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Old 09-09-2016, 11:54 AM   #8721
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Opened up interiors of both A/C systems to have a look around. I'm generally happy with what I found. The ductwork in the roof is well sealed and solid. No noticeable gaps where I'm losing cooled air.

The factory tried to seal the ducts past the rearmost vents, but didn't really use enough foam, so I added a bit more to close them up tight.

The unit in the front bedroom was a bit more interesting. First, I didn't know that it had a little heater attached to it, so that's nice. Second, it was actually hooked into the ducting system for the rear unit as well. I don't think that's necessary as the controller for the front unit is in the bedroom and with the door closed, losing cool air to the rear of the unit is inefficient. I built some blocker plates for the inside of the unit and taped them in. Now it should just cool the front room.

There are also vents from the ducted rear unit in the front bedroom. I blocked off the ductwork past them as I now have no need for the extended front ducts as they are blocked from the front unit. So the rear ducted unit can blow to all the rooms and the front unit is now just for the front bedroom.

Oh. And I noticed while looking around that one of the bedroom lights is cut into the AC duct that I just isolated. Another heat source in the AC eliminated.

Whee!
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Old 09-09-2016, 12:28 PM   #8722
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TT related, replace the rear underseat storage bin on my 2016 F250 with the old-style cargo tray. Much better allocation of floor space.
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2014 Salem Hemisphere 282RK 8k lbs loaded, Equal-i-zer WDH, TST 507 TPMS
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Old 09-09-2016, 01:54 PM   #8723
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While I'm here at work, DW cleaned up all the mouse droppings we found in it last night. And I'll be tracing the wiring to find out why we have no 120VAC power getting to the PI EMS. We parked it after our last trip on August 5th and had planned to use it this weekend. I bought some Fresh Cab and we also got some peppermint oil to try. I'll be putting out some traps with peanut butter tonight. Also need to try to seal up any potential entry points.
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Old 09-09-2016, 02:59 PM   #8724
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Building a motor driven flagpole
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Old 09-09-2016, 07:04 PM   #8725
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bob caldwell View Post
Building a motor driven flagpole
Like a large scale power antenna?
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Old 09-09-2016, 07:07 PM   #8726
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Telescopic....bout 14 1/2' extended
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Old 09-09-2016, 07:09 PM   #8727
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Waiting on UPS to deliver last piece...this is the motor assmyClick image for larger version

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Old 09-10-2016, 12:19 AM   #8728
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Interesting Bob. I'll be lookin out for this when it's complete.
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Old 09-10-2016, 06:03 AM   #8729
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Evil4U View Post
Opened up interiors of both A/C systems to have a look around. I'm generally happy with what I found. The ductwork in the roof is well sealed and solid. No noticeable gaps where I'm losing cooled air.

The factory tried to seal the ducts past the rearmost vents, but didn't really use enough foam, so I added a bit more to close them up tight.

The unit in the front bedroom was a bit more interesting. First, I didn't know that it had a little heater attached to it, so that's nice. Second, it was actually hooked into the ducting system for the rear unit as well. I don't think that's necessary as the controller for the front unit is in the bedroom and with the door closed, losing cool air to the rear of the unit is inefficient. I built some blocker plates for the inside of the unit and taped them in. Now it should just cool the front room.

There are also vents from the ducted rear unit in the front bedroom. I blocked off the ductwork past them as I now have no need for the extended front ducts as they are blocked from the front unit. So the rear ducted unit can blow to all the rooms and the front unit is now just for the front bedroom.

Oh. And I noticed while looking around that one of the bedroom lights is cut into the AC duct that I just isolated. Another heat source in the AC eliminated.

Whee!
By isolating Both A/C units "Front and Back" will you NOT be Cooling a Area of your unit if you are at a C/G that Only has "30A Service"? Youroo!!
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Old 09-10-2016, 03:01 PM   #8730
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evereddie View Post
Because of LEDs you would be surprised how long a 12 volt lantern battery would last. For situations where there is no 12 volt power near, tuck a 12 volt lantern battery near and wire to that. I've use it for several mods and it's great. Just don't leave the door open.
This is a great tip. Prevents you from fishing wire all over the trailer too!
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