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Old 08-09-2013, 12:01 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by JCamper View Post
Thanks KootenayWC by chance where did you hard wire your inverter? I see another member on here went to the breaker panel, but mine is tight on space so looking for another option.
Also I still like the idea of killing the trailers converter at the breaker and just running shore cord to the inverter. I won't be running the water heater, fridge, or anything other than 2 TV's and possibly a light or two at most.
I mounted my inverter in the pass-through storage compartment at the front. From there it was less than 5ft to the batteries. You need as short a run as possible from the battery to the inverter. Also, others who have commented on battery drain are correct. If you only use a single 12v battery, battery drain will be an issue when using an inverter. I have 2-230AH 6v batteries and solar to recharge in the morning. I've been extremely happy with the setup.
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Old 08-09-2013, 12:17 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by KootenayWC View Post
I mounted my inverter in the pass-through storage compartment at the front. From there it was less than 5ft to the batteries. You need as short a run as possible from the battery to the inverter. Also, others who have commented on battery drain are correct. If you only use a single 12v battery, battery drain will be an issue when using an inverter. I have 2-230AH 6v batteries and solar to recharge in the morning. I've been extremely happy with the setup.
Thanks sorry for so many questions, but are you then saying that you plug in your shore cord to the inverter? When you say that you have an auto transfer switch I don't understand.
How are you getting the inverter to the outlets in the trailer? Is that where your breaker panel is?
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Old 08-09-2013, 12:36 PM   #23
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Thanks sorry for so many questions, but are you then saying that you plug in your shore cord to the inverter? When you say that you have an auto transfer switch I don't understand.
How are you getting the inverter to the outlets in the trailer? Is that where your breaker panel is?
If you want to just plug your shore power cord into the inverter you don't need a transfer switch. Just plug in and you're good to go. I didn't want to do that. I ran 12g wire from the inverter's output to the power centre in the trailer, thus the need for a transfer switch. I was looking for something a little more integrated, as we rarely plug in to shore power. This way when we need 110v, I just flip on the inverter using the remote switch that came with it.
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Old 08-09-2013, 11:45 PM   #24
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Ok I have done a great deal of research on this set up and have purchased the material to complete the install on my fifth wheel this weekend. I thought I had it all figured out and had a plan in place until I started reading this thread. My brother in-law sells and installs renewable energy systems everyday and I have never heard of having to shutoff all the power to the appliances as people are saying in this thread. I will make a couple calls tomorrow to find out the best way to connect the inverter up from my brother in-law who is an electrical, my father and my close friend who are master electricians. I have attached a link at the bottom of this post for reference and videos as to how to hook an inverter up. I have an automatic transfer switch, a 2500 watt pure sine wave inverter, 2 deep cycle batteries, weather proof NEMA 4 junction boxes as well as proper cable and connectors to complete the install. I will let you guys know how it goes when I am done. Wish me luck.

http://gpelectric.com/video-channel

Cheers
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Old 08-09-2013, 11:58 PM   #25
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Hi KootenayWC,

Are you agreeing that you need to shut off the breakers in the panel as mentioned earlier in the thread or do you leave everything the same as if you were plugged into shore power?

I am not sure if I understood my brother in-law correctly now after reading this thread. I plan on hard wiring everything into the existing electrical system using the automatic transfer switch and inverter. I spoke with the dealer and he said I was all good to go with the install.

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Old 08-10-2013, 12:44 AM   #26
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Hi KootenayWC,

Are you agreeing that you need to shut off the breakers in the panel as mentioned earlier in the thread or do you leave everything the same as if you were plugged into shore power?

I am not sure if I understood my brother in-law correctly now after reading this thread. I plan on hard wiring everything into the existing electrical system using the automatic transfer switch and inverter. I spoke with the dealer and he said I was all good to go with the install.

Cheers
If your inverter is powerful enough you can run the whole RV. I've even heard of guys running the A/C for a short period with a BIG inverter but the draw would be immense and the batteries would last only minutes. When we talk about shutting off breakers for appliances we're thinking about smaller inverters that can't handle the loads, saving the batteries by not running 110 appliances on battery power that could be using gas ( fridge and electric water heater) and especially not running the converter ( trying to charge the battery with the battery doesn't work). Another way to avoid having the inverter power things you don't want is by using a sub panel to isolate the circuits you want to power with inverter. I have no room for a sub panel so I didn't go this route.
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Old 08-10-2013, 07:41 AM   #27
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Remember that watts AC = Watts DC (with a small loss inside the inverter).

A 1200 watt appliance (coffee maker for example) will use 10 amps of AC; BUT when drawing through an inverter you will need (at 12 volts) 100 amps.

Read about Peukert Effect as well.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf What is the Peukert Effect.pdf (164.4 KB, 55 views)
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Old 08-10-2013, 08:34 AM   #28
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Thanks for clarifying that for me. I was missing the reason for shutting down the converter. Thanks.
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Old 05-04-2014, 09:20 PM   #29
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So I have a few pictures to update everyone on the status of the inverter and auto transfer switch install.


First a picture of some of the equipment and tools I used to complete the install.

Click image for larger version

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Next I had to remove the double light switch for the through storage light and the light by the king pin hitch. This was removed so I could cut the hole to install the inverter.

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Once the switch was removed I made a template of the inverter out of cardboard and cut the hole for the inverter in the 3/4" plywood between the through storage and the factory battery storage compartment.

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This was the best location I could find for the inverter due to the close proximity to batteries and the 12 VDC terminals for the camper DC power supply. (I removed the original 12V battery when we bought the camper last summer and installed 2 new 6V golf cart batteries in the front storage compartment.)

The Go Power Automatic Transfer switch is installed behind the finished wall in the through storage compartment. (I forgot to get a picture of the transfer switch install location to post. I will do that when I go to the fifth wheel next time.)

I removed the converter/charger from under the main electrical panel and installed it inside the factory battery compartment with the inverter and tied it into the transfer switch as per the schematics supplied with the Go Power Auto Transfer switch.

Click image for larger version

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I have a few more things to do in order to put the system in operation. If you are interested I will post more pictures and description of the work I complete as I go. Hope you enjoy the post!
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Old 05-04-2014, 11:31 PM   #30
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Bottom line on power is Watts = volts x amps x power factor. If a 120V appliance, such as your CPAP, draws 10 amps on 120V it will draw a little more than 100 Amps on 12 volts. Make sure the wires are plenty big enough and you have a large battery bank that can supply 100 Amps for 8 hours.
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Old 05-04-2014, 11:51 PM   #31
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A bit too late to help you but perhaps other will benefit. Our Samsung is 12vdc. Power supply has an in-line transformer/converter much like the supply for a laptop. I have made up a new cord with a 12VDC lighter plug and appropriate plug for the tv.
Many cpaps can run off a light duty 150 watt inverter. Something to remember during power outages.
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Old 05-05-2014, 09:45 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dlhigdon View Post
So I have a few pictures to update everyone on the status of the inverter and auto transfer switch install.


First a picture of some of the equipment and tools I used to complete the install.

Attachment 51644

Next I had to remove the double light switch for the through storage light and the light by the king pin hitch. This was removed so I could cut the hole to install the inverter.

Attachment 51645
Attachment 51646

Once the switch was removed I made a template of the inverter out of cardboard and cut the hole for the inverter in the 3/4" plywood between the through storage and the factory battery storage compartment.

Attachment 51647
Attachment 51648

This was the best location I could find for the inverter due to the close proximity to batteries and the 12 VDC terminals for the camper DC power supply. (I removed the original 12V battery when we bought the camper last summer and installed 2 new 6V golf cart batteries in the front storage compartment.)

The Go Power Automatic Transfer switch is installed behind the finished wall in the through storage compartment. (I forgot to get a picture of the transfer switch install location to post. I will do that when I go to the fifth wheel next time.)

I removed the converter/charger from under the main electrical panel and installed it inside the factory battery compartment with the inverter and tied it into the transfer switch as per the schematics supplied with the Go Power Auto Transfer switch.

Attachment 51649
Attachment 51650

I have a few more things to do in order to put the system in operation. If you are interested I will post more pictures and description of the work I complete as I go. Hope you enjoy the post!
Just a bit of advice on your install. You really need to make that battery compartment gastight as it once was and most of all do not install any sources of ignition in that space such as switching relays with open contacts. Batteries generate explosive gases and can and will explode in their space with a source of ignition. Ask Herk for a few choice photos. Otherwise it looks good and enjoy the results.
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Old 05-05-2014, 10:55 PM   #33
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Hi VinceU,

Thank you for your concern. I have moved the batteries to the front compartment and vented them to the outside of the camper. All the power is in the old battery compartment for eases of installation. I moved the batteries last year when I bought the fiver. I can upload pictures if anyone would like to see them.
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Old 05-06-2014, 05:39 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F and E Damp View Post
If a 120V appliance, such as your CPAP, draws 10 amps on 120V it will draw a little more than 100 Amps on 12 volts. Make sure the wires are plenty big enough and you have a large battery bank that can supply 100 Amps for 8 hours.
Is this right? Your CPAP draws 10 amps at 120 VAC? 1200 watts seems like a lot of power for a CPAP.

The DW's unit is 200 watts (the humidifier unit I added draws another 150 watts) for a total of 350 watts.

200 watts is 17 amps DC and 350 watts is just under 30 amps DC. The CPAP draw is constant but the humidifier's load varies according to the water temperature (whether it is heating or not).
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