I don't know if this is in the right section or not. I have posted a couple of threads so far looking for advice on my various projects, and this is more or less a follow up on my progress so far. Keep in mind, that I work 50-60 hrs a week, my wife also works full time and we have 3 kids, 2 of whom are still in diapers. I don't get a lot of spare time right now so this is an entire summer of activity done little at a time, and compressed into 1 tiny thread.
My wife and I ordered a new 233S back in February, and took delivery of it in May. Since then, its been my mission to find a place at home to store it. It makes packing, unpacking, and upkeep so much easier. The problem has been that our house does not have a traditional driveway, its on street parking. We do have a small concrete pad in front of our garage that faces the alley but no where near big enough to park an RV on. To further complicate things we have a privacy fence around the entire property. There used to be a gravel pad near the garage that ran parallel to the alley that my grandparents used to park their RV on. They were snow birds. The fence was not there at the time, and the gravel pad has been buried under decades of overgrowth. My first task was to gain access to the old gravel pad by tearing out a section of the fence, and replacing it with a gate. Because of how the opening was situated between the garage and alley, a swing gate was not practical. It either had to swing into the garage, and potential traffic in the alley or it had to swing inward which would not give me enough room to park the camper and still close the gate. It would have to be a sliding gate that slid along side of the garage. I choose a cantilever style gate, which is a gate that rolls from a fixed position, built bigger than the opening and relies on a counter balance to keep the section of the gate over the opening off the ground. This particular gate has two wheeled trolleys that are mounted to the ground, and the gate rides on them via a track that is attached to the bottom of the gate. This kind of gate is ideal for snow as you don't have to shovel it out to open/close it. We use them all over the place at work, its geared more toward industrial settings so I had a difficult time sourcing hardware for it. I did eventually find it at LAornimental.com. The gate hardware was by far the most expensive part of this project but worth it. The gate I would have to custom build as I wanted the opening as wide as possible to give me plenty of room to maneuver. The opening of the gate ended up being 16' wide, which made the gate 24' long. I fabricated the gate out of 1/8" x 2" square tubing. I picked up 8 sticks, 24' long but only 5 of which were used on the gate. The rest was for a utility trailer I was building at the time, and a little extra for miss cuts.
Here is the gate just after I finished putting the first coat of primer on the gate. I added 1" square tabs to the inside laterals of the gate, this will allow me to bolt the privacy panels on later.
Next step was to pour the concrete for my gate hardware. The concrete also serves as the counterbalance for this type of gate and after doing the math, I figured I would need just under 2200 lbs of concrete to support the weight of a 500lb gate over a 16' wide opening. That makes a counterbalance 18" wide, 9' long, and 18" deep. To further support the counterbalance and inure it doesn't move, I drilled into the garage pad and anchored it to that using rebar. Here is the counterbalance framed out, and the tie rods for the hardware are in place. Look at the shovel, that gives you an idea of how deep we had to pour it.
After the concrete is in, have to wait at least a week before i can load the concrete with the weight of the gate. It was during this time that I actually primed the gate.
Here we have the trolleys properly adjusted, leveled and squared. The gate was slid in to place.
This is the upper gate hardware. All the weight of the gate is on the lower trolleys. The only purpose these rollers serve is to keep the gate in an upright position.
Here we were checking the function of the gate, in the fully opened and closed position. The gate rolls surprisingly easy for its size. While its too heavy for my 3 year old to push open, I have no problem pushing it open or closed with one finger. Not only that but it rolls nearly the entire length of travel with a just a small nudge. I stood on the gate at the very end of it and added my extra 250lbs to the gate while my dad pushed it open and closed. We did not notice any sagging what so ever. Not pictured, is that I also had to move the corner fence post that the gate mates to. It had to be moved inward about an inch and a half which puts it slightly out of line with the rest of the fence but its barely noticeable. Also what's not pictured here is that during this time that I had the fence section out and our yard opened temporarily, the neighbors dog got in and killed the kids pet chickens. The kids were devastated. I miss the eggs. But on a brighter note, they have been replaced and the new chicks just started laying.
Here is where the gate rests when it is open. About 6" from the side of the garage, and the gate does not extend past the edge of the garage when fully opened so it does not come into the yard at all. The gate looks as if its sagging in this picture, but the gate is actually sitting perfectly level. The garage is way out of level.
This is a couple of shots with the gate opened and closed, after I finished painting and attaching the privacy panels. The panels are vinyl, and hollow. I attached them to the gate using carriage bolts through the fence panel with a nylock nut on the back side. To ensure my bolts didn't pull through the fence panels, I had to make cores to fill the voids in the empty fence panels and give me a solid point to bolt to. I did this using PVC trim boards cut and planed to size to fit the hollow cavity. They were siliconed into place. It worked well, the panels are solidly attached to the gate.