What did you do to your camper today?

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by Nick Danger

Pardon my ignorance; but, isn't that connection between those 2 products supposed to be intended for "outside"? (i.e. weatherproof?) I don't understand the need to cover them?

Voice of experience here--one of many, actually.

On the trailer I'm restoring, I had a 30-amp plug-receptacle connection under the trailer. Wasn't drawing much current--an idle converter and a dehumidifier that drew maybe 8 amps when it ran. The connection was out of the way of direct rainfall, and raised off the ground, so water couldn't run along the cable and get into the connection.

Tarnishing occured--on the neutral connection as it happened. Resistance on the connection increased, causing more power dissipation and heat at the connection. Arcing may have occurred, increasing the resistance. Eventually, the blade of the plug burned completely off. I've posted the pictures. They look like everybody else's.

It seems to be a fact of life. Not sure anyone can guarantee it won't happen to them.

[chriscowles]

Earlier this week, on the very last day of a 3 month road trip, I changed a blowout on the side of I-95. It was the only tire problem of the entire trip. I am unaware of hitting a road hazard. Speed and temperatures are unlikely to have been a factor.

I didn't hear it or feel it due to road noise and the windows being closed. Had I not been warned by the TPMS and pulled off the road, I would have had 2 blowouts when the other tire failed from being overloaded.

That one tire was 4# low on air in the morning before we left, which may have been a clue there was a potential problem. (I reinflated it to 65 before we left.) On all previous days there was no pressure loss except as related to low outdoor temps.

[ChrisPBacon]

Originally Posted by DJ252

With temps in the 50s this a.m. decided to test the furnace and give it that first time burn, with the vents open, to get the fumes out.

Worked perfectly but discovered something I can't believe I missed before.

On 2023 and at least 2022 models, there was a heating vent in the bedroom. Never noticed and never occurred to me that they'd omitted that in 2024.

No idea if by design or omission. No problem in these temps but colder?

I'll make a couple calls come Mon.

Are you sure they didn’t put flooring over it?

[DJ252]

Originally Posted by ChrisPBacon

Are you sure they didn’t put flooring over it?

Yeah, they haven't had floor vents in any Surveyor for several years. at least.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by ChrisPBacon

Are you sure they didn’t put flooring over it?

Actually, this could never happen.

The sequence for building a trailer is:

• Get raw frame.
• Put decking on it. Usually plywood but for a short series of years it was an inch of styrofoam with a 3/16" luan plywood layer on each side. Decking extends to the full width of the trailer, e.g., 102 inches.
• Cover the decking right to the edges with rollout "linoleum" vinyl flooring. This may have a 1/8" layer of foam backing. No adhesive is used. Air staples (18 ga.?) are used around the periphery.
• If carpeting is to be installed, it will be rolled out, full width, atop the vinyl flooring. (In the Cherokee 38P, the carpeting is full width at the front, cut away at the entrance area and cooking area, gone at the walk-through lavatory, and resumes, full width at the rear bedroom. Areas where the carpeting terminates are fastened with air staples.)
• Outer walls, partitions, and cabinets are placed directly onto the linoleum (and carpet if present). As cabinets and partitions are installed, a row of air staples is installed where they are to be placed.

The point of this sequence is to show that when the ducts are placed, holes are cut through the entire sandwich at once: Carpet, vinyl, plywood or sandwich. The situation of a duct and hole in the plywood but not in the vinyl doesn't exist.

[ChrisPBacon]

Originally Posted by Larry-NC

Actually, this could never happen.

The sequence for building a trailer is:

• Get raw frame.
• Put decking on it. Usually plywood but for a short series of years it was an inch of styrofoam with a 3/16" luan plywood layer on each side. Decking extends to the full width of the trailer, e.g., 102 inches.
• Cover the decking right to the edges with rollout "linoleum" vinyl flooring. This may have a 1/8" layer of foam backing. No adhesive is used. Air staples (18 ga.?) are used around the periphery.
• If carpeting is to be installed, it will be rolled out, full width, atop the vinyl flooring. (In the Cherokee 38P, the carpeting is full width at the front, cut away at the entrance area and cooking area, gone at the walk-through lavatory, and resumes, full width at the rear bedroom. Areas where the carpeting terminates are fastened with air staples.)
• Outer walls, partitions, and cabinets are placed directly onto the linoleum (and carpet if present). As cabinets and partitions are installed, a row of air staples is installed where they are to be placed.

The point of this sequence is to show that when the ducts are placed, holes are cut through the entire sandwich at once: Carpet, vinyl, plywood or sandwich. The situation of a duct and hole in the plywood but not in the vinyl doesn't exist.

I was being facetious. Yanno… snarky?

[Eagle-751]

Replaced the shower head and kitchen faucet, the shower head to get more water flow for the new water heater and the kitchen faucet was leaking at the aerator started to spray out a little. But went well and easy to do.

[AudiDudi]

Sanded and painted the EZ Tow Dolly.

[Richard Dietzen]

Originally Posted by ChrisPBacon

I was being facetious. Yanno… snarky?

Larry’s detailed description was great though, wasn’t it.

[Bob K4TAX]

Originally Posted by Nick Danger

Pardon my ignorance; but, isn't that connection between those 2 products supposed to be intended for "outside"? (i.e. weatherproof?) I don't understand the need to cover them?

I agree. I don't cover the point where the cord from the trailer and the 30A RV cord connect. But I position them so they don't end up in a puddle of water. Use a rock chock, block, piece of firewood, or whatever is available.

Bob

[Boomerweps]

I added the remote display to my EPEver Solar controller and remounted the controller to the front wall in the storage. Have yet to decide on the remote display location.

[Mike223]

Starting to remove the oxidation buildup on the front of my Wildwood TT. Bought a DA Polisher and Maguire Oxidation remover. Now to get started.
Mike

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by Richard Dietzen

Larry’s detailed description was great though, wasn’t it.

Thank you

The knowledge was gained by real-life deconstruction-reconstruction.

[NoBoGoat]

Dometic Penguin II 13.5k in ductless configuration.

Summary:
- Added sound deadening material.
- Relocated the junction/control box further into the airbox.
- Cleaned up the wires going to the junction/control box.
- Moved the divider from the mounting plate to the airbox.

This started out as verification that the divider between the intake/exhaust was installed. It was, but was poorly taped into place with gaps around the edges allowing for an "air short circuit". I also noticed the junction/control box was covering about 1/4 of the air intake and had a mess of wires.

As installed, the divider was attached to the mounting plate. I moved it up into the airbox using sound deadener to seal the edges. The divider still lines up with the bracket on the mounting plate. Covered the rest of the airbox with sound deadener.

Drilled a hole to move the junction box a bit more out of the path of the air intake and zip tied the wires into a tighter bundle. There wasn't enough slack on the yellow 120V wire to move the box completely out of the way.

Airflow seems to be much improved. The unit is still loud overall, but it seems like the tone/frequency of the noise is a bit lower. I did not take before/after noise or airflow measurements, so this is all completely subjective.

There is a metal tab on the exhaust side which is supposedly a shield for the heating option. I considered removing it, but for now I am going to leave it as is.

Edit - I did find one of the low voltage wires was not clamped into it's WAGO connector. The wire was in the connector, but the lever was flipped up. Corrected that.

[DJ252]

Originally Posted by NoBoGoat

Dometic Penguin II 13.5k in ductless configuration.

Summary:
- Added sound deadening material.
- Relocated the junction/control box further into the airbox.
- Cleaned up the wires going to the junction/control box.
- Moved the divider from the mounting plate to the airbox.

This started out as verification that the divider between the intake/exhaust was installed. It was, but was poorly taped into place with gaps around the edges allowing for an "air short circuit". I also noticed the junction/control box was covering about 1/4 of the air intake and had a mess of wires.

As installed, the divider was attached to the mounting plate. I moved it up into the airbox using sound deadener to seal the edges. The divider still lines up with the bracket on the mounting plate. Covered the rest of the airbox with sound deadener.

Drilled a hole to move the junction box a bit more out of the path of the air intake and zip tied the wires into a tighter bundle. There wasn't enough slack on the yellow 120V wire to move the box completely out of the way.

Airflow seems to be much improved. The unit is still loud overall, but it seems like the tone/frequency of the noise is a bit lower. I did not take before/after noise or airflow measurements, so this is all completely subjective.

There is a metal tab on the exhaust side which is supposedly a shield for the heating option. I considered removing it, but for now I am going to leave it as is.

Edit - I did find one of the low voltage wires was not clamped into it's WAGO connector. The wire was in the connector, but the lever was flipped up. Corrected that.

Nice job! I haven't done mine yet. On the list.

[Rick the Rocket]

Originally Posted by Sabriyyah

Just hooked up after 5 hour drive and the heater fan is on with the thermostat off? Anyone know what to do?

Earlier this year, my thermostat was turned all the way down but not off. You have to make an extra effort to get to the actual off position. If it is cool enough the furnace will run, if your LP is out or off the fan will run instead.

[AudiDudi]

Began the process of winterizing and loading up the RV to leave in a couple weeks. We trade Pine trees for Palm trees.

[moose074]

Originally Posted by AudiDudi

Began the process of winterizing and loading up the RV to leave in a couple weeks. We trade Pine trees for Palm trees.

Where are you that you need to winterize before leaving to the south

[Moho81]

Nothing fancy just some general maintenance done over the weekend. Sprayed the slide rails with WD40 Dry Lube then the slide seals with some 303. Put some tank conditioner in the black tank and the grey tank.

[AudiDudi]

Originally Posted by moose074

Where are you that you need to winterize before leaving to the south

"Winterizing" IS loading up the RV