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Old 07-14-2014, 10:02 PM   #21
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Congrats on the Rockwood! What do you have your fridge set on when not hooked to power? Do you have a battery disconnect that might have the battery off?
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Old 07-15-2014, 07:03 AM   #22
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Congratulations Joe! We just got back from spending the weekend in ours. Everything is working great. The only thing that I'm still trying to figure out is the fridge operation. It either isn't cooling well enough or I'm not setting right to stay on when disconnected from power.
I'm not sure which unit you have a Norcol has a number system between the doors 1/5 five being the coldest. I think dometic has a slide on the fin in the refer part. All the way up is the coldest temp. To help even out the temp in the refer part you can add a fan to circulate the air, that helps alot. I do not know of any freezer control on either. Also be as level as you can so the ammo. will not accumulate in one area.
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Old 07-15-2014, 07:13 AM   #23
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Congratulations Joe! We just got back from spending the weekend in ours. Everything is working great. The only thing that I'm still trying to figure out is the fridge operation. It either isn't cooling well enough or I'm not setting right to stay on when disconnected from power.
Your fridge should be dual mode (i.e. Electricity when hooked up and propane when not)

Sounds simple but are you turning off the propane when you are disconnected? (speaking from experience )

You will know when it "kicks over" When you unplug, you will hear the TIC-TIC-TIC of the auto lighter then the propane will ignite and you will hear a small roaring sound similar to the the sound in your furnace or Hot Water Heater.

A lot of us have modded our refers to help them cool more efficiently. OC is famous for having replace his exterior fans with quieter and more efficient fans.

A quick and easy fix is getting a interior refer fan and running it when your refer is on.
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Old 07-15-2014, 08:18 AM   #24
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Your fridge should be dual mode (i.e. Electricity when hooked up and propane when not)

Sounds simple but are you turning off the propane when you are disconnected? (speaking from experience )

You will know when it "kicks over" When you unplug, you will hear the TIC-TIC-TIC of the auto lighter then the propane will ignite and you will hear a small roaring sound similar to the the sound in your furnace or Hot Water Heater.

A lot of us have modded our refers to help them cool more efficiently. OC is famous for having replace his exterior fans with quieter and more efficient fans.

A quick and easy fix is getting a interior refer fan and running it when your refer is on.
X's 2 I agree with BamaBob, If your refer is located in a slide such as the 8289WS Rockwood. It will help, but being you said on propane, you will create a lot more heat in the coil area. Heat rises and needs to be dissipated more on propane then electric. Most cooling problems that I know of is the ones located in the slide. What I had to do was add an extra fan below the coil on top. I just epoxied another fan to it and if you put a scoop in to blow it out the vent instead of trapping it you see a drastic improvement. Propane will create a lot more heat that you have to get rid of. I now run my unit on lowest setting or I start to freeze in the refer area. The strange part of this is that the factory knows this and all they say is that they are are waiting on approval from the manufacturer. They know of this problem in slides and admit it. That was a year ago on the factory tour.
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Old 07-15-2014, 08:54 AM   #25
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X's 2 I agree with BamaBob, If your refer is located in a slide such as the 8289WS Rockwood. It will help, but being you said on propane, you will create a lot more heat in the coil area. Heat rises and needs to be dissipated more on propane then electric. Most cooling problems that I know of is the ones located in the slide. What I had to do was add an extra fan below the coil on top. I just epoxied another fan to it and if you put a scoop in to blow it out the vent instead of trapping it you see a drastic improvement. Propane will create a lot more heat that you have to get rid of. I now run my unit on lowest setting or I start to freeze in the refer area. The strange part of this is that the factory knows this and all they say is that they are are waiting on approval from the manufacturer. They know of this problem in slides and admit it. That was a year ago on the factory tour.

Glenn,

Could you post a pict of your "scoop" this sounds exactly like what I need!!

TIA

Bob


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Old 07-15-2014, 12:01 PM   #26
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Thanks for all the help! I do have the dometic fridge with the slide on the fin. I set it on the coldest setting. I continued to run the fridge when we got home from camping this past weekend on electric. The freezer is 10 degrees and the fridge is 48 on the coldest setting. The real issue with it was on our hour and a half trip home it seemed to not keep cold melting things in the freezer. I had it set to automatic and heard it click over and light on propane. I did learn that the battery disconnect switch has to be left on in order for the fridge to operate on propane. It was a little over 90 degrees out, so I am wondering if the added fan will do the trick like glijurczyk suggests? Any pics of the fridge modifications would be appreciated. Thanks again!
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Old 07-15-2014, 12:28 PM   #27
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Rockwood on order

Sorry... I should have read to the end before replying. I'd think a fridge problem. We've never had a problem on electric or propane, or while traveling (2014 2306).
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Old 07-15-2014, 05:30 PM   #28
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Thanks for all the help! I do have the dometic fridge with the slide on the fin. I set it on the coldest setting. I continued to run the fridge when we got home from camping this past weekend on electric. The freezer is 10 degrees and the fridge is 48 on the coldest setting. The real issue with it was on our hour and a half trip home it seemed to not keep cold melting things in the freezer. I had it set to automatic and heard it click over and light on propane. I did learn that the battery disconnect switch has to be left on in order for the fridge to operate on propane. It was a little over 90 degrees out, so I am wondering if the added fan will do the trick like glijurczyk suggests? Any pics of the fridge modifications would be appreciated. Thanks again!
Will take some pics of the computer fan installed inside and for BOB I will try but all you are doing is directing the hot air out the vent instead of just letting it sit in the top of the box. I think OC has the samething, he gave me the idea after talking oneday. IT just forces the air out that vent. Sometimes I can post and sometimes not. Look at your frame construction for your hitch Just posted under what did you do to your trailer where you have your table shown........
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Old 07-16-2014, 08:13 AM   #29
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Thanks for all the help! I do have the dometic fridge with the slide on the fin. I set it on the coldest setting. I continued to run the fridge when we got home from camping this past weekend on electric. The freezer is 10 degrees and the fridge is 48 on the coldest setting. The real issue with it was on our hour and a half trip home it seemed to not keep cold melting things in the freezer. I had it set to automatic and heard it click over and light on propane. I did learn that the battery disconnect switch has to be left on in order for the fridge to operate on propane. It was a little over 90 degrees out, so I am wondering if the added fan will do the trick like glijurczyk suggests? Any pics of the fridge modifications would be appreciated. Thanks again!
Here is the picture of the computer fan I installed to move the cold air around. Just face to the fins blowing against them. the wiring is simple. With 1 wire hook a clip on and clip it to your cooling fin.(negative) For the power you have a choice some people use the light, but I ran it down through the drain tube, which brought it out at the backside where all your 110v and 12v wires are I spliced into 12v there. You will get 100% better and more even cooling. I can not even hear it running. Get a ball bearing fan online like ebay or amazon. I think this will help.
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Old 07-16-2014, 11:16 AM   #30
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Here is the picture of the computer fan I installed to move the cold air around. Just face to the fins blowing against them. the wiring is simple. With 1 wire hook a clip on and clip it to your cooling fin.(negative) For the power you have a choice some people use the light, but I ran it down through the drain tube, which brought it out at the backside where all your 110v and 12v wires are I spliced into 12v there. You will get 100% better and more even cooling. I can not even hear it running. Get a ball bearing fan online like ebay or amazon. I think this will help.
That's great, thanks! How is it switched as far as when it runs? Did you pull the fridge or can the fins be accessed from the exterior? I haven't removed the access panel on the exterior of mine yet.

Also, I have read a lot of folks are talking about the existing fan makes a lot of noise on the fridge. I have yet to hear my fridge make a sound. Would never know it's working other than its cool (not enough). Can you hear your fridge at all other than the extra fan you added?

Thanks again, Chris
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Old 07-16-2014, 11:54 AM   #31
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That's great, thanks! How is it switched as far as when it runs? Did you pull the fridge or can the fins be accessed from the exterior? I haven't removed the access panel on the exterior of mine yet.

Also, I have read a lot of folks are talking about the existing fan makes a lot of noise on the fridge. I have yet to hear my fridge make a sound. Would never know it's working other than its cool (not enough). Can you hear your fridge at all other than the extra fan you added?

Thanks again, Chris
Those fins are inside the unit. If you leave it clipped to the fin then it will run as long as the unit is on. When you want it off just remove the clip from the fin. After you hook the positive wire up you just leave it hooked up. If you go through the drain tube from the pan under the fins it will be behind your rear access panel behind outside. I do not hear that fan running maybe slightly. The fans I think you are talking about are the cooling fans behind the refer. Some could be noisy, they blow air over the outside coil behind the unit. Even if you are running 110v for it you still have 12v on what ever mode your in. Thats why you can power it off your 12v light in the refer. It was just easier for me to hook it up by the controls behind the outside panel. No switch is involved just the alligator clip to the fin. Unclip it and it will shut off. If you need a picture of the back let me know, and I will try and post it. This works a lot better then the battery operated ones you can get at CW, and take up less room and more airflow.
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