4SQUARE SafetyStrut installation - 2012 Rockwood Ultra-Lite 2701SS

[Restcure]

I received my 4SQUARE SafetyStrut brackets from Mount-n-Lock today.



They are designed to reinforce the rear bumper. Our bumper is welded to the supported from the front and bottom by welds to the manufactured I-beam frame.




I suspect that the bumper is already strong enough as is, but the brackets are cheap insurance against loss of whatever we decide to carry back there... and a possible accident if it fell off!

I did some back-and-forth with Paul at Mount-n-Lock for help on choosing the right brackets for my frame. We decided on the SSN with additional washers to space it out from the bottom weld.

[Restcure]

I took the brackets out to the trailer for a first look and noticed right away that this piece of trim is in the way.






I can bend it forward but not enough to get a straight shot with a drill.




After removing the two screws that secure it to the side trim I was able to move it back a little.




However, it's sealed at the top along the back and won't budge from there.




Any tips on how to remove it?

[jonshonda]

The convex portion of the trim can be removed to reveal screws that fasten the part on. It will require you removing some of the sealant at the end to gain access to the screw that fastens the trim in place.

[5picker]

Before I'd be removing trim and caulking, possibly creating a place for a leak... why not simply drill two new holes through the bracket and the frame where you have access?

[007matman]

I'm very interested in finding out how you do with this. I was considering the same setup on my 2008 8318SS. Which has the same style bumper and frame.

Are you going to install a bike rack? I was looking at one of the 4-bike SportWing models

[Restcure]

Originally Posted by jonshonda

The convex portion of the trim can be removed to reveal screws that fasten the part on. It will require you removing some of the sealant at the end to gain access to the screw that fastens the trim in place.

Thanks!

Originally Posted by 5picker

Before I'd be removing trim and caulking, possibly creating a place for a leak... why not simply drill two new holes through the bracket and the frame where you have access?

I should have been more clear - the gold stuff is skirting that hangs beneath the trailer and is already exposed to the elements on both sides. I don't think removing it is going to open the door to new leaks, but I will be sure to seal the trim up well. As for new holes, a few reasons:

1. The location you suggest is still too tight to get the drill in place
2. I think they put the holes where they did on the bracket for most strength (although there is an inner set of holes that can be used instead)
3. I already hate drilling through steel and would like to avoid doing more of it than absolutely necessary!

Originally Posted by 007matman

I'm very interested in finding out how you do with this. I was considering the same setup on my 2008 8318SS. Which has the same style bumper and frame.

Are you going to install a bike rack? I was looking at one of the 4-bike SportWing models

We plan to use our Arvika rack. We've tried it on the A frame (blocks window and battery access):




...and we've tried it on the front hitch (sticks out pretty far and obstructs the view a bit):






So we're hoping the Arvika works on the rear bumper without too much bounce. If not we will consider improvements to the other methods.


A bigger and higher priority mod is arriving on the FedEx truck this week - but stay tuned!

[007matman]

I know that some have said that the rear bumper will flex quite a bit but I'm wondering what would happen with those brackets. Additionally, I think I would want to find a way to secure the rack to the back of the trailer to give it some added reinforcement.

[DreiHunde]

Originally Posted by Restcure

A bigger and higher priority mod is arriving on the FedEx truck this week - but stay tuned!

Oh man, teasing us. Now thats just plain mean

Seriously, nice mod on the bumper !

[Restcure]

Originally Posted by DreiHunde

Oh man, teasing us. Now thats just plain mean

Seriously, nice mod on the bumper !

Patience, Heuschrecke! All will be revealed...

In the meantime Mount-n-Lock support got back to me... one of their suggestions was to try the installation on the INSIDE of the frame. Hmm...

[DreiHunde]

Originally Posted by Restcure

Patience, Heuschrecke! All will be revealed...

In the meantime Mount-n-Lock support got back to me... one of their suggestions was to try the installation on the INSIDE of the frame. Hmm...

It's always nice when you get feedback from a company!

[Restcure]

Originally Posted by DreiHunde

It's always nice when you get feedback from a company!

It is indeed! Unfortunately this particular advice will not work.

[ncebeemer]

I am just about to order the brackets and cargo tray from mount and go. I have a new 2018 rockwood 2715vs. It has the same small access due to the trim going almost right to the bumper. do you have the dimensions of the portion of the bracket that has the holes that have to be drilled into the I-beam ? Thanks

[Restcure]

Originally Posted by ncebeemer

I am just about to order the brackets and cargo tray from mount and go. I have a new 2018 rockwood 2715vs. It has the same small access due to the trim going almost right to the bumper. do you have the dimensions of the portion of the bracket that has the holes that have to be drilled into the I-beam ? Thanks

How's this?




Keep in mind that with 4" bumpers that lug with the forward bolt hole will not be tight against the inside of the bumper (5-1/2" - 3/4" = 4-3/4")... so it sits about 3/4" of an inch away, as you can see in this photo:

[ncebeemer]

Thanks Restcure.

I took another look at my bumper and saw that they had cut into the I-beam 3.5 inches and rested the bumper (4") on that and then welded. Another site said it should hold 350 lbs. I am going to mount a mount n go generator carrier and carry a Honda 3000 inverter (about 120 lbs). Even though it might be rated for 350 lbs, I still have a concern about the downward rotation weight of the generator as it hangs 24' off of the bumper. I have a call into Forest River to see what they say about it before I decide to add the brackets. I should hear next week when they are back from holiday.

[Restcure]

ncebeemer, I had the same thoughts when I looked at mine, which is also welded in place under the bumper.




I even started a thread about it... http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...st-136972.html.

My conclusion is that the SafetyStruts are cheap insurance.

[Restcure]

Originally Posted by DreiHunde

Oh man, teasing us. Now thats just plain mean

Seriously, nice mod on the bumper !

Bigger mod complete - new stairs! http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ml#post1550348

[007matman]

Originally Posted by Restcure

Bigger mod complete - new stairs! http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ml#post1550348

Looks great! Congratulations.

[Restcure]

Back to the bumper! Over the past two days I got both of the struts installed. It was pretty straightforward except for the #$%! trim and side skirting, which got in the way... especially on the road side.

Removing the rear trim piece meant removing eight screws... two that attached the trim to the side skirt, four in the trim rail, and two beneath the trim rail that held the piece to the trailer. And the trim rail screws were easy to access... the cover pops out with no problem.




Enough about the trim... on to the installation of the brackets. Mine have to stand out a little from the weld bead along the bottom and I'll use washers for that. But to mark the holes for drilling I made a template so the struts could lie flat and straight against the frame.




As specified in the installation instructions, I used a 3/8" drill bit through hole #1 to dimple a drilling mark into the frame.




I used cutting fluid and a small bit to drill the pilot hole.





I enlarged the pilot to 5/16" with a step drill, then used 25/64" and 11/32" twist bits to enlarge the hole to the needed size. The provided bolts are self tapping.

[Restcure]

With hole #1 drilled and tapped, I attached the strut and template to dimple holes #2 and #3. I used drill bits to align the two before tightening the bolt.




Here are the marks for holes #2 and #3.




This time I skipped the pilot with the small twist bit and went straight to the step drill. I used plenty of cutting fluid and periodically checked the drill for heat. It was a lot easier.




Once all of the holes were drilled and tapped I installed the strut with two washers behind each bolt.








When that was done I installed nuts on the bolts for security.




The second strut was a repeat of the first.

[rockfordroo]

There shouldn't be any real force pulling outward on the bolts, but I don't know that I'd trust self-tapping bolts on that relatively thin web. If it were me, I'd replace them with real bolts, nuts and lock washers. Just for my own peace of mind.

UPDATE: Glad to see you added nuts. Looks like I posted too soon!