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Old 02-15-2011, 09:54 AM   #11
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Sam,

The ZX75 has a low level output on the back of the unit that you can use to power an amplifier for a sub.

Alternatively, there is a Powered Output directly from the ZX75 that could drive a 4ohm sub such as: Concertone® SW-Box4 Subwoofer
You could hide this in a wall or ceiling and use this to cover it: Concertone® SW-GRILL3 Speaker Grill

If you use an amplifier, USE an appropriate gauge (size) power AND ground wire (properly fused) and connect to a good source (not the power to the radio). Make sure ALL components are properly grounded and cables properly run to ensure no noise.

Have fun!
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Old 02-15-2011, 11:21 AM   #12
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If the current rating of the fuse is lets say 10 amps and the head unit draws 3 amps and the new subwoofer application draws 3 amp then you should be fine on the 12 V end of things using the head unit's power supply leads. I am not sure the current draw of the head unit and was just using this is an example.

If you need to install a separate wire then use at least a 14 to 16 guage wire. The more thecurrent draw and the longer the run on the wire from the source to amp the heavier the guage the wire you want if you are putting a separate power line to the fuse panel.
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Old 02-15-2011, 11:47 AM   #13
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thanks Bob. Looks like a much easier way to do the project,no power to run. I saw those +,- outputs in my users manual for my old ZX75. I was wondering how much power exactly it is outputting. The sub you listed was 75 watts RMS. So somewhere in that range I can look to find something or I can buy this one.

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Old 02-15-2011, 12:13 PM   #14
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Samsco,
The amplifier's power rating, say 75 watts may not tell you alot about about the current draw in amps from the power wires. You need to know how many amps the amplifier draws to make the sound not the output of the amplifier to drive the speakers. If the audio system is on a 10 amp circuit and the two devices draw less than 10 amps at peak power, you should be fine tapping into the head units power supply.

You could simply change the 10 amp fuse to a 20 amp and be done with it and draw the power from the head unit source, but the wire used to wire the circuit make get a little warm if the current draw exceeds the oem wire current rating. I would suggest adding a seperate circuit for the sub amp if this the case....
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Old 02-15-2011, 12:42 PM   #15
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smokey,

I understand what you are saying about the load on one particular circuit. I am a lighting technician, work out of a bucket truck all day. The way it is described is that the powered output from the head unit Bob described would not need to be amplified as the unit is already doing that it says. The speaker unit he recommended is un-powered it looks. First he said that there is the outputs to add an amp to the signal as well. The second method is the one I am trying to be working with first. So in a sense the only gauging of wire would be the speaker wire from the head unit to the speaker.
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Old 02-15-2011, 01:34 PM   #16
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Sorry about the discussion there on current and load...I vote do what Bob says...I would use the low level out....

Monster Cable makes a really nice home theater cable that is easily pulled ... it has a nice round jacket and it is smooth...
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Old 02-17-2011, 06:32 AM   #17
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I guess the point is you could go either way.

Simplicity (and least cost) would be to use he amp IN the unit, but of course you are limited in the power of the radio. If you determine this is not loud enough for you, then add an amp.

I would STILL RECOMMEND QUITE STRONGLY that you do NOT use the radio power supply wire and ABSOLUTELY DO NOT increase the fuse size on ANY CIRCUIT EVER! Doing so may cause the wire not only to heat up, but to melt and then short out and cause a FIRE! This is true for ANY circuit not just the radio circuit.
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Old 02-21-2011, 05:56 PM   #18
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Hey Guys,

I tried adding amplification to the existing 8" concertone sub in my Rockwood.

Just a simple 50 watt amp with built in adjustable crossover. I pulled a #10 wire from the battery to the amp location in the cabinet that houses the sub.

It Will Not Work. The 12v system will not handle the power drain. The 12v converter is not high enough amperage to handle the current draw. Everytime the bass hit, the lights in the trailer dimmed. So I added a 1farad Cap to the power line to try and smooth out the power drain. It worked for a few minutes, but the lights kept getting dimmer and dimmer.

Yes, I checked the battery. It is a 3 mth old Interstate.

My solution was to remove the Concertone sub, install a high level to low level converter on the exisiting speaker leads and install a small home theater sub, a Velodyne Impact Mini Velodyne . It fit in the existing cabinet, and WOW what a sound difference. And since it runs on 110v, no problem with the 12v.

Only down side is it does not work without shore power.

Your mileage my vary, but it worked for me.

I will try and take some pics soon......
Good Luck
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Old 02-22-2011, 06:33 PM   #19
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Like the idea of the simple install both ways. Unfortunately the first way did not work for you. I was thinking of going off a new 12v circuit from the converter intead of the battery. Wonder if it would still cause the same symptom?

The house speaker idea is ideal for us actually. We have yet to go without hookups so the 120v thing is really not an issue. Where did you find the converter for the speaker wires?

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Old 02-22-2011, 08:05 PM   #20
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At least I am glad it is NOT my issue! :-)
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