hear the blower (fan)running? I tried to get it to run in the AC position but I think it is too cold in the trailer for it to come on. Then again, the fan should run even with the AC/heat switch in the off position. It won't run no matter what. It is 34 outside and 69 inside so the furnace should be running.

This is an old analog type thermostat. Fan switches high / low, on /auto, AC / off/ heat positions.

Jim
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Old 01-08-2016, 10:50 AM   #2
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Have you removed the fuse for the furnace and replaced it. Once the furnace fails to fire three times it locks itself out and you have to cycle power to reset it.

I'd try that first if you haven't.
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Old 01-08-2016, 10:56 AM   #3
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You said the Stove Top is working so you can forget about the Propane Issue! Check your 12V fuses on your Furnace! Youroo!!
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Old 01-08-2016, 11:42 AM   #4
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I knew I forgot to mention something. I checked for power on the thermostat. I have 7.7 VDC at one terminal and 13.0 VDC (on shore power right now) on two thermostat terminals.


Is there a fuse located at the furnace itself? Possible I guess but didn't see it when I checked the furnace wiring. Will have to look again.


Jim
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Old 01-08-2016, 11:48 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bama Rambler View Post
Have you removed the fuse for the furnace and replaced it. Once the furnace fails to fire three times it locks itself out and you have to cycle power to reset it.

I'd try that first if you haven't.
I know after three tries you need to do a reset. Shutting off at the thermostat for a few minutes and then turning back on will do that.

My problem is no power for the fan. If fan doesn't run the spark won't fire so burner won't light. Doing a reset won't help if the fan doesn't run.

Jim
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Old 01-08-2016, 11:50 AM   #6
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furnace reset

Hi you need to reset the furnace safety's. Turn the heat setting off on the thermostat. Now turn the heat switch back on. This will reset the electronic control module board safety's. The furnace should try to restart and clear the air from the gas line. It will try 3 times to start the burner and will lock out again if it dose not clear the air from the gas line to lite the furnace burner. It may take several try's of turning off the heat at the thermostat to clear the air out of the gas line to get furnace to lite.

Hope This Helps Tim
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Old 01-08-2016, 11:59 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by oldtool2 View Post
I know after three tries you need to do a reset. Shutting off at the thermostat for a few minutes and then turning back on will do that.

My problem is no power for the fan. If fan doesn't run the spark won't fire so burner won't light. Doing a reset won't help if the fan doesn't run.

Jim
Hi control board module has let some smoke out and will need to be replaced. Or you mentioned that you had only 7 vdc on one wire. Is this the white wire on the w terminal of the thermostat? This needs to have minimum of 9.5 volts dc to the control module board for it to operate. If this is true furnace will not start. Jump power from R to W at thermostat if furnace starts t stat has failed.

Hope This Helps Tim
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Old 01-08-2016, 02:00 PM   #8
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Here thread with similar issue......

Furnace won't run in Rockwood 8280WS
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Old 01-09-2016, 01:18 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by TimVWulp View Post
Hi control board module has let some smoke out and will need to be replaced. Or you mentioned that you had only 7 vdc on one wire. Is this the white wire on the w terminal of the thermostat? This needs to have minimum of 9.5 volts dc to the control module board for it to operate. If this is true furnace will not start. Jump power from R to W at thermostat if furnace starts t stat has failed.

Hope This Helps Tim
Can I ask what you are smoking? No one mentioned any smoke anywhere.

As for the voltage, it is right. It is the red wire and connected to the terminal marked +7.5 on the stat so it is right.

Jim
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Old 01-09-2016, 01:29 PM   #10
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I assume you are plugged in as you were running electric heat. You say you have less than 12V on the furnace power then that is your problem. The furnace and fridge have a safety feature that will not allow them to run if the 12V source is too low. Check your converter, the high current battery protection fuses and the battery. What is the voltage at the battery terminals. Is it possible there was a power surge/failure when you were away and a fuse blew.
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