Winterizing

[rvgolfer]

If i blow all the supply lines out w/air do i still have to pump in antifreeze. I will be adding it to all my traps. But if i blow out lines i don't see the sense. And i will be removing the anoide rod and draining the W/H.

[Bama Rambler]

As long as you're sure you have all the water out there's no use adding antifreeze. Don't forget to add a little to the toilet too. Just to keep the seal wet.

[tmmar]

sorry- I mis-read your post.

[MtnGuy]

Originally Posted by Bama Rambler

As long as you're sure you have all the water out there's no use adding antifreeze. Don't forget to add a little to the toilet too. Just to keep the seal wet.

Agree with Bama. But for me the question is, am I positive that I can get all of the water completely out ???

Scenario: There is a low point in my line somewhere. I blow air through the system, but it forms an air pocket over-top of the water in that section of pipe. I think I have all of the water out, but actually I don't. The water settles back into this area when the air stops blowing, and the I could have a problem.

For me, I open the low point drains, open the faucets 1 at a time to drain that line. I then cap the low point drains, and blow air (bicycle pump) through each faucet individually. I pump antifreeze through the system, and blow the air again. The antifreeze collects in the p-traps, so that is taken care of in the process. If there is a low spot in the water lines that has not blown entirely, it will now have antifreeze in it.

Oh yeah, I setup the water heater bypass valves 1st.

I do tend to be anal.

[threegr8katz]

when you say at some to the toilet you mean just pour a little in the bowl?

[2007Rockwood2601]

I don't get why everyone doesn't want to have some extra insurance by using some RV antifreeze. I can get my trailer done with 1 gallon with the water heater bypassed and the maybe 2 gallons on a larger trailer. Were talking $5 or $6 total. I blow it out with 50 PSI air then remove the water filter pump in some antifreeze with the t-valve I installed by the pump. Run till you see pink. Be sure to get some antifreeze in all the sinks and toilet bowl. Don't forget to push in the city water bypass valve under the screen were the hose hooks up. I use a small water bottle in place were the filter would be to take up some volume so I can get it done with less.

If you think you getting all the water out you might not be. I have blown the pink stuff then ran the water and guess what got more pink stuff.

[2007Rockwood2601]

Originally Posted by threegr8katz

when you say at some to the toilet you mean just pour a little in the bowl?

Yes you want to have some antifreeze in the toilet and all the sinks and bathtub traps. If you blow it out with air just pour some in. If you run it through the pipes you will have if from the pipes.

[SaskCampers]

Originally Posted by 2007Rockwood2601

I don't get why everyone doesn't want to have some extra insurance by using some RV antifreeze. I can get my trailer done with 1 gallon with the water heater bypassed and the maybe 2 gallons on a larger trailer. Were talking $5 or $6 total. I blow it out with 50 PSI air then remove the water filter pump in some antifreeze with the t-valve I installed by the pump. Run till you see pink. Be sure to get some antifreeze in all the sinks and toilet bowl. Don't forget to push in the city water bypass valve under the screen were the hose hooks up. I use a small water bottle in place were the filter would be to take up some volume so I can get it done with less.

If you think you getting all the water out you might not be. I have blown the pink stuff then ran the water and guess what got more pink stuff.

Totally agree and even my dealer suggests that blowing out the lines is the second best method compared to using RV antifreeze.

[Draytondave]

And dont forget the outside shower. :-)

[qmrichardson]

I asked the technician at my local RV shop what his thoughts were on the compressed air technique and he feels the air can blow right over the top of water sitting in low points. He also felt it was important to circulate the antifreeze because it needs to be inside the water pump as well... so I went back and re-did mine just to be safe.

[MtnGuy]

Originally Posted by qmrichardson

I asked the technician at my local RV shop what his thoughts were on the compressed air technique and he feels the air can blow right over the top of water sitting in low points. He also felt it was important to circulate the antifreeze because it needs to be inside the water pump as well... so I went back and re-did mine just to be safe.

Ah ha...... confirmation on my thinking in post #4.

[KyDan]

Some folks just use air and get by with it year after year.
I also believe that it would be possible for water to collect in
a low point and freeze even after blowing out.

I do both-- in my trailer there is a little "dead zone" in the
water heater bypass area. This short length of hose does not
get antifreeze when in bypass mode.

I drain my WH and leave the plug out.
I blow the system with air while the bypass is in normal use mode.
Then I switch to bypass mode and pump in RV antifreeze using
the onboard pump.

The whole process takes me 30 minutes and a gallon and just a tad
more of antifreeze.

In the spring we flush lines briefly and for the first couple of trips
we use a blue jug for fresh water for drinking and coffee.
After that, the minimal taste is gone and we can use the water
system for making coffee and drinking.

YMMV.

[The_Stuff]

id say air is an option but antifreeze would work for sure