Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 05-28-2015, 02:38 PM   #11
Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 23,938
Originally Posted by Sirwriter View Post
...We are full timers now, and the trailer sits on a concrete pad poured over red clay. At the ends, we run two ratchet straps over the top of the trailer to prevent the wind from rocking it. We also have four steel bands on the ends fastened to the frame via anchor lags. We don't have the rocking and rolling any more, but before we poured the pad, doing what the engineer suggested solved the majority of the problem.
You have a completely different situation with it sitting on concrete, but I would still not put jacks under the slide unless your jacks can and do support the trailer. If you have a flat tire, the jacks MUST keep the trailer from dropping, otherwise, the trailer will drop and the slide will not and damage the trailer. JMO.

OldCoot is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2015, 03:22 PM   #12
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: West Jordan, UT
Posts: 646
Originally Posted by pmsherman View Post
While I don't have that problem with my class A, I'd be concerned with balance if you know that there's very little weight on the jacks opposite the slide. This situation is a golden opportunity for the unit to tip over if a gust of wind hits it from the "wrong" side.

My recommendation is that you get a supplemental hand jack that can be placed under the outer wall of a slide. Install this jack after the slide is extended and add a reminder to your "prepare to leave" checklist to remove it before pulling in the slide. You might need a board under the slide to distribute the support point force across a larger area than the top of the jack.

I would never put a support under the slide! If you talk to FR they will advise you not to, and I was told if you do and damage occurs it will not be covered. My dealer sells slide supports but when asked he advised against them too. Even a search of the forum shows most people think it is a bad idea, I am not one to just follow the crowd but a sanity check tells me it isnt a good idea and why even consider it.The only time I would think it was acceptable is if you had the frame blocked in a permanent situation then it might be ok. But why? The TT was designed to support itself.

As for tipping over I am wondering what actual conditions would have to exist for that to happen? 60+ MPH winds on an un-stabilized TT, I do not even know if that would do it????? Seems like bad advice to me and after thinking about it, I cannot fathom a feasible situation where it would be blown over other than a hurricane or tornado, which you have a bigger problem anyway and a slide support would not help in any case.

What is your logic or experience in making that statement pmsherman? Am I thinking wrongly?

2015 Forest River EVO 2850
2012 Dodge Ram 2500 6.7 Cummins
Yamaha 2k x 2 with parallel cable
EMS 30 PI portable w/ Edison plug

Nights Camped (2016-13) (2015-13)
SuicideSaints is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2015, 03:28 PM   #13
Somewhat right of center
Crabbyguy's Avatar
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 258
I always do all the jacks first.
2014 Crusader 260RLD Champagne Touring Edition
2013 Silverado 2500 6.0 HD
Crabbyguy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2015, 04:47 PM   #14
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Southeast Texas
Posts: 50
By the way, do you guys set your levels on the floor or counter top, bumper, what? to call "level"?
jrmartin67 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2015, 04:55 PM   #15
Senior Member
themounties's Avatar
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Moundsville Wv
Posts: 1,195
We set ours right on the floor where you open the door
2003 Duramax
2010 Blue Ridge
1 DW
1 mutt
on occasion 1 DD
themounties is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2015, 05:31 PM   #16
Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 23,938
Originally Posted by jrmartin67 View Post
By the way, do you guys set your levels on the floor or counter top, bumper, what? to call "level"?
Leveled the floor and then adjusted the big level on the front and never used the level on the floor or anything else again. Also leveled front to back and likewise adjusted the big level on the front. Nothing is that critical as to having to have the trailer perfectly level in all directions and spending an excess amount of time getting that last 1/8" on a 2' level. JMO
OldCoot is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2015, 05:57 PM   #17
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Santa Teresa, NM
Posts: 26
I use the Andersen 3604 Camper Levelers( ). Once set up properly, they work like a charm. Donít pay attention to their method of leveling. Youíll need a level for use inside the trailer, a trailer level indicator to mount on the front of the trailer that you can easily see in your truckís rear view mirror, and a good assistant.

First, disconnect the weight distribution bars then extend your slides. I level my Flagstaff V-Lite by the stove top. Place the level on the stove top to level side to side and determine which side needs to be raised. Place the Andersen levelers under the wheels of the side to be raised. With your assistant in the trailer and you on cell phones, begin pulling the trailer up onto the levelers. Stop when your assistant tells you itís level. Set parking brake and put truck in Park, and chock the levelers.
Pull in the slides, extend the stabilizers, and extend the slides again. Recheck the level and door swings. If no adjustments need to be made pull in the slides and retract the stabilizers.
Now attach the trailer level indicator (I use the Digital Level Lite so I can see it at night) so that it indicates the trailer is level. Unhitch the trailer and level it front to rear.
Extend stabilizers, then the slides, and you should be pretty darn level.
Now the next time you pull into an RV Park, disconnect the WD bars, look at the level you mounted to determine which side needs to be raised, place the Andersen levelers under the side that needs raising, and pull the trailer as far as needed until level is indicated. Drop stabilizers and extend slides.
All for $100.00 mas o menos.
2011 Flagstaff V-Lite 30 WRLS
2007 F250 SD
chasbo70 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2015, 06:11 PM   #18
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 244
Jacks first, then slides.
Marcel & Jenne
Kemptville, ON
2014 Rockwood 8282WS
2015 Ford F150 Eco-Boost
BusyRetirees is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2015, 06:12 PM   #19
Senior Member
satdog01's Avatar
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Franklin, TN
Posts: 313
Jacks down first! Changed over to 6x8 Pressure treated blocks, 16 inches long. Less weight and since have stapled a short piece of yellow rope in a loop to each block. Loop is long enough to prevent having to get under TV when breaking camp. Carry 6 blocks in case I need the extra height on one end of trailer. Two more blocks for tongue jack.
Marriot2 on Wheels 2017 Flagstaff Classic 832 OKBS
2013 GMC Denali 6.6L 2500 HD DMAX w\Alison Trans
Pepper Pomeranian rescue 101 days as camping buddy
Days camped in FR, 2011 = 20, 2012 = 57, 2013 = 59
... 2014 = 39, 2015 = 52, 2016 = 68, 3 more planned
Retired :
satdog01 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2015, 06:13 PM   #20
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,255
Jacks with 1/4" rise on the slide side, slide, then jacks again. I use external permanently mounted levels. I like to be able to see how much is needed where and by how much at a single glance.

The 1/4" is just MY rig though. Yours WILL vary. It's just what I've found that works for my rigs weight, slide, chocks, and jack config. After I've been trouncing around inside for awhile ground settling puts me about dead level.

Another vote on DO NOT PUT A JACK under your slide! If the winds are so bad that you're concerned about tipping over (hehehe.. ) you're better off to just turtle up.

rana is offline   Reply With Quote

jacks, slide

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by is not in any way associated with Forest River, Inc. or its associated RV manufacturing divisions.

Our Communities

Our communities encompass many different hobbies and interests, but each one is built on friendly, intelligent membership.

» More about our Communities

Automotive Communities

Our Automotive communities encompass many different makes and models. From U.S. domestics to European Saloons.

» More about our Automotive Communities

Marine Communities

Our Marine websites focus on Cruising and Sailing Vessels, including forums and the largest cruising Wiki project on the web today.

» More about our Marine Communities

Copyright 2002-2015 Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:55 AM.