Breakaway switch

vinr · 05-07-2015, 01:49 PM

The housing on my breakaway switch appears to be melted and I have to force the actuator pin in. I am going to replace it but I'm wondering why it happened and if there is something I can do to prevent it from happening again. The other possibility is that it is just defective. Any thoughts will be helpful.

TURBS · 05-07-2015, 02:01 PM

Pictures?
Was the pin pulled for a lengthy amount of time?

TURBS
08 duramax tuned n modded, 32bhok Sabre
2015 camping "4 nights"

vinr · 05-07-2015, 02:34 PM

I don't have any pics but could get 1. I've only had my 5er since October and have had a couple trips. I thought it was vandalism but after inspecting I realized it is melted.

TURBS · 05-07-2015, 03:00 PM

Can't figure out how it would get melted.....

TURBS
08 duramax tuned n modded, 32bhok Sabre
2015 camping "4 nights"

**Flybob** · 05-07-2015, 03:16 PM

If someone pulled the breakaway cable when it was parked, and the switch was a little corroded it could get hot.

**wmtire** · 05-07-2015, 03:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vinr

The housing on my breakaway switch appears to be melted and I have to force the actuator pin in. I am going to replace it but I'm wondering why it happened and if there is something I can do to prevent it from happening again. The other possibility is that it is just defective. Any thoughts will be helpful.

If you pull the pin for anything other than for testing very briefly, you risk ruining the switch. It happens a lot to those who inadvertently have the pin pulled by hanging the cord up on something accidently......or for those who are under the false premise that you use the breakway switch as a parking brake.

If the pin was pulled/removed for very long then they very commonly do melt with the full 12 volts from the battery being applied....as well as the converter trying to recharge the battery if plugged into a 120 volt outlet at the same time.

Did you pull the pin for some reason? Children are sometimes guilty and I think we even had one member whose dog was doing it.

vinr · 05-07-2015, 08:14 PM

Thanks for the help. Wmtire hit it on the nose. I'm the kid and I do pull it when not in use. I am new to this and didn't realize I was making a mistake. Thankfully its a $20 mistake and not a $2k one. From now on (after replacing the switch) I'll keep the pin in.

**Flybob** · 05-07-2015, 08:39 PM

If the RV was in storage ( no shore power) and the breakaway switch was on long enough to melt it, you most likely killed the battery. Be sure to check the battery. If it is dead, it is unlikely you can salvage it to last very long.

RJHuser · 05-07-2015, 08:47 PM

Also possible that the brake magnets were damaged - burned out or weakened.

Rick

vinr · 05-07-2015, 09:40 PM

Everything else seems to be ok but thanks for the heads-up.

rana · 05-07-2015, 09:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RJHuser

Also possible that the brake magnets were damaged - burned out or weakened.

Rick

X2. If it was engaged long enough to melt your switch it wouldn't be a bad idea to pull your wheels and do a physical check of your mags.

**wmtire** · 05-08-2015, 01:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vinr

Thanks for the help. Wmtire hit it on the nose. I'm the kid and I do pull it when not in use. I am new to this and didn't realize I was making a mistake. Thankfully its a $20 mistake and not a $2k one. From now on (after replacing the switch) I'll keep the pin in.

Hey, it's just growing pains and part of the RV learning curve. It happens. That's what makes these forums so great, and the wealth of knowledge and experience that the members share amongst themselves.

We have even had stories of where dealers have misinformed members to use it as a parking brake contrary to all the documentation that the manufacturers provide.

Bargman - Breakaway Switch

"Completely sealed breakaway switches to automatically set trailer brakes in case of accidental trailer breakaway. Required by law in some states. Emergency use only, not to be used to lock brakes when parked or stored."

As others have stated though, it can damage/weaken other brake items as well as suck a battery down quick... that you may want to check out. If they are good, then as you stated it's just a $20 lesson and not a big deal at all. Simple fix.

EDIT: Just a little extra tidbit for future that you can find in many of the electric brake controllers documentation. If you are testing the breakaway switch, you need to unhook the trailers umbilical cord from your tow vehicle before testing. The reason, is the full 12 volts that are now being provided by the trailers battery to the brakes will also 'backfeed' the brake controller if you are still connected to the tow vehicle and can damage the controller...... as exampled in #2 and #3 under "Important Facts to remember" in the link below.

http://www.tekonsha.com/support/installation/N9030.pdf

**bikendan** · 05-08-2015, 05:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vinr

Everything else seems to be ok but thanks for the heads-up.

You will be lucky if you didn't screw up the brakes.
Did someone suggest doing this, to you?

**KyDan** · 05-08-2015, 06:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flybob

If someone pulled the breakaway cable when it was parked, and the switch was a little corroded it could get hot.

X2 what he said!!

vinr · 05-08-2015, 08:10 AM

No, I did it on my own power, I was just thinking that the 12 v would be applied if there was a breakaway problem. After reading all your posts I should have known. I have looked through my instruction manuals and don't see anything on the breakaway switch but I understand d it now.

**Flybob** · 05-08-2015, 08:31 AM

As a side note, I always keep the breakaway cable easily accessible when I am connecting, disconnection or moving the trailer( with power mover) just in case chocks don't hold or something happens. Just a great backup safety procedure.

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