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Old 04-02-2016, 06:07 AM   #21
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I have done the Honeywell mod before, On my 8285 ikws I just decided to spend the extra money and use the Coleman Mach Digital's. Exact wire hook uo , look good and work great, used duct tape on hole in wall to stop draft to Thermostat. Also moved the living area Thermostat from the stairwell to the living area under the Switch panel.
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Old 05-30-2016, 12:26 PM   #22
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A/C short cycling - had a friend who had this issue. Dealership couldn't solve. He finally discovered air coming up through wall where wires ran was affecting thermostat temperature and cycling on/off. He stuffed insulation to fill the hole behind the wall plate to stop air flow. PROBLEM SOLVED


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Old 06-28-2016, 07:23 AM   #23
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hi ladies & gents...my husband & i bought a travel trailer that had very little use but did come with a few issues we're trying to resolve...

the thermostat for the Coleman Mach Roof Top Unit had been pulled off the wall when we got it...we've read a lot about using a digital thermostats which we bought at Amazon...it's a Honeywell RTH111B H/C Digital Thermostat...

i've included pictures of the control board in the ceiling fixture inside the trailer along with pics of the inside of the thermostat and the wires out of the wall where the original thermostat used to be....also we will not use the gas heat, all we want and need is the a/c wired to the thermostat...

as much as i've read, i still am not sure what wires in the wall go to which terminals in the thermostat just to get the a/c and fan working....any help will be greatly appreciated

also, it's my understanding that no 12V power is necessary to the new digital thermostat because it uses batteries


the control board inside the camper in the ceiling


thermostat wires stubbed out of wall


wire terminals inside thermostat

this is from the PDF file attached by rockfordroo showing his wiring....


is the blue wire attached to the B- terminal on my control board the same as the red wire in the above wiring diagram attached to the R terminal in the thermostat

not concerned right now about a toggle switch to control fan speed...we'd just like to get the ac to turn on & off and the fan to work with the thermostat
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Old 06-28-2016, 09:15 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by esty View Post
hi ladies & gents...my husband & i bought a travel trailer that had very little use but did come with a few issues we're trying to resolve...

the thermostat for the Coleman Mach Roof Top Unit had been pulled off the wall when we got it...we've read a lot about using a digital thermostats which we bought at Amazon...it's a Honeywell RTH111B H/C Digital Thermostat...

i've included pictures of the control board in the ceiling fixture inside the trailer along with pics of the inside of the thermostat and the wires out of the wall where the original thermostat used to be....also we will not use the gas heat, all we want and need is the a/c wired to the thermostat...

as much as i've read, i still am not sure what wires in the wall go to which terminals in the thermostat just to get the a/c and fan working....any help will be greatly appreciated

also, it's my understanding that no 12V power is necessary to the new digital thermostat because it uses batteries

(Pics removed, see post above)

is the blue wire attached to the B- terminal on my control board the same as the red wire in the above wiring diagram attached to the R terminal in the thermostat

not concerned right now about a toggle switch to control fan speed...we'd just like to get the ac to turn on & off and the fan to work with the thermostat
I've never messed with the control board, but:

I'm guessing that B and Y on the control board are B and Y on the thermostat. The wire colors match. I'm also guessing that the GH and GL are the high and low speed fan wires, although I would have expected a gray wire on the GL at the control board, and I don't know why the board is marked GH while their ColemanMach thermostat is marked GW.

The wires at the control board are obviously different than the ones at the thermostat, so they've clearly spliced the wiring somewhere in between. However, there are 4 wires at the thermostat that go with the AC and there are 4 wires on the AC's control board, so I'd be pretty confident that what I wrote above is correct. If you want to be 100% sure, get a long piece of wire and a voltmeter. Route the wire from the thermostat location, out a window, and up to the control board. Set the voltmeter to read ohms (resistance). Put one voltmeter lead on one of the wires at the thermostat. Put the other lead on one end of the piece of wire. Put the other end of the piece of wire on the appropriate connection at the control board. If it shows resistance you're good. If not, try each of the connections at the control board until you find the one with resistance.
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Old 06-28-2016, 09:46 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockfordroo View Post
I've never messed with the control board, but:

I'm guessing that B and Y on the control board are B and Y on the thermostat. The wire colors match. I'm also guessing that the GH and GL are the high and low speed fan wires, although I would have expected a gray wire on the GL at the control board, and I don't know why the board is marked GH while their ColemanMach thermostat is marked GW.

The wires at the control board are obviously different than the ones at the thermostat, so they've clearly spliced the wiring somewhere in between. However, there are 4 wires at the thermostat that go with the AC and there are 4 wires on the AC's control board, so I'd be pretty confident that what I wrote above is correct. If you want to be 100% sure, get a long piece of wire and a voltmeter. Route the wire from the thermostat location, out a window, and up to the control board. Set the voltmeter to read ohms (resistance). Put one voltmeter lead on one of the wires at the thermostat. Put the other lead on one end of the piece of wire. Put the other end of the piece of wire on the appropriate connection at the control board. If it shows resistance you're good. If not, try each of the connections at the control board until you find the one with resistance.
no wires from where they come out of the wall to the control board have been spliced....there is continuity in the wires attached to control board and the other end hanging out of the wall...i can access the control board from inside, just a few feet from where i want to install thermostat
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Old 06-28-2016, 10:33 AM   #26
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Then I'd go for it. Pick one of the G wires for the fan. I'd use GH (hi spd).
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2012 Roo19 - hybid (2012-2015)

2016 Mini Lite 2503S - tt (2015 - ???)
2011 Traverse LT, 3.6L, FWD
2009 Silverado 1500 Ext Cab, 5.3L, 4x4, 3.73
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Old 06-28-2016, 10:53 AM   #27
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Then I'd go for it. Pick one of the G wires for the fan. I'd use GH (hi spd).
which terminal on the t-stat do i attach the BLUE (B-), YELLOW (Y), GREEN (GH), WHITE (GH) wires that are attached to the control board

this shows the wires attached to the control board (top pic) and the available terminal on my t-stat (bottom pic)...

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Old 06-28-2016, 11:07 AM   #28
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Look at my PDF drwg. Y to Y, GH to G, you don't need the blue.
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2012 Roo19 - hybid (2012-2015)

2016 Mini Lite 2503S - tt (2015 - ???)
2011 Traverse LT, 3.6L, FWD
2009 Silverado 1500 Ext Cab, 5.3L, 4x4, 3.73
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Old 06-28-2016, 04:06 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by rockfordroo View Post
Look at my PDF drwg. Y to Y, GH to G, you don't need the blue.

i connected the yellow wire to Y on control board and green to GH on control board and not a whimper, no fan, no compressor...nothing at all

if it adds any helpful info, i found this label on the back of the control board when i took it down to check for 110 power (there's 110 at control box)
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Old 06-28-2016, 04:47 PM   #30
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Don't forget you also need the red wire hooked up to the R screw on the thermostat. That's where the +12VDC is coming from. The thermostat will send the +12VDC to the white wire to turn on the furnace and to the yellow wire to turn on the AC.

Only other thing I can think of: When the +12VDC is sent to the AC through the yellow wire, it eventually has to get back to the battery (ground). This is where it gets tricky.

Possibility #1: It's possible that the B connection on the control board is the -12VDC going back to the battery. If it's not connected to anything, you won't get any AC. However, I don't think this is likely; see #2 below.

Possibility #2: It's possible that the B connection on the control board is the -12VDC coming back from the old Coleman Mach thermostat that they ran back to the control board to get it back to ground. This would make some sense if you think of all the thermostat wiring being in a single cable. That would mean the blue connection is -12VDC from the thermostat back to the AC, AND it would mean that there's another -12VDC connection somewhere in the AC where the -12VDC comes out and goes to the battery.

Update: Just looked at my manual, see attached. It says the B connection is the blue wire from the thermostat. That means it's wired like Possibillity #2 above, meaning you don't need to worry about it or hook anything to your blue wire. (As I didn't do anything with the blue wire at my thermostat.) This means there's another -12VDC path somewhere else in the AC unit.

Other than this, I'm out of answers.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Airxcel 8430 Air Conditioner Installation Manual.pdf (480.2 KB, 7 views)
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2012 Roo19 - hybid (2012-2015)

2016 Mini Lite 2503S - tt (2015 - ???)
2011 Traverse LT, 3.6L, FWD
2009 Silverado 1500 Ext Cab, 5.3L, 4x4, 3.73
2016 Silverado 2500HD Dbl Cab, 6.0L 4x4, 4.10
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