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Old 03-02-2014, 04:40 AM   #61
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When I left on a Friday morning the refig was cool. I hooked the RV to the car and plugged in and turned on the refrig to 12V. I got to the camp ground about 2pm and hooked up to electric and turned the refrig to (electric). I can use electric or propane so I did electric since electric was there. By that evening it still wasnt at safe temp. I checked the next morning and it wasnt cool enough at safe temp until about 9pm Sat night. I didnt put anything in it until it was safe temp. The stuff I put in was cold from the cooler. Even from 9pm until Sunday 11am at coldest temp setting and we got in it once Sat night, I would think that it would have been at the lower end of safe range. It was at the higher end of safe temp range. It also had been about mid to high 60's. Refig was on the East side with sun about 10am, there was a mountain behind.. so it had about 2 hrs of morning sun on that side and evenings were in the 40's. From what I've read, most RV small refrig take about 12 hrs to cool. This was 34 hrs total/26 hrs plugged into electric and it still only got up to the upper end of safe. That doesnt seem right. So will get RV place to check it out amount other things. I did read where it can get colder using propane than electric.


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Originally Posted by bikendan View Post
Pack, i'm trying to understand your fridge issue.
are you saying that you only set the fridge for the 12v DC setting? don't you have a 3-way fridge?
most only use the 12v DC setting while traveling. once they get to the campsite, they set it on the 110v AC IF they have electrical hookups and if not. they set it on the propane side.

in our 17 years of camping with our two popups, we NEVER had electric hookups, since we almost always camped in Calif. state parks. so we cooled ours on propane all the time.
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Old 03-02-2014, 05:07 AM   #62
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GalsofEscape, here is a pic of whats behind my hotwater heater. My understanding is that the tank is filled then then these two lines you see go up to the faucets in the sink and then over to the shower. I dont see how closing them those valves off when I clean out the hotwater tank will prevent any gunge from going into the water lines. The water will have to go somewhere, so it seems once I opened them back up, some of the water in the hotwater heater would drain through the lines. I'm not experienced with this stuff, so I could be totally wrong.
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Old 03-02-2014, 05:09 AM   #63
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well that didnt work in trying to send a pic..
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Old 03-02-2014, 05:12 AM   #64
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ok maybe this will do it
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Old 03-02-2014, 05:24 AM   #65
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I just put a pic on my profile.. wonder if it will come up when I hit "send" on this one.
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Old 03-02-2014, 05:27 AM   #66
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it should work now
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Old 03-02-2014, 05:31 AM   #67
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nope.. I put a pic in my signature and put a pic in profile and nothing shows up here.. Im so computer illiterate..
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Old 03-02-2014, 10:55 AM   #68
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Packncycle, yes - those are the valves I talked in the PM about. If you ever have to winterize and want to put antifreeze in the water lines, turn the blue and red valves to the off position and turn that middle connector valve to the on position. The antifreeze can then fill both the cold and hot water lines and not go into the water tank. But where you are, I do not think you will need to use antifreeze. This can also be used to blow out the water lines with an air compressor to dry the lines.
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