Battery Disconnect 2012 Sabre RETS

[h20ski]

Well I've been bored, so I decided to add a battery disconnect (only for more convience). Thanks to all of those who post mods. I was able to review them and then adjust for my application. Can't wait till after Christmas so we can begin camping again. Merry Christmas to all and have a safe New Years.

[traveler2955]

Good thinking!

IMHO disconnects are a necessity and should be standard on each RV, and we've done this on every unit we've owned, boat or otherwise. If they are not, add it!

Marine stores sell these, see the brick and mortar or Web for the right product with enough capacity or features to suit.

The number one reason is safety. Those of us who add stuff to our rigs, modify, or repair can do so without live connections. Moreover, disconnects may prevent your RV from burning to the ground if something fails beyond the connection of that switch.

Another thought-- RV'ers might consider modifying that ground, too. In every instance we've solidly fixed the ground to the frame. Generally, the ground is attached with a self-taping hex bolt and star-lock washer. In time the corrosion between the painted frame and the connection causes failures in every component. that failure may be catastrophic, even arching which might cause an explosion via the battery gasses (H) etc.

Finally, install a connection strip wherein you can independently lift problem wires (also sold at marine stores or electrical facilities). It's awfully difficult to determine which wire is faulty-- or component-- if they are all jumbled together.

Switches and connection strips, better grounds, and so on, allow the owners to dress the wiring making it easier to fix stuff.

Mike

[Stormrider151]

I tried this using what apears to be the same keyed switch. The result was a very weak ground. Did you ground positive or negative? My bad eyes won't let me see well enough to tell. It's a great idea but when I did it the light and all 12 volt equipment either was very weak or just would not work. If I hit the slide out switch it killed everything. Nice job

[h20ski]

Stormrider151 I decided to use that switch partly because of it's compact size and two because of it's specs (100 amps continuous service and 500 amps for 10 second surges). I did place it on the pos side of the battery. After installation I tried a couple of items in the camper and it all worked as advertised.

[traveler2955]

Common grounds are "negative grounds" in the USA. Other countries-- not necessarily. When in doubt, check the connections on the battery and follow the wire, or use a volt-ohm meter. Batteries usually have a + or a - that is raised. You can feel on the battery, or have someone check for you.

Grounds are notoriously bad. In fact, “ANY” owner of any vehicle with DC connections is advised to check out the ground connection. Corrosion takes place between dissimilar metals, and that corrosion reduces the conductivity. Simply put, positive connections keep you rolling, weak connections keep you immobile.

Dielectric greases are used to keep the connections in good shape, but they don’t fix bad wire, already poor connections, or the buildup of garbage between contacts. Although this grease is the best, a substitute can be any grease or oil, but surfactants like WD-40 actually limits the grease by removing greases, and is not considered a lubricant, so be careful. Don't grease the entire battery.

At the minimum, yearly, clean your connections, replace all bad wires and connectors with proper sizes and quality parts, remove any paint and guck around the connections, lightly coat the connectors and attachments with a good grease or corrosive inhibitor-- apply greases sparingly. Then tightly connect.

For a quick study of what I’m talking about, lift the hood of a car that’s a few years old. Observe the battery and connections, wiring around this, and the surface of the battery. That surface guck is a leakage point whereby your battery will deplete over a shorter time. The old saying, “Cleanliness is next to Godliness” is correct.

And, just because you did all of this this year, you’re advised to do it next, and the year after, etc.

Generally speaking, connections that attach to a car battery in an RV should be kept to a minimum. There are a few exceptions such as HAM radios where direct connections are the norm. These may use larger current flows and noise from intermediate connections cause problems in the radio(s) and other gear.

Terminal strips are, in effect, like a fuse panel at your home, only without the fuses. Some strips actually have fuses. Nevertheless, strips allow you or others to disconnect one or more wires which may have that faulty gizmo or bad connecton in the line.

Disconnecting bunches of corroded wires off the battery is not only dangerous, but the analysis on which circuit is bad. Be certain to use proper wiring to that switch and terminal strip you put in as a distribution point. Small gauge wires cause fires with heavy loads. When in doubt, research!

Lead-acid batteries give off hydrogen gas which is extremely explosive. Remember the Hindenburg. Be cautious, wear protective glasses and use proper tools. A wrench between the terminals may draw enough current to vaporize it.

Good luck,

Mike