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Old 07-20-2011, 07:22 PM   #1
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I just purchased a 28FLS and it drags it's rear end at the slightest hint of a hill or bump. The former owner had the foresight to put jack protectors on it but I am still concerned about how far forward the wheels are on this trailer. Anyone have the same issue and if so, what has been your solution? Advise is definitely appreciated.
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Old 07-21-2011, 12:52 AM   #2
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What is your tow vehicle...hitch setup?
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Old 07-21-2011, 07:33 AM   #3
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I am pulling it with a 2004 chevy crewcab longbed duramax diesel with a drawtite WDH which the RV Dealership supposedly adjusted to work properly with this trailer.
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Old 07-21-2011, 07:47 AM   #4
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When you are connected and you stand back and look at a side view of the truck and TT is the bottom line from truck front to TT back a straight and level line or is the distrotion? If it is not straight then it is not set right.
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Old 07-21-2011, 08:04 AM   #5
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The truck and trailer are level when hooked up. I have done this before with the weight distribution hitch. I was just wondering if there was anything I can do to put wheels or bracing brackets underneath to prevent the damage to the stabilizer jacks and the bottom from scraping in the future. Ground clearance on this trailer is very low.
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Old 07-21-2011, 09:17 AM   #6
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SKID WHEELS
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Old 07-21-2011, 09:57 AM   #7
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Is it because your Trailer Springs go under the Axle? You may need to do the over axle conversion.
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Old 07-21-2011, 11:22 AM   #8
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Skid wheels -------

Had the same problem with a 26' bunkhouse by Dutchmen. Would drag so bad finally tore the dump valve off which was mounted 2/3 way behind the rear axle and the rear of TT. It had skid bars that were installed at the factory, would still drag its butt.

Cured the problem. Cut off the bottom two inches of the skid bars, welded
heavy duty swivel wheels onto skid bars. had the TT 12 years, never tore off anything else. Wheels would do the trick. They were heavy duty steel caster wheels that swivel. Do not let the prices scare you, picture is just for example.
The wheels can be had for as little as $14.00 each.

Rolled in and out many steep driveways at Burger Kings, McDonald's, gas stations. easier to fit casters than to flip the axles.View 74 Products
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Old 07-21-2011, 12:20 PM   #9
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Ya the bad thing about the wheels or even the skid bars is that when the trailer drags that much on them, you pretty much have the weight at the tongue and on those skids leaving very little weight on the tires and support in the middle of trailer. Honestly the best long term solution is just see whats going on with the suspension.
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Old 07-21-2011, 12:34 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RubenZ View Post
Ya the bad thing about the wheels or even the skid bars is that when the trailer drags that much on them, you pretty much have the weight at the tongue and on those skids leaving very little weight on the tires and support in the middle of trailer. Honestly the best long term solution is just see whats going on with the suspension.
Ruben has raised a good point. These are valid concerns if your trailer is continually dragging, but putting all of that weight on skid wheels and the tongue are concerning, also.

1 thing said is the RV dealer "supposedly" set the hitch up correctly. You need to check that out by doing the fender measurements according to your instruction booklet, or making a couple of trips across some scales. Most dealers set the WDH up, and stand back and say "that looks about right". They have no idea how much the fenders drop.

Too stiff of spring bars could be a problem, as well as distributing too much weight to the front of the TV.

Another way to approach the dragging is to drop the hitch 1 more notch, and let the trailer tongue ride slightly low.

If I were to mount skid wheels, I would mount them as high as possible to where the bumper, jacks, or waste lines don't drag.
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