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Old 02-22-2011, 10:16 PM   #21
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 144
I posted pics in an earlier mod thread of a system I set up. I used all mtx car audio with my factory 700 head unit.System is awesome with the better sound , but my wife hates the sub. She said it was overkill. She hates having it in the middle of the floor.well worth the upgrade

2011 Ram Laramie
2010 Rockwood 8319ss
2010 Polaris sportman 300(wife's)
2005 Polaris sportman 500HO (mine)

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Old 02-23-2011, 06:24 AM   #22
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Moose Jaw, Saskatchewan
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Originally Posted by ctiner View Post
Hey Guys,

I tried adding amplification to the existing 8" concertone sub in my Rockwood.

Just a simple 50 watt amp with built in adjustable crossover. I pulled a #10 wire from the battery to the amp location in the cabinet that houses the sub.

It Will Not Work. The 12v system will not handle the power drain. The 12v converter is not high enough amperage to handle the current draw. Everytime the bass hit, the lights in the trailer dimmed. So I added a 1farad Cap to the power line to try and smooth out the power drain. It worked for a few minutes, but the lights kept getting dimmer and dimmer.

Yes, I checked the battery. It is a 3 mth old Interstate.

My solution was to remove the Concertone sub, install a high level to low level converter on the exisiting speaker leads and install a small home theater sub, a Velodyne Impact Mini Velodyne . It fit in the existing cabinet, and WOW what a sound difference. And since it runs on 110v, no problem with the 12v.

Only down side is it does not work without shore power.

Your mileage my vary, but it worked for me.

I will try and take some pics soon......
Good Luck
Something wrong there,

A 50 watt amp should not draw more than about 5 amps at best and if you can't get that well like I said. There are spare fuse positions on the converter panel that can handle powering a couple hundred watt inverter no problem so an amp like that should be a walk in the park. Your cable was plenty large for that app. So it is apparant something else was at fault. Also how do you think the converter is the culprit when you were powering it directly from the battery? Most converters are 40 to 55 amp in this range of trailers so again far more than a 5 amp draw would require.

Amps and Wire Gauge - 12V Circuit

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Old 02-23-2011, 09:03 AM   #23
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Join Date: Oct 2010
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You have a valid point. I never bothered to do the calculations. So now I am curious.

50w x2 amp running @ 150w mono/bridged. 150w*1.5=225w 1.5 factor to account for amplifier inefficiencies. 225w/13v = 17amps (Calculations according to Crutchfield). Of course this is at full load.

Is a 17amp draw + the other 12v current draw (lights ect) enough to cause this problem. I would not think so, but it certainly appeared to....

The reason I suspected the converter is that: Batteries handle consistent power draw very well, but not intermittent draws (like a bass amp). I have seen large amplifiers in car audio systems cause enough current draw to cause the headlights to blink. I have even seen one instance where the audio system would cause such a power drain, that the car would die!

Theoretically, the capacitor should have handled the fluctuations in power draw, but it seemed the converter could not keep up. Causing the battery to slowly drain down.

Maybe my converter is not putting out the full amperage? I'll have to look for a way to test it....

I should have tried the system when it was hooked up to my running truck, instead of shore power.

Thanks for the insight.... What do you think?

Oh, the line level converter I used is : Product Details | iPod Integration for your car and More by Pac-Audio - Connecting you to the future

It should be available at any local car audio dealer.

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