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Old 02-26-2012, 07:43 PM   #1
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Add a switch to Suburban Furnace Fan

Has anyone added an external switch to the furnace fan to be able to circulate air thru the floor ducts without the furnace being lighted?
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Old 02-26-2012, 08:05 PM   #2
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I'm sure you could. Are you just trying to move air?
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Old 02-26-2012, 09:01 PM   #3
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Furnace Fan Switch

Yes, just wanting to move air thru the floor ducts. Do you know how to do it?
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Old 02-26-2012, 09:35 PM   #4
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NO ! sorry lol but all you would have to do is tap into the fan wire and then install a lighted switch . If you take the front cover off there is most likely a wiring schematic .
Or go to the manufactures web site and download it .


But I would get a digital thermostat with a manual fan setting and run the extra wire just like what would be in your home !


anyone correct me if Im wrong .
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Old 02-28-2012, 11:07 PM   #5
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Can't do it with the thermostat. Called the Suburban factory and talked to a technician and was told it would void the warranty and the unit was not "Certified" to only run the fan. BTW, the wiring is in the back of the unit and evidently from what I have seen, the entire furnace has to be removed to get to the wires and there is a screw somewhere in the rear or middle that I can't find that is holding it in. The 2 in the front are easy to get to as is the propane line. Just can't find the other one. Will have to ask the dealer Thurs where it is. Have to take it back to get some holes drilled, trailer washed and the black water sewer connection leak fixed. The dealer should be thankful we haven't used any of the holding tanks. lol.
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Old 02-28-2012, 11:41 PM   #6
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Did you take the screws out of the exhaust port out side the TT?
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Old 02-29-2012, 03:11 AM   #7
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No, didn't want to cut the caulking until I buy some new or before I take it back to the dealer tomorrow. After that, I will take the vent cover off and look for the missing screw. The dealer is also going to activate the Sidewinder Hitch and replace the slider hitch in the bed. Don't like the slack in all the joints popping and banging when you start and stop.
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Old 02-29-2012, 08:04 AM   #8
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No, didn't want to cut the caulking
You don't have to, the 3" screw comes out with out removing the exhaust ports. See the image below.

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Old 02-29-2012, 08:08 AM   #9
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Has anyone added an external switch to the furnace fan to be able to circulate air thru the floor ducts without the furnace being lighted?
Probably a dumb question, but why? You can run just the fan on the A/C unit and that would at least circulate any residual heat in the trailer around. Also I think the furnace fan is louder than the A/C fan on low.
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Old 02-29-2012, 05:08 PM   #10
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Don't have the 3" screw in the middle of the vent, just 6 around the outside.
The ac fan will not circulate air thru the floor ducts which also heat the underbelly, water lines in the bathroom and the basement of the 5ver. On the 8528, the furnace is in the back of the trailer and the blower can't be heard from the bedroom in the front.
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Old 03-08-2012, 09:47 PM   #11
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Got the switch installed and it works like a charm. There are only 2 screws holding the furnace in place. Disconnected the propane line, had to remove the outside vent cover and an exhaust tube with a flange that fits very snuggly to the furnace and removed the entire furnace. Tapped into the red wire to the fan and re-installed the unit. While I had it out, used aluminum tape and covered the 4 unused duct covers that leaked air like crazy. Now, when we go to FL in Dec and experience cooler nights, we can just use the furnace blower to circulate the heat from our electric heater down into the storage area and thru' out the trailer.
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Old 03-14-2012, 06:00 PM   #12
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I have seen this topic under discussion on a forum somewhere. One of the concerns was that the fan is a dual blower setup on one motor, one for indoor air, and one for the combustion chamber. If you turn on the indoor fan, the outdoor fan runs also, pulling cold air thru the combustion chamber. Assuming you are running the fan with a temperature difference between inside and outside, and there is humidity in the air, the concern was condensation accumulation on the combustion chamber walls that could lead to early failure. During normal operation the chamber is hot so this does not happen. I'm not sure if this was all theory or someone got this from a manufacturer. I'm not saying this will happen, I'm just referencing the post I read and their thoughts. I do find it interesting that most rv's have an air circulation fan switch on the A.C, but I have never seen one on a furnace. I wonder if this is why?
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Old 03-14-2012, 06:23 PM   #13
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Furnace Fan Switch

The motor is a dual shaft with the combustion blower on one end and the hot air on the other. I don't see it being much of a problem with condensation as it will just blow in the combustion chamber and out the exhaust port. The fresh air inlet is open all the time anyway and if the wind is blowing, you would get a similar altho much less effect. I am willing to take the chance to get the warm air into the storage and underbelly without using propane.
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Old 03-14-2012, 08:10 PM   #14
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It could be done, but you would have to add a fan relay, The question is were you would find a 12v fan relay. If the unit was 24v like a house furnace you wouldn't have a problem. I do not know of a 12v relay. If you find one let me know and I would be able to draw you schematic. You might check some web sites. but you still might have to buy a different stat.
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Old 03-14-2012, 08:39 PM   #15
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Furnace Fan Switch

I have already got the switch installed and it works fine, it is not controlled by the thermostat, it is a manual switch. It bypasses all the furnace controls and works by just powering the fan itself from a separate 12v source. Also tried it by turning the manual switch off and turning the furnace on for heat. Everything still works as before.

But thank you very much for the offer of assistance, I appreciate it very much.
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