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Old 07-26-2011, 09:13 PM   #11
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 108
Originally Posted by amidroc
most of the parts were purchased at pep boys

Dorman Battery Isolator Switch part# 85988
Dorman Charging system analyzer part# 84502
Black 12 ga wire to connect the battery to the isolator switch
3 terminal ring connector to connect the cable from the battery to the isolator switch
1 momentary pushbutton switch ( i had this laying around from another project) i got it at radio shack
various sizes of shrink wrap

2 5mm screws and bolts to attach the switch to the battery box
strip of 1/2" aluminum flat bar to attach the analyzer to battery box
i drilled 3 holes and counter sunk them so the analyzer would sit flat on the bar.
there is one screw holding the analyzer case together i scrapped it and used a longer one to make sure it could go through the battery case and flat bar.

the connections are as such.

from the battery's positive terminal connect the black 12ga wire to one side of the isolator switch.

i connected the cable from the trailer to the other side of the switch.

the analyzer comes equipped with an aligator clip and probe i cut those off and stripped back the wire. on the black cable i terminated a ring connector on the red cable i also terminated a ring connector but also spliced it to solder it to the push button switch. i used the shrink wrap to secure the cables.

thats about it. PM me if you have questions
12gage seems awful small to go from the battery to the cut off switch


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Old 07-31-2011, 07:07 PM   #12
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ittle dew's Avatar
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 112
Got around to doing my disconnect finally. I found a 12 volt battery gage and momentary switch combo at Cabella's ( under 30 bucks for a 2 battery set up ) It reads battery charge in 10 percent increments, is weather resistant, and the gage lights up when the switch is thrown. I also went overboard and ordered a waterproof battery disconnect switch ( 30 bucks but don't tell the wife ). I wired the gage according to the instructions, red to positive terminal and black to negative. The gage does not come on unless the switch is thrown. I looked at my 12 gage wire that goes to my converter and has a 25 amp fuse, and found my breakaway break switch spliced to the same wire upstream of the fuse. Not wanting to mess with my breakaway, I separated the two into two separate 12 gage wires. I left the breakaway wired directly to the positive side of the battery. I took the converter wire and isolated it with the disconnect switch. Now when I turn off the disconnect, it shuts off my converter, my LP and carbon monoxide sensor ( the big parasitic draw when not being used ) the 12 volt lights etc., anything run through the converter. I can still check the battery and raise the electric lift and work the breakaway breaks even if the switch is off as I saw those as necessary safety thing that I want to work even if I forgot the switch, and the gage as a convenience so I don't have to turn everything on to check my battery level. It took about two hours. I tested it this weekend camping and it seems to work good.

Thank you for your idea, parts list and description and for the courage to cut into my new ( only 4 trips on it ) camper. Off to the next mod

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battery, battery disconnect

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