Bought solar for my TT

[mzbrandi]

Hi all. Gotta problem hope someone can help me with answers. I have an 2014 RP171 rPod. Camping World had a good price on an 85 watt solar panel (Nature Power) and 28amp charge controller (Nature Power). Ok, the wires coming in from the battery to the converter is #4. Looking at the instructions, the largest wire is #8. Looking at where the wires connect on the controller, I can't see how a #4 wire will fit in a hole for a #8??? With two sets of #4 and #8 wires fished through the trailer is not something I look forward to. So....does my trailer really need #4 wires (converted all incandescent light to LEDs)? Can/should I down size wire size from batts to converter? Ideas???

Thanks Brandi


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[rana]

I'm not quite understanding your question. Unless I'm missing something, the charge controller wiring should be independent and not have any relation to the wiring between your battery bank and converter.

You would want to run #8 then (if that is the largest gauge the controller will accept without modifying the lugs), mount it as close as possible to your battery bank and wire directly to the batteries. It should not be inline of the converter and battery bank.

Just looked at the manual for your charge controller. It says it can accept up to #6 so that is what I would use on your controller to battery connection.

If you were talking about the load line connection.. I personally wouldn't use it. Let the converter/battery circuit take care of the loads.

[mzbrandi]

Originally Posted by Yarome

I'm not quite understanding your question. Unless I'm missing something, the charge controller wiring should be independent and not have any relation to the wiring between your battery bank and converter.

You would want to run #8 then (if that is the largest gauge the controller will accept without modifying the lugs), mount it as close as possible to your battery bank and wire directly to the batteries. It should not be inline of the converter and battery bank.

Just looked at the manual for your charge controller. It says it can accept up to #6 so that is what I would use on your controller to battery connection.

If you were talking about the load line connection.. I personally wouldn't use it. Let the converter/battery circuit take care of the loads.

Yarome - Sorry of not being real clear. I know enough to be dangerous. Haha. The issue was the load line. I thought I would have to use the load line when hooking up the controller. I was thinking of locating the controller next to the 120vt outlet on the face of the cabinet under the sink. I would like to use all the options of the controller, but still trying to figure out the big wire in the small hole. For those spec-ing out my system, I expect to add panels later.

Thanks for responding.
Brandi


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[rana]

Originally Posted by mzbrandi

I thought I would have to use the load line when hooking up the controller. I was thinking of locating the controller next to the 120vt outlet on the face of the cabinet under the sink. I would like to use all the options of the controller, but still trying to figure out the big wire in the small hole.

That makes more sense, but I would stick with my original recommendation and not use the load connection. You "could" use it to power directly to an inverter, but you don't have enough solar for that, and I don't think you'll need to install a low voltage cutoff relay, so it's not necessary.

How far is it from your intended mounting location to your battery bank? With #6 you really can't be more than 3-4 feet without losing juice.

If you're determined to use it, then you can use a wire lug. Something like these. They attach to the end of your #4 and provide a smaller diameter lug connection that will fit the charge controller.

[Batts-toy]

The little load line on the charge controller will not handle a very big load. If you install a 110v plug to plug things into you should install an inverter coming off the battery bank then come off the inverter to the 110v outlet.

[wickedwyrm]

I wouldn't use the load side of the charge controller. Just connect the leads to the panel and then the other leads to the block for the battery connections. The panel will then work to charge your battery. You only have around 6amps so I wouldn't worry about the length of the wire with regards to voltage drop. Remember to use a fuse on the leads also.


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[contractor Rob]

None of these guys know what there talking about....sorry guys. You need to read handy Bobs blog on solar charging. He's the man !!
As for your concern about using a No 4 wire...use it, always use heavy wire, there's less restriction for the flow of currant and for stepping down you can buy blocks at radio shack or any electrical outlet
Good luck...but please read the blog, I'm saving you money !

[contractor Rob]

None of these guys know what there talking about....sorry guys. You need to read handy Bobs blog on solar charging. He's the man !!
As for your concern about using a No 4 wire...use it, always use heavy wire, there's less restriction for the flow of currant and for stepping down you can buy blocks at radio shack or any electrical outlet
Good luck...but please read the blog, I'm saving you money !

[ciszzco]

Hello Mzbrandi, it would appear that the converter you are referring to is actually an inverter? yes no? .. lets get this right.. solar panel goes to charge controller ( 8 gauge ?), charge controller goes to battery ( 8 gauge? ) .battery connection goes to inverter( this is where it gets interesting.. Dependent on how far you are installing the INVERTER from the battery..is dependent on the wire size.. shorter run then smaller wire... longer run.. bigger fatter wire.. there is an electrical wiring code that will help you). PLEASE NOTE.. the wire size is proportionate to the size of the inverter too.. I have a pure sine inverter 1000 watt inverter and run 6 feet of "O" size welding cable... reason for wire size.. I can upgrade to a 1500 watt or 2000 watt inverter in future without worry of heating up the wire... heated wire equals bad things!!!! fire.etc. if you are running a short run from the battery.. 3-4 feet the #4 will be fine!depending on the size of the inverter.
From the AC side of the plug in on the inverter goes the 120 volt ( 14/2) line. please note Blenders after 5 pm ( marguerta time ) work GREAT on this setup !
enjoy!

[mzbrandi]

Originally Posted by ciszzco

Hello Mzbrandi, it would appear that the converter you are referring to is actually an inverter? yes no? .. lets get this right.. solar panel goes to charge controller ( 8 gauge ?), charge controller goes to battery ( 8 gauge? ) .battery connection goes to inverter( this is where it gets interesting.. Dependent on how far you are installing the INVERTER from the battery..is dependent on the wire size.. shorter run then smaller wire... longer run.. bigger fatter wire.. there is an electrical wiring code that will help you). PLEASE NOTE.. the wire size is proportionate to the size of the inverter too.. I have a pure sine inverter 1000 watt inverter and run 6 feet of "O" size welding cable... reason for wire size.. I can upgrade to a 1500 watt or 2000 watt inverter in future without worry of heating up the wire... heated wire equals bad things!!!! fire.etc. if you are running a short run from the battery.. 3-4 feet the #4 will be fine!depending on the size of the inverter.
From the AC side of the plug in on the inverter goes the 120 volt ( 14/2) line. please note Blenders after 5 pm ( marguerta time ) work GREAT on this setup !
enjoy!

Here is a shot of my TT in Arizona last winter. I am not that big, say 15 ft. The 2 batts are about 4ft from the CONVERTER. My TT does not have an INVERTER installed. I do have a 400w that I plug into a 12v dc power port I installed. The wires coming in from the batts are #4. A bit big I think. The stock light bulbs were incandescent: 8 bulbs. Now all bulbs are LEDs.


Here is a shot of the back of the converter. Hopefully you can see the difference in wire sizes. I really would like to downsize the main batt wires so the wires will fit in the solar controller. At no time will any wire be more than, say 5 ft from the batts.


A view of the electrical under the dinette seat.
Currently I have 2 size 24 12v batts. When these die I would like to in stall 2 size 27s or equal 6v if not to heavy. Though probably will be. I like TV. So I would like to keep up my batts w/o running my Honda 2k gens. This is my home on the road, so I carry a lot of stuff.

I am just trying to wire up my solar controller w/o looking like a drunk did it.


Here is were I would like to install the solar controller.


Thank you everyone for your input.
Brandi


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[Deaver]

Hello mzBrandi

It sounds like you might be a tad confused with the components you have and those you just purchased.

First the Converter, This was included with the rPod when built. It is the interface between 110 AC (Shore Pwr) and the 12 Volts accessories inside your trailer. It has the 4 Gauge wires going to the Batteries. They are the charging wires for when in are on Shore power and also supply the 12V for your interior lights and sockets from the Batteries. DO NOT CHANGE THIS WIRE SIZE that you mentioned.

Now you want to add a Solar Panel and 28 Amp Charge Controller. There should be at least a 10 Gauge pair or better 8 Gauge pair of wires coming from your Solar panel to connect to your charge controller. I would mount the Charge Controller in the same compartment as your original converter provided you can easily run the wires down into the compartment from the solar panel. Next you want to connect a heavy gauge output wire pair to the Battery connections.

In theory, your operation will work like this, Sun shines on your solar panel and the panel converts that energy to Electrical. It then travels down to your Charge Controller and it becomes “regulated” in order to feed and recharge your batteries.

Your existing Battery cabling feeds your “factory” converter supplying energy to your interior lights and 12v sockets.

Does this now make more sense

[rana]

Originally Posted by Deaver

Does this now make more sense

That's exactly what she said. She's not confused about the components, what they do, and what she is trying to accomplish... just the connections.

Dang.. no time. I'll reply later.

[mzbrandi]

Here is the controller. The little silver things at the bottom are the screws for tightening the wire.


Here is the view of where the wires go in.


This is how they say to wire it up.

Another thought, if the converter is in between the batteries and the converter, and the instructions say there is a diode to prevent panels from draining the batteries at night would the controller prevent the converter from charging the batteries. Would the diode be in the panels?

Thanks
Brandi


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[pgandw]

Originally Posted by mzbrandi

Attachment 74582

Attachment 74584
This is how they say to wire it up.

Another thought, if the converter is in between the batteries and the converter, and the instructions say there is a diode to prevent panels from draining the batteries at night would the controller prevent the converter from charging the batteries. Would the diode be in the panels?

I would keep things totally independent. Wire the solar controller directly to the batteries - but with a separate shutoff switch installed between batteries and solar controller.

This way the solar controller is reading the batteries directly, and charging them accordingly.

I would want to avoid charging from the converter and the solar panels at the same time. The simple programming in either device (especially standard RV converter) assumes it is the sole supply of charge energy for the battery. I would not depend on the programming in the converter or the solar controller to know what to do when another device is supplying charge to the battery. Hence, the shutoff in the solar chain. When you are connected to 120V power (or charging from tow vehicle), shut the solar off.

But then I'm not a person who needs a lot of automation.

my thoughts, your choices
Fred W
2014 Rockwood A122
2008 Hyundai Entourage (minivan)

[Deaver]

Originally Posted by mzbrandi

This is how they say to wire it up.

Another thought, if the converter is in between the batteries and the converter, and the instructions say there is a diode to prevent panels from draining the batteries at night would the controller prevent the converter from charging the batteries. Would the diode be in the panels?

Thanks
Brandi


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I would wire it up they way Fred W (pgandw) Suggested. It is the most common and effective method. Keep your existing converter out of the solar loop. Let the converter do its job by being fed from your battery only.

Yes, there is a diode(s) in the junction panel on the panel itself. It minimizes performance drop due to partial shade and prevent battery discharge at night. It is like a switch. It only allows the energy to travel to the battery and not back feed the panel

[WestCoastRV'er]

There are two key items to consider.

1. Use the shortest cable possible from solar panels -> charge controller and charge controller -> battery bank

2. Use the largest cable you can afford to minimize loss. You can use an online calculator to determine loss. Try to keep it under 3%

Be sure to put a cut-off switch between solar panels -> solar charger.

Another option is to use a combiner box located on the roof and run large wire from there to solar charger. If in the future you plan to add another panel, all you need to do is mount and connect to combiner box. This is what I did.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...tml#post813744
.
.

[RPAspey]

Originally Posted by WestCoastRV'er

There are two key items to consider.

1. Use the shortest cable possible from solar panels -> charge controller and charge controller -> battery bank

2. Use the largest cable you can afford to minimize loss. You can use an online calculator to determine loss. Try to keep it under 3%

Be sure to put a cut-off switch between solar panels -> solar charger.

Another option is to use a combiner box located on the roof and run large wire from there to solar charger. If in the future you plan to add another panel, all you need to do is mount and connect to combiner box. This is what I did.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...tml#post813744
.
.

Good advice. If i may add something else..

1. Locate the controller where it'll get some airflow as I'll get warm.
2. Use finger safe fuse blocks as your disconnect. Size fuses according to your load. This will give you a way to disconnect the panels, give some short circuit protection, and provide a transition point to change wire size. Since you should be using the largest wire you can get, it may not fit under the controller lugs. By locating the fuses close, you can run the large gauge wire to the fuses then run a manageable size wire between the fuses and controller. See attached pix.

[mzbrandi]

Hi again. I've gotten my solar hooked up now. It took some doing. I attempted emailing the customer support for Nature Power for information regarding the converter back flowing through the solar controller. Just couldn't get an answer - yes or no. So left that bell-whistle inop. As it sits, it is set up for charging only and not gauging the amount of the load.

I used #10 wire for all leads to the outside of the TT. The wires from the solar panels seem real small like #14 or 12. This size was supplied with the solar panels. The panels will be loose and not attached to the TT. The total distance is no more than 10' from the TT connections. I am running 2 85w panels. The next idea I have is attaching them together and folding them face in and transporting them on my roof rack and putting some kind of eye bolt for security. Hmmmm....gotta think this one out.


This is the solar controller next to the Surge Guard, something else I installed. :-)) the only thing left to do is decide what type of protection and where to install on the solar panel line. Until then everything stays unplugged.

The original lamp were 921s....12 of them in the TT. There are 3 sets of 2 at 2.4 amps a set. The LEDs are .25 amps at .50 amps per set. My batts are 2 ea size 24s. Wish I could go bigger, but I think I am as heavy as I can on the front.

Only time will tell if this will work as expected or needing another panel.

Thanks all for you thoughts and ideas.

Brandi
2012 Jeep unlimited Rubicon
2014 rPod RP 172


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