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Old 09-14-2018, 11:19 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Herk7769 View Post
... I insulated the pantry walls and boxed the coils with high temperature R3.5 aluminum faced foam board (2 layers facing the pantry). ...
What purpose does the insulation serve? Keeping the heat out of the living space? Sealing the ventilation space tight against air leaks to make the ventilator fans more effective?


Thanks
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Old 09-15-2018, 06:45 AM   #22
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What purpose does the insulation serve? Keeping the heat out of the living space? Sealing the ventilation space tight against air leaks to make the ventilator fans more effective?
Thanks
Due to all the space where hot air can be trapped, the pantry top shelves next to the fridge got so hot that food could not be kept there. Fridge efficiency is dictated by the maximum air flow over the coils and freezer fins then out of the camper.

Since this is an "in slide" fridge, the heat gets trapped and does not smoothly exit. Using heat resistant foam board to guide the air past the fins and insulate the pantry and the top of the chimney space to a minimum should result in more efficient coolling while keeping the pantry at a more resonable temperature. The big 140mm fans should keep that air moving even in the heat of the desert southwest.
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Old 09-15-2018, 02:40 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Herk7769 View Post
Fridge is done.

I insulated the pantry walls and boxed the coils with high temperature R3.5 aluminum faced foam board (2 layers facing the pantry).

I added two 140mm computer fans and patched them in to the thermostat controlled button switch. They come on when the tiny single fan at the bottom comes on.

As I was closing up I took a look at some water that was collecting on the floor of the fridge compartment. It does not appear to be coming from the drain (which is piped outside like its supposed to). There may be a hole in the tubing.

There was already a lot of corrosion on the screws and connections. I covered everything with 100MPH tape and made a channel to the outside so it can drain away.
Lou,
Looking at the bottom of the fridge compartment i did lay a lot of silicone in there. The Rockwood did delaminate directly below the frigged vent despite sealing it from condensate or water ingress from rain or washing. I like the idea of the insulation on the cabinet. I may do that on my Bighorn as well.
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Old 09-15-2018, 03:45 PM   #24
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Lou,
Looking at the bottom of the fridge compartment i did lay a lot of silicone in there. The Rockwood did delaminate directly below the frigged vent despite sealing it from condensate or water ingress from rain or washing. I like the idea of the insulation on the cabinet. I may do that on my Bighorn as well.
For the life of me I can't figure out where the water is coming from.
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Old 09-16-2018, 01:09 PM   #25
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I too noticed the same kind of "leak" yesterday. It's hot and very humid in MI and I am concerned about the leaking. I'm thinking it has something to do with the temp/humidity. I will apply Herk's fixes and see what happens.
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Old 09-19-2018, 03:42 PM   #26
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Inverter installed and one circuit run to the pedestal behind the theater seating. It is a convenient spot for a duplex and the remote switch for the inverter.

Easy to run an extension cord to the TV/Computer for entertainment and to the bedroom at night for the CPAP machine/phone chargers.

Photos when I can.
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Old 09-22-2018, 08:27 PM   #27
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Photos of the inverter install and the landing gear kill switch.

I also turned the battery 90 degrees to capture a bunch of wasted space behind the battery box.

The second circuit will go to the front driver side storage area and then run to the rear pass through. It will require dropping the belly covering so that entire run is on hold.
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Old 09-22-2018, 08:33 PM   #28
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Since with the table slide closed, the fridge can not only not be used, it can't be seen to determine the temperatures of the freezer and fridge.

I installed a wireless monitor that does both in the hallway wall.

The fan and insulation mod ROCKS.
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Old 09-23-2018, 10:22 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by Herk7769 View Post
Fridge is done.

I insulated the pantry walls and boxed the coils with high temperature R3.5 aluminum faced foam board (2 layers facing the pantry).

I added two 140mm computer fans and patched them in to the thermostat controlled button switch. They come on when the tiny single fan at the bottom comes on.

As I was closing up I took a look at some water that was collecting on the floor of the fridge compartment. It does not appear to be coming from the drain (which is piped outside like its supposed to). There may be a hole in the tubing.

There was already a lot of corrosion on the screws and connections. I covered everything with 100MPH tape and made a channel to the outside so it can drain away.
Maybe I'm seeing this wrong but it looks as though you covered above the cooling fins ? if so you will block the air flow needed to cool the unit . My mistake this is the top vent . looks good
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Old 09-26-2018, 05:33 PM   #30
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Bearing Failure on I25 south of Colorado Springs.

I have to say that both Flagstaff and Dexter stepped right up when I notified them of the problem.

Since I was on the side of the road, I was very limited on who and how I got the service from. The Sheriff's department was blocking the lane that I was partially on (very narrow shoulder) and they wanted me gone. After 2 hours of both USAA Roadside Service, me, and the Sheriff's Department trying to call every RV shop in town we finally found one to help.

The only repair shop that would dispatch a mechanic was 45 minutes away and they wanted door to door, plus roadside fees and parts up front. I did manage to get a 5% military discount but it still came to $1149.00

I talked (and emailed photos and my weigh tickets) to Flagstaff who immediately got me in touch with Connie at Dexter Axles.

They said they will cover the invoice 100%, and send a mobile axle repair service to my campsite and inspect, replace parts as needed, and repack all 4 wheels and inspect the rear axle for damage; all on their dime.

Big thumbs up for Dexter and Flagstaff.

PS- So glad I got it weighed before our trip!
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Old 09-26-2018, 06:32 PM   #31
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Wow. Sorry to hear that, Herk. Was the roadside repair person able to just re&re the old bearings or did the old bearing explode and cause more damage? My step-sister had 2 bearings go on their SOB TT and they had to replace both axles.
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Old 09-26-2018, 09:25 PM   #32
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Wow. Sorry to hear that, Herk. Was the roadside repair person able to just re&re the old bearings or did the old bearing explode and cause more damage? My step-sister had 2 bearings go on their SOB TT and they had to replace both axles.
Backer with complete brake assembly, inner and outer bearings, grease seal, and new hub with new races pre-pressed. Labor charge getting the old bearing races off and resurfacing the old axle spindle was GROSSLY underestimated, IMO. Sorta his fault for forgetting his cutoff wheel tool, so he did work his butt off tapping the old races that were cooked onto the axle. We also lucked out that he had a spare correct castle nut that he used to chase the threads on the axle; they were pretty chewed up. My biggest worry was we would not be able to save the axle.

They made up for it in the "Emergency Callout Charge" and "roadside repair surcharge", so I am not sorry for them.
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Old 09-26-2018, 09:54 PM   #33
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Lou, the person in your first picture has a safety vest on that says “Citizen Patrol”. What is that? Never seen that before.
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Old 09-26-2018, 11:07 PM   #34
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Lou, the person in your first picture has a safety vest on that says “Citizen Patrol”. What is that? Never seen that before.
They are unpaid volunteers who work for the Sheriffs office and provide coverage in strapped departments.

They provide traffic control at accident scenes, abandon vehicle tracking, and pretty much everything a cop does except arrest and carry a gun. They have comms with the 911 dispatcher.

Cathy was retired Army and loves the work.
Without her and her radio car, we would have been screwed.
She blocked the lane so we were safe and provided radio contact with dispatch.
She also was the one who finally found the shop who would respond to the scene.
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Old 09-27-2018, 12:01 PM   #35
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So, as I suspected, I was seriously ripped off by Premier Auto and RV of Falcon, CO. The mobile repair service contracted by Dexter confirmed it should have AT THE MOST been 300-400 complete for a roadside repair with all new parts.

DO NOT USE THEM

HIGHLY recommend -
Ron's Mobile RV Service, Colorado Springs, CO
719-391-2033

As part of the Dexter covered check, he found that the repair work was not professionally done (they failed to adjust the brakes after install).

Additionally, both right side wheel bearings were loose. He suspects that the left side rear bearing was most likely too loose as well.
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Old 10-07-2018, 11:48 PM   #36
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Dealer PDI missed on this? My dealer jacks up and checks the wheel for play and adjusts the brakes as required.
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Old 10-07-2018, 11:56 PM   #37
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Dealer PDI missed on this? My dealer jacks up and checks the wheel for play and adjusts the brakes as required.
Not sure a PDI was ever done; though they said they did one.
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Old 11-08-2018, 04:12 PM   #38
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So, today I was on the roof insulating and sealing up the Air Conditioner air handlers and noticed this.

Luckily I had a tube of Dicor Lap Sealant in my tool bag and after taking some photos in case it becomes a warranty repair, I sealed it up.

It will postpone the planned Eternabond until it is resolved.
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Old 12-30-2018, 12:41 AM   #39
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Herk, did you get your roof issue resolved yet?

Also, can you please post a pic of how you hinged the rear storage area panel to give better access to the WH by-pass valves?
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Old 12-30-2018, 11:47 AM   #40
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Herk, did you get your roof issue resolved yet?

Also, can you please post a pic of how you hinged the rear storage area panel to give better access to the WH by-pass valves?
I DICOR'd it pretty heavy and it should last until the International Rally. I already talked to Flagstaff and they will work me in to get it fixed (most likely the week prior). I will inspect it again after our first trip (Florida in February) and if it is pulling loose I will need to get it repaired there.

As to the bypass valves, I just removed the entire panel and scored it where I wanted the fold and put it back. I did not screw down the hinged part of the panel and added a pull strap long enough that I can reach it from the driver side bed access. The covering acts like a hinge when I need to access the valves from under the bed side. I can reach the valves with the panel out of the way if I stretch.
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