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Old 07-08-2011, 03:43 PM   #1
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I'm here

Hi everyone,
Hope to learn some things here. Been camping just a few times so I'm pretty new to this.
I have a 2011 Flagstaff HW 27sc. I can't find this anywhere in the manuals(must be about 25 of them). Do I put the stabilizers down before or after I raise the roof?
Thanks,
Steve
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Old 07-08-2011, 04:04 PM   #2
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Seems only logical to have the rig stable and level before initiating anything involving mechanical movement. Now watch someone come along that knows what they are talking about and disprove my assumption.
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Old 07-08-2011, 04:07 PM   #3
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Pretty funny. But I was reading some posts that says some people say the door won't line up if you raise roof then put down stabs. others say same thing happens the other way around. Depending on what camper you have.
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Old 07-08-2011, 04:11 PM   #4
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If you don't see where anything will be damaged, try it both ways, and then you can be the expert though experience.
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Old 07-08-2011, 04:39 PM   #5
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We used to own a 2007 Fleetwood Niagara camper and the time of purchase were instructed by tech to do this:

- level side to side
- unhook from TV
- chock tires
- level front to back
- raise the roof
- pull out slide (if any)
- put stabs down
- sit down have beer (I added this but DW didn't know!)

I asked as to order of raising roof and stabs down and was told it prevents the cable hoists and corner posts from binding (and potentially snapping) by letting the box flex when roof it is on its way up. It worked well for us.
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Old 07-08-2011, 04:47 PM   #6
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our door would not close right on our former Fleetwood/Coleman unless you set up camp in a particular order, I think i put down stabilizers before i raised the roof.
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Old 07-08-2011, 05:06 PM   #7
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We have a Flagstaff 228d. Not the same camper but should be similar.

We were told to:
Level the camper side to side
Chock wheels and unhook from tow vehicle
Level front to back
Put down stabilizers

Now that you have a leveled foundation,
Raise the roof
Pull out the dinette canvas so the bunks don't snag it!
Pull out the bunks
Pull out the slide

The bunks rest on the slide out dinette, so it is the first thing in when closing the camper and the last thing out when opening. Always make sure your canvases are clear when sliding anything in or out or you may be repairing your canvases.

It is MUCH easier to pull out the bunks and put in the door when everything is square and stabile. Found that one out the hard way

Hope this helps
Happy camping and God bless
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Old 07-08-2011, 05:30 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frankm View Post
We used to own a 2007 Fleetwood Niagara camper and the time of purchase were instructed by tech to do this:

- level side to side
- unhook from TV
- chock tires
- level front to back
- raise the roof
- pull out slide (if any)
- put stabs down
- sit down have beer (I added this but DW didn't know!)

I asked as to order of raising roof and stabs down and was told it prevents the cable hoists and corner posts from binding (and potentially snapping) by letting the box flex when roof it is on its way up. It worked well for us.
I would suggest chocking tires before unhooking from TV but I'm no expert. Since chocking helps to prevent tires from moving it make sense to have them in place when disconnecting from the TV. Just sharing my two cents worth...
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Old 07-09-2011, 11:48 AM   #9
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Quote:
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I would suggest chocking tires before unhooking from TV but I'm no expert. Since chocking helps to prevent tires from moving it make sense to have them in place when disconnecting from the TV. Just sharing my two cents worth...
I have found that it is much easier to couple and de-couple the hitch if the trailer can move slightly forward or backwards. In other words, you don't have to be dead-on over the hitch ball when dropping the trailer on it if the trailer can come up or move side-to-side a little bit. Of course, this only applies if the trailer is on a relatively flat surface, any incline and the wheels get chocked immediately.
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Old 07-09-2011, 10:33 PM   #10
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I have found that it is much easier to couple and de-couple the hitch if the trailer can move slightly forward or backwards. In other words, you don't have to be dead-on over the hitch ball when dropping the trailer on it if the trailer can come up or move side-to-side a little bit. Of course, this only applies if the trailer is on a relatively flat surface, any incline and the wheels get chocked immediately.

That would make sense - I stand corrected.
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