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Old 07-09-2015, 04:09 PM   #4391
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Inside vent covers and windshield cover arrived yesterday for our 2300. It's the little things you know? Looking forward to not using the curtain as much.

My wife picked up some new backsplash material today. Might have a project tonight.
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Old 07-09-2015, 04:24 PM   #4392
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harderd View Post
What did you use to clean the roof?
The question should be, what did he use on the dirty half?
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Old 07-10-2015, 02:13 PM   #4393
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Bunch of things I've done over the last two days...
Cleaned and treated the roof with some rubber roof cleaner.
Added Plexiglas to the screen door to keep the door open while the A/C is running... I used velco to hold it in place so it can be removed.


After our last trip our site was pretty open and the bathroom was always quite warm in the direct sun. So I added Refectix shades to my bathroom skylights. I ended up also making shades for the remaining windows in the trailer as well from the extra left over. I'll leave the ones in our daughter's window to keep her bunk dark and cool but the others I'll save for dry camping days. I was amazed how quick the temp dropped in the bathroom after adding the insulation.


Being 2.5 our daughter liked to use the propane detector as a step stool, even though she has a step stool. So to avoid it getting broken I moved it to under the ladder for the upper bunk. Covered the old home with a blank outlet cover.




Lastly I moved the thermostat onto the slide. It was originally mounted along the rear slide wall next to the top bunk. When the slide was in it could not reached and when the heat was running with the slide in it never would read right and made the trailer a 100 degrees before it would resister a temp change. Used a 1/4" mono jack mounted on the wall and a 1/4" mono plug with lamp cord to move it to the slide molding. Used some command strips to hold it in place.




Whoo.. Okay I think that is enough for now.
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Old 07-10-2015, 03:04 PM   #4394
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Since our ramp is always down when we are camping (for the dogs) it bothered me that there was no sealant around the joint between the frame and the rubber surface.I had visions of water intrusion and since the majority of the ramp structure is plywood, swelling was sure to result.So,I taped off the metal frame and applied a bead of 3M 5200 all around it. This stuff is very slow to cure and will actually wick into a joint.
Then I began the ugly task of applying 3M rubberized undercoating to all exposed frame and sub-structure under the trailer.It hasnt started to rust yet but I know over the winter it will get rusty and start shedding the sparse powder coat,then its too late to deal with it.I used 6 16 oz cans to get back as far as the front axel.That will have to do for a while since we will be back on the road sunday am.
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Old 07-10-2015, 03:08 PM   #4395
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Old 07-10-2015, 06:35 PM   #4396
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Quote:
Lastly I moved the thermostat onto the slide. It was originally mounted along the rear slide wall next to the top bunk. When the slide was in it could not reached and when the heat was running with the slide in it never would read right and made the trailer a 100 degrees before it would resister a temp change. Used a 1/4" mono jack mounted on the wall and a 1/4" mono plug with lamp cord to move it to the slide molding. Used some command strips to hold it in place.
doc: the T-stat has 5-6 wires for the heat, A/C, fan, etc. How are you making it work with a 2-wire mono plug?
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Old 07-10-2015, 08:02 PM   #4397
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Old 07-10-2015, 08:04 PM   #4398
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Doc73 did you buy those Refectix shades like that or cut them to fit and how did you attach them to the skylight?
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Old 07-10-2015, 10:51 PM   #4399
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlambert View Post
Could you please post a thread on how you wired this. I need to do a 50a RV myself.


Tim
First I installed a double 50a breaker in my service panel. Dont do any of this unless you have 200a service to your home.from that double 50 I ran 6-3 wg 62 ft in the crawl space to the rear of the carport,where the old 30a rv plug was. #6 copper is good for 55a at 100' or more. I came thru the wall and terminated the 6-3wg in a 3 pole disconnect. I used the disconnect first because I already had it,and second because when you come out of the crawl you must transition to conduit,which will require a splice into #6 copper single conducter and a disconnect is a good way to do it.You could also use a 12 x 12 pvc box and Polaris connecters but I wanted a disconnect outside,not just in the house at the panel and by the time you buy the polaris connecters and the box you can buy a diconnect for the same or less money.I then ran 1" pvc conduit to the front of the carport with a red,white,black,and bare #6 wires in it to where my recepticals will be.

I have to go away for a few minutes,will be back.
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Old 07-10-2015, 11:03 PM   #4400
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