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Old 12-11-2014, 11:18 AM   #2461
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I don't care what anyone say's if you buy a tow package it should come prewired and ready to go. No matter what controller you buy they also sell a prewired plug for different models. But now on the other hand when you buy a truck with an integrated trailer break system, I would hope that is ready to go after paying 50,000 plus.
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Old 12-11-2014, 11:27 AM   #2462
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Originally Posted by gljurczyk View Post
I don't care what anyone say's if you buy a tow package it should come prewired and ready to go. No matter what controller you buy they also sell a prewired plug for different models. But now on the other hand when you buy a truck with an integrated trailer break system, I would hope that is ready to go after paying 50,000 plus.
I tend to agree. If a truck comes with a "towing package" then ALL power should be connected all the way back to the trailer connector, even the 12v "live" feed (that this thread is referring to) for interior lights on cargo trailers and keeping the "trailer brake" battery charged in case of catastrophic hitch failure.
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Old 12-11-2014, 11:41 AM   #2463
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The gm fuse blocks come with fuses and relays pre-installed. Then you have to add a few of the optional ones. This is because its the same fuse block whether its for a 1/2ton v6 or a 1 ton diesel.
Its like alot of control modules after '07 or '08. Alot of vehicles or models share the same module and you have to have it programmed or "flashed" per the vin with the appropriate software for the application. Just saves on having multiple hard parts in inventory.
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Old 12-11-2014, 11:45 AM   #2464
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And heres a new ford harness (granted it was for a '14 taurus) i have in my stall. It came just like this, fuses relays and all. No special vin build or anything, just standard for the part#
Just an FYI of why.
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Old 12-11-2014, 11:46 AM   #2465
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And heres a new ford harness (granted it was for a '14 taurus) i have in my stall. It came just like this, fuses relays and all. No special vin build or anything, just standard for the part#
Just an FYI of why.
Sorry forgot the pic
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Old 12-11-2014, 01:23 PM   #2466
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The gm fuse blocks come with fuses and relays pre-installed. Then you have to add a few of the optional ones. This is because its the same fuse block whether its for a 1/2ton v6 or a 1 ton diesel..
On modern GMs, since 2006 I believe is the right year, you don't need to add anything. Just unwrap both wires (brake controller +12 and Bargeman +12) and stick the ring terminals on the correct posts. The fuses are already there. Which is why I said earlier it doesn't make sense why they leave them disconnected at the factory - it has to take more time/expense to wrap them up and stow them than to just connect them.
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Old 12-11-2014, 01:36 PM   #2467
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I'll test mine at lunch. MillerTime texted me some pics for how to do it and assured me that I won't die.

Otherwise, today's plan is to replace the lock nuts and u-bolts on my hitch. B&W sent them and new rubber feet free of charge.
With my Ram off, it was showing 12.6v at both the factory bumper-mount and the aftermarket in-bed mount.

As for that, the lock nuts on my B&W turned out to be a PITA. One of the lock nuts seized up and I ended up breaking the bolt to get it off. On the bright-side, that was my first broken bolt ever.
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Old 12-11-2014, 03:17 PM   #2468
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Originally Posted by ependydad View Post
With my Ram off, it was showing 12.6v at both the factory bumper-mount and the aftermarket in-bed mount.

As for that, the lock nuts on my B&W turned out to be a PITA. One of the lock nuts seized up and I ended up breaking the bolt to get it off. On the bright-side, that was my first broken bolt ever.
Good deal!!
And luck you on the first broke bolt!! Wish i could say the same!! Lol
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Old 12-11-2014, 03:20 PM   #2469
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Good deal!!
And luck you on the first broke bolt!! Wish i could say the same!! Lol
Fortunately this broken bolt worked to my advantage. It saved me from wrestling the nut the rest of the way off!

Now, I am a little curious what the voltage is with the engine running and/or after it's been running for a while (see if it drops after the engine's batteries are topped up).
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Old 12-11-2014, 03:24 PM   #2470
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Originally Posted by techntrek View Post
On modern GMs, since 2006 I believe is the right year, you don't need to add anything. Just unwrap both wires (brake controller +12 and Bargeman +12) and stick the ring terminals on the correct posts. The fuses are already there. Which is why I said earlier it doesn't make sense why they leave them disconnected at the factory - it has to take more time/expense to wrap them up and stow them than to just connect them.
Well i know we're not gonna solve anything here....but on gm trucks the fuse block and the harnesses come as different components. You remove the fuse cover, push in the 4 tabs and pull the 2 handles in and pull up, then push back down and the whole fuse block comes out of the lower carrier, where the indivdual harness end connectors are for every harness it feeds. They dont come as a whole assembly like that ford harness did i showed.

And we on here are an anomaly, in that we do tow. The average truck buyer isn't gonna ever tow anything that a power wire is gonna do anthing for, and most dont even know they need a controler to make trailer brakes work (of course unless it is the type that boat trailers and uhaul trailers use
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