Just did this mod and it turned out great, thanks for the pictures and the rundown of how you did it. I will paint it next spring/summer getting ready to head south in a few weeks and this mod helps and frees up a ton of storage space :<))
Tried to install the fence post sewer storage mod today (at the storage site), after painting it yesterday, but found that there's a gas line in the way, so I'll have to re-make the brackets deeper by 3/4 inch, in order to clear the gas line, and then bolt the fence post to the bracket also.
I've drilled the 5/16" holes for mounting (i'm using 5/16 hex bolts) etc, just need to remake the brackets before I can actually finish the install
How about just notch'n the tube? It'll still fit snugly, and the notch would keep it in the proper position.
You mean actual cut space in the fence post for the gas line ?
I think that, with the gas line intruding into the post by 3/4 inch, the sewer hose wouldn't be able to fit in properly.
The rhino-flex fittings, sitting in the gutter tray, don't have a lot of clearance.
How would I determine the length of pipe I would need? I found a few storage containers on Amazon that look stock and are a little cheaper than piecing this system together. A 64 inch for $54 and a 94 inch for $64. I have a 2016 320A Vengeance.
You mean actual cut space in the fence post for the gas line ?
I think that, with the gas line intruding into the post by 3/4 inch, the sewer hose wouldn't be able to fit in properly.
The rhino-flex fittings, sitting in the gutter tray, don't have a lot of clearance.
It's only on one end and you can get around that by loading from the other end. I would notch the tube.
It's only on one end and you can get around that by loading from the other end. I would notch the tube.
Yes it is only at the door side of the 5er, so I would naturally be loading from the other side anyway, but due to the diameter of the Rhino-flex hose connectors I don't think it would fit under the 3/4" protusion, so I wouldn't be able to fit the hose + extension in the storage post
I don't have any problem with making the brackets deeper, and having a 3/4" gap between the post and the frame.
Are you concerned that it not being snug could cause some extra movement (even if I bolt the post to the brackets) ?
If that's the concern then I could possibly use something (wood?) to pack some of that gap towards either end.
That's what I did since my lower body panels came down past the frame about 3/4 inch I just shimmed with wood, although I did mount it to the 5/5 tube with screws, being careful to screw it to the edge of the tube to avoid any interference with the sewer hose, so it would be between the tube and frame and not fall out.
Isn't Rinio flex a 3" hose? If it is, it'll fit with the hose ends on, just not the adaptor from hose sewer end to sewer pipe.....have no trouble with mine.
Well you guys cost me more money. I went to Lowes and bought the fence post, caps, gutter & internal gutter ends. Then I went to Ace and picked up some tiny eye bolts. I already had the metal strapping too use for the supports. So, now it's done. I'll post pics once it's under the RV.
__________________
Salem 29RKSS Pushing a GMC Sierra 2500HD!
Gotta go campin!
Isn't Rinio flex a 3" hose? If it is, it'll fit with the hose ends on, just not the adaptor from hose sewer end to sewer pipe.....have no trouble with mine.
I have the dump adapter at the other side, but from memory (it's at the storage place atm), the hose would be an okay fit, but the bayonet adapter is about 4" diameter, so that would get stuck behind the gas pipe.
It should only take me 15-20 mins to make a new pair of brackets anyway, then I can decide which to use when I go back to the storage place to finish install.
King Yankee, I did this on my class A. I built my brackets out of threaded rod. It fits just inside the storage doors. Need to have them open to pop the cover off either end.
I took 1" square aluminum tubing and cut two equal lengths for each side. Held them in place with two C clamps and drilled through both pieces and the lip of the frame. I took 8" X 1/4" bolts with nylon lock nuts and put them through the holes with the nuts just to hold them in place(both sides). I then slid the posts between the two aluminum tubes, got them centered and tightened. This tubing will alleviate having to notch the posts around the propane lines.
__________________ 2012 Sandpiper 365SAQ weighing @ 15k, Onan, 2nd air, slide toppers, TST 2013 F350 6.7L Lariat 4x4 CC DRW,Viair 1007, Ride-Rites, Edge CTS, B&W 2001 Chevy 3500CC DRW 4x4, 8.1L, 4.10 gears w/ Detroit TrueTrac 2001 Ford Excursion Limited 4x4 7.3L,V/B Spring Mod, ProComps, Hellwig Swaybar, & other 'Necessities'
I took 1" square aluminum tubing and cut two equal lengths for each side. Held them in place with two C clamps and drilled through both pieces and the lip of the frame. I took 8" X 1/4" bolts with nylon lock nuts and put them through the holes with the nuts just to hold them in place(both sides). I then slid the posts between the two aluminum tubes, got them centered and tightened. This tubing will alleviate having to notch the posts around the propane lines.
Nice idea, actually sounds easier than what I did with folding 1.75" 18ga steel plate (same stuff that doc73 used) to shape, but making the new brackets 3/4" taller than the post, in order to clear the propane line. Anyway, done now, and should hopefully install tomorrow morning.
If I run into any unexpected issues then I'd probably use your idea, since it actually sounds easier to just drill two 5/16" holes (I used bigger bolts) through the square tubing), but hopefully these should work just fine.
4 beam flange clamps and fender washers is what I used. I had to shim it down a couple of inches anyways because of the body panel. Less holes drilled in the critical flange is always a good thing. Plus it gives adjustability.
4 beam flange clamps and fender washers is what I used. I had to shim it down a couple of inches anyways because of the body panel. Less holes drilled in the critical flange is always a good thing. Plus it gives adjustability.
If the chassis frame beam/flange was exposed is have been very tempted to do the same, but I wanted to avoid cutting holes in the under "skin" or trim, plus there's some wood between the frame and the body shell/skin
Linear Mode
