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Old 01-10-2016, 11:54 AM   #5991
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Yesterdays project was visiting Woodstock at storage yard, pairing up my Honda 2000's and letting them run, changed the thermostat as the lcd screen didn't like getting zapped by static electricity, finished running LED lights in cabinets, and removed bat wing antenna and replace with the sensar King jack head.


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Old 01-10-2016, 11:59 AM   #5992
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Originally Posted by HONDAMAN174 View Post
Yesterdays project was visiting Woodstock at storage yard, pairing up my Honda 2000's and letting them run, changed the thermostat as the lcd screen didn't like getting zapped by static electricity, finished running LED lights in cabinets, and removed bat wing antenna and replace with the sensar King jack head.


2014 Evo 2850 "Woodstock"
2011 Toyota Tundra "Clifford"
So, how did the Honds work out
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Old 01-10-2016, 03:47 PM   #5993
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Took about 6 pulls each to get them going as it has been about 3 months since I had run them. Tried to load them up by turning on all the lights but I had switched to led so was only pulling 5 amps. Was able to run a/c for about 10 minutes before it got to below 55 degrees inside and shut off. I usually only take one unit with me when camping but always ready to pair up in emergency.


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2011 Toyota Tundra "Clifford"
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Old 01-10-2016, 04:40 PM   #5994
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This July I moved into a $200,000 house. I pulled the dishwasher out to see if there was an outlet there so I could easily add a disposal to the sink, not only is the dishwasher hard wired, which is stupid, but the scene under the dishwasher was a pile of sawdust, nails, two random chunks of 2X4.

So the workmanship and attention to detail isn't lacking in just the RV world.
Bought my house in 1983 (it was 12 yrs old then). Remodeled the kitchen before I moved in. Pulled the range hood down and discovered that the duct went up into the soffet and stopped. Well, that explained the greasy rings around all my electrical outlet face plates!!.

Went into the attic to extend the duct for the new range hood outside and thought, where's the duct for the bathroom fan? Of course, there wasn't one. That explained the peeling wall paper in the bathroom!!!!

First winter was -26 deg F. Outside corner of my family room had ice in it. Next summer I replaced the paneling in the room and discovered they'd put NO insulation in the corner.

So I'm pretty darn happy with my Micro Lite!!! No real issues at this point.
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Old 01-11-2016, 12:19 AM   #5995
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Originally Posted by PhoneDude 8289 View Post
Don't see why you couldn't add a duplex box & plug right next to the dw junction. Piggy back the dw wiring.
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The reason the dishwasher AND the garbourator are hardwired by code is because both are situated near a water source. Having a duplex plug outlet could/would be suceptible to spraying water and short out.

It's for your protection!
I'm thinking about adding a junction box and hardwiring the disposal in with the DW. I probably should look into local code to see if that's okay.
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Old 01-11-2016, 05:02 AM   #5996
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I'm thinking about adding a junction box and hardwiring the disposal in with the DW. I probably should look into local code to see if that's okay.
That would work and still pass code, as long as the wire and breaker to the dish washer is big enough. Common installation would be to tie in a junction box to a wall switch to operate the disposal. then to a duplex under the sink that the disposal would then plug into. If you look at the DW connection the box is built in where your 110 volt connects. I know of no code that requires a home run for a dishwasher or garbage disposal. In most cases they use the same circuit. So really you would be adding a switch in the wall or face of the sink cabinet to a duplex that you plug the garbage disposal in so you can turn it on when needed. I would bet that the DW is on a 15 amp breaker now. If your worried about water hitting the duplex just use a GFI for your disposal plug....
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Old 01-11-2016, 05:29 AM   #5997
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Started out cleaning out the back flow preventer on the water pump but ended up spending four hours shortening the heat duct and creating more room. I was able to cut off 4' on each of the four flexible and eliminating the duct spaghetti mess. Spray foamed all floor openings and moved three walls 6" back creating more room in what was wasted space.

Today I'm adding a 120 volt outlet in the hallway that I be able to plug into the 120 v 20 amp pedestal given us more power while on a 30 amp circuit.
I bet your getting better air flow to now. Good for you. It seems that the factory thinks one size fits all, it's all pre made and they will use the same pre made up design if your unit is a 32' or a 38' which creates that mess and low air flows. ..
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Old 01-11-2016, 10:14 AM   #5998
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Originally Posted by rockfordroo View Post
Bought my house in 1983 (it was 12 yrs old then). Remodeled the kitchen before I moved in. Pulled the range hood down and discovered that the duct went up into the soffet and stopped. Well, that explained the greasy rings around all my electrical outlet face plates!!.

Went into the attic to extend the duct for the new range hood outside and thought, where's the duct for the bathroom fan? Of course, there wasn't one. That explained the peeling wall paper in the bathroom!!!!

First winter was -26 deg F. Outside corner of my family room had ice in it. Next summer I replaced the paneling in the room and discovered they'd put NO insulation in the corner.

So I'm pretty darn happy with my Micro Lite!!! No real issues at this point.
Speaking of codes. Your exhaust piping for your hood fan and bath fan if it runs in the attic should be insulated as well otherwise escaping heat meeting cold air will cause condensation and drip back to your device causing wet areas.
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Old 01-11-2016, 07:10 PM   #5999
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Trying to figure out what is wrong with this piece of $%#@ Onan QE 5500 EVAP GEN. It worked just fine when I bought the RV but about 6 months later it would not start from inside of the RV so I took it to the Onan dealer, they got it so it would start from inside, but now it will not run the AC,( which it did before) and I have to play with it to get it to run the Microwave. They said it needed to be run (that's when it had 150 hrs now it has 482 hrs) and it still runs the same. Sometimes it runs OK when there is no load, but with a load it starts bobbling and popping. Sometimes it starts then runs a minute or two, then shuts down, sometimes it runs a couple of seconds and shuts down, then sometimes it will run for hours. It is driving me up a wall. Saturday I when out to boondock and I could not keep it running for more than 15 seconds and it would shut down, so I had to go back to the RV park, today I started it and it did the something. So I drove to town to get some parts, and when I got back with the parts I tried starting it and it running, like it normally runs. it been running for an hour and a half now. I am think about pulling it out and in stalling solar panels on the roof and installing batteries where the gen. is at now, and install an inverter, for the 120 volt ac.
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Old 01-11-2016, 07:17 PM   #6000
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Speaking of codes. Your exhaust piping for your hood fan and bath fan if it runs in the attic should be insulated as well otherwise escaping heat meeting cold air will cause condensation and drip back to your device causing wet areas.
It is.
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