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Old 09-08-2013, 08:00 PM   #1
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Cool Building a spot for a generator in your fifth wheel

So I've got an idea and I'd like some more info to see if anyone has done this.
I'd like to permanently mount my yamaha 3000 inverter into the front storage compartment on my rockwood 8286ws 5er. I'm finding that I'm not so nimble as I once was, given that the inverter wieght is about 175 pounds , with fuel it's a back breaker trying to move this bad boy around.

I think if I reinforce the floor in the front compartment with a chunk of 1/2 ply wood drop the gen set in, bolt it down then build a custom fit divider wall as the batteries are up front as well, insulate with heat foam. That's my plan, now I've got a couple obstacles to over come, the first is the power jack that would be in the compartment and the horizontal connector rod that joins the two. I'd like to port a fresh air intake tube and run some flex line out for the exhaust.

I don't know if that would be the status of up to CODE or not or even if it can be achieved, but it is one feature I miss from my motor home and was very easy with no lifting or messing around. and unfortunately it's the only one spot I can do it, my trailer does have storage in the back because it's a bunk house model but my kids are back there and I admit my mcgiver skills are excellent Im not willing to because of my children.

So has anyone attempted this wicked idea?
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Old 09-08-2013, 08:13 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Long Hual View Post
So I've got an idea and I'd like some more info to see if anyone has done this.
I'd like to permanently mount my yamaha 3000 inverter into the front storage compartment on my rockwood 8286ws 5er. I'm finding that I'm not so nimble as I once was, given that the inverter wieght is about 175 pounds , with fuel it's a back breaker trying to move this bad boy around.

I think if I reinforce the floor in the front compartment with a chunk of 1/2 ply wood drop the gen set in, bolt it down then build a custom fit divider wall as the batteries are up front as well, insulate with heat foam. That's my plan, now I've got a couple obstacles to over come, the first is the power jack that would be in the compartment and the horizontal connector rod that joins the two. I'd like to port a fresh air intake tube and run some flex line out for the exhaust.

I don't know if that would be the status of up to CODE or not or even if it can be achieved, but it is one feature I miss from my motor home and was very easy with no lifting or messing around. and unfortunately it's the only one spot I can do it, my trailer does have storage in the back because it's a bunk house model but my kids are back there and I admit my mcgiver skills are excellent Im not willing to because of my children.

So has anyone attempted this wicked idea?
I haven't - but I will be interested in seeing the replies.

Have you looked in a factory installed generator installation in a FW - you might get some ideas from that.
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Old 09-08-2013, 08:27 PM   #3
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Not knowing how air tight the front storage unit is i would be careful installing a gas powered unit inside the 5er. You will want to be certain that the CO detector is working properly.
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Old 09-08-2013, 09:00 PM   #4
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Oh boy, LOTS of information to convey...

First look at this thread for one approach (with a Honda 2000i) for some ideas.

Quiet Generator

You CAN accomplish what you want here but some planning and variable to consider and manage. Fresh air in and exhaust and cooling air out plus sound and vibration insulation are the primary ones.

To manage some of this in one swoop, and if you have this generator, I would recommend this solution.





The EFX3 exhaust system is for all of the Yamaha EF3000ise(b) series generators and the SDMO iPRO3000E (UK). Included are the custom molded polycarbonate shroud with riveted-on collar, 32 inch long, 5 inch diameter aluminum tube, worm clamp, and 6 self-tapping screws. Full color instructions are provided.

Services

If not I would recommend that you get one of the generators identified in that link. The little exhaust collector manages the exhaust and ventilation in one package and requires only a 4 inch exhaust duct. Otherwise you are gonna have to manage a very hot exhaust and some ventilation and make up air separately.

Then you have to provide makeup air with another duct in the floor or somewhere to match the 4 in exhaust as a minimum. I would suggest some kind of insulation for noise and padding for vibration (the plywood may be enough).

What you want to do can be done, but the above is the easiest way to make sure the heat doesn't get away from you.

Plenty more to say, but this is a start.

Also, you may want to make sure about that much weight in the rig. but that is another issue.
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Old 09-09-2013, 12:37 AM   #5
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Very cool! I've got the 3000ise and it's totally looking like it may be possible! I won't know exactly until I can ruff mount it in the front to see if it clears everything and I'm just going to duct tape cardboard together about the same size as the inverter to keep my back in place.

So we got the exhaust end out of the way, and I'd likely run it out the bottom. Now the task would be the fresh air intake and good ventilation to keep from over heating. There's even a remote control set up for my inverter that would work great!

As far as fresh air intake I'm not sure about, I just had a quick look at the inverter and it looks like I may be able to hook up another efx3 to the fresh air side as well ! But then again there is still the heat build up that it would create If the compartment were closed so I could always just go with leaving the door open, with the battery power I've got I only use the inverter for appliances and a/c during the day.

I love this inverter but it's big and heavy and I can't even put it in the box of my Silverado and close my box cover for the night. I'm not fond of chaining it up to the bumper overnight like I've seen others do. I'm a play it safe type and the way I see it if a drunk can urinate in your fresh water intake a generator would be even easier to do so. That's why I've got a locking fresh water cap on the way. I haven't seen it done but I've read about it and actually a locking cap is code in Europe. I did see some guys kids putting rocks in his water tank last time out as well!

Thank you for the information so far, I'm appreciative
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Old 09-09-2013, 12:57 AM   #6
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I was just thinking about the other factors like being able to put fuel in it and garbonz noted the extra weight. With the trailer loaded I'm still allowed 1500lbs , however I'm not sure if the front compartment will support the extra 170lbs in it. Something to look closer at. I'm a welder by trade so I'll look a bit better as the last thing I'd want is the floor cracking out and possibly worse.. And as far as strapping it in I think I'd use flat bar straps with ready rod welded to the ends so I could get it out easy for maintenance.
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Old 09-09-2013, 01:12 AM   #7
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What is cool (figuratively and literally) about the generator you have is that it has an internal fan that exits in the same side as the exhaust, so as long as you have a make up air vent in the compartment that is at least 5 inches in diameter, you have all the air and heat problems solved. My 2000i as shown in the link runs cool in the box and the exhaust and ventilation air exit tops out at 160 deg F on high speed. I assume your Yamaha will be similar. You can easily vent the 5 in exhaust hose down thru the floor and provide make up air at some other location nearby but not to close. My installation puts the exhaust out the end of the box and the inlet air at the other side of the generator on the bottom.

As long as you can get the genny into the space and secured, you should not have any problem.. External tank will probably be desirable, with the configuration you have.

Easy Peasy
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