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Old 06-28-2016, 06:29 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by rockfordroo View Post
Don't forget you also need the red wire hooked up to the R screw on the thermostat. That's where the +12VDC is coming from. The thermostat will send the +12VDC to the white wire to turn on the furnace and to the yellow wire to turn on the AC.

Only other thing I can think of: When the +12VDC is sent to the AC through the yellow wire, it eventually has to get back to the battery (ground). This is where it gets tricky.

Possibility #1: It's possible that the B connection on the control board is the -12VDC going back to the battery. If it's not connected to anything, you won't get any AC. However, I don't think this is likely; see #2 below.

Possibility #2: It's possible that the B connection on the control board is the -12VDC coming back from the old Coleman Mach thermostat that they ran back to the control board to get it back to ground. This would make some sense if you think of all the thermostat wiring being in a single cable. That would mean the blue connection is -12VDC from the thermostat back to the AC, AND it would mean that there's another -12VDC connection somewhere in the AC where the -12VDC comes out and goes to the battery.

Update: Just looked at my manual, see attached. It says the B connection is the blue wire from the thermostat. That means it's wired like Possibillity #2 above, meaning you don't need to worry about it or hook anything to your blue wire. (As I didn't do anything with the blue wire at my thermostat.) This means there's another -12VDC path somewhere else in the AC unit.

Other than this, I'm out of answers.
it's my understanding, after quite a bit of reading, when using the battery operated, digital t-stats, no on-board 12 volt power from the power center is required

there isn't a red wire connected at the control board to the ac...just blue, yellow, green & white....

since there wasn't a thermostat in it when we brought it home, i have no idea what was connected at the original thermostat but assume it was the same 4 wires...plus, maybe, likely a 12 volt wire & ground if it was an original, manually operated t-stat
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Old 06-28-2016, 06:54 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by esty View Post
it's my understanding, after quite a bit of reading, when using the battery operated, digital t-stats, no on-board 12 volt power from the power center is required

there isn't a red wire connected at the control board to the ac...just blue, yellow, green & white....

since there wasn't a thermostat in it when we brought it home, i have no idea what was connected at the original thermostat but assume it was the same 4 wires...plus, maybe, likely a 12 volt wire & ground if it was an original, manually operated t-stat
Hope this isn't confusing. Look at my PDF. You need the red wire's power (+12VDC) to be supplied to either the furnace or the AC to TURN THEM ON and power them. The thermostat does this by routing that red wires +12VDC to either the furnace wire (white) or the AC wire (yellow). The battery in the Honeywell just runs the thermostat's brains that routes the +12VDC from the red wire to the furnace (white wire) or the AC (yellow wire).

The Coleman Mach thermostat, on the other hand, has no batteries, so it also uses the +12VDC from the red wire to power it's brains AND therefore also needs a ground (blue wire) for the -12VDC for the brains to get back to the battery.

In other words, power goes INTO the thermostat from the red wire and then goes OUT of the thermostat to the furnace (white) or the AC (yellow), whichever one the thermostat is calling for.

The furnace and AC each have their own ground wires back to the battery.
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Old 06-28-2016, 07:11 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by rockfordroo View Post
Hope this isn't confusing. Look at my PDF. You need the red wire's power (+12VDC) to be supplied to either the furnace or the AC to TURN THEM ON and power them. The thermostat does this by routing that red wires +12VDC to either the furnace wire (white) or the AC wire (yellow). The battery in the Honeywell just runs the thermostat's brains that routes the +12VDC from the red wire to the furnace (white wire) or the AC (yellow wire).

The Coleman Mach thermostat, on the other hand, has no batteries, so it also uses the +12VDC from the red wire to power it's brains AND therefore also needs a ground (blue wire) for the -12VDC for the brains to get back to the battery.

In other words, power goes INTO the thermostat from the red wire and then goes OUT of the thermostat to the furnace (white) or the AC (yellow), whichever one the thermostat is calling for.

The furnace and AC each have their own ground wires back to the battery.
even though the red wires isn't connected to any terminal at the control board, it should be connected at the thermostat...

that confuses me even more because the red wire isn't used on the control board

EDIT...sorry, i'm confused...are you saying that i still need an outside source of 12 volts in the red wire in addition to the t-stat batteries
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Old 06-28-2016, 08:26 PM   #34
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OK, hopefully this won't confuse you even more. If it does, I think you're going to have to find someone to help you "in person."

I'm assuming the wires you show as "stubbed out from the wall" is from where the thermostat is to be mounted. Assuming someone just "removed" the original thermostat, it should be safe to assume that all the wires run to, and are appropriately attached to, whatever they were attached to when the TT was built. I've attached another pic, a modified version of the one you already have. I've removed the Coleman Mach stuff and showed the connections to your AC and Furnace, with arrows that point in the direction the electrical current is flowing. Normally, you only need 6 wires. Not sure why your cable has 8 of them. And in fact, with the Honeywell, you only need 5 wires.

The red wire should be coming from a fuse in your converters fuse box. This is where our power comes from. The thermostat is basically a bunch of switches and some electronic brains that tell them when to close (turn on) and open (turn off). So pretend that there are a number of "switches" in the thermostat that are all hooked to that red wire and send that wire's power to all of the other thermostat connections.

So when the thermostat wants to turn on the furnace, it will close a "switch" inside it and send the power from that red wire to W connection, through the White wire to the furnace and the furnace will turn on.

When the thermostat wants to turn on the AC, it will do TWO things. It will close one "switch" inside it and send power from that red wire to the Y connection, through the yellow wire to the Y connection on the control board, and this will start the AC compressor. At the same time, with the thermostat's fan switch in AUTO, another "switch" inside the thermostat will close and send red wire power to the G connection. This will flow through EITHER the green wire to start the fan in hi speed OR the grey wire to start the fan in low speed fan DEPENDING on which one you've hooked up to the G connection. DO NOT hook BOTH of them to the G connection. If you want to be able to chose which speed, you'll need to wire the grey and green to a switch as shown in the drawing you already have.

If you move the thermostat's fan switch to ON, it will close the thermostats inside "switch" to send power to the G connection irrespective of whether the thermostat wants heat or AC or neither. This allows you to turn on the fan at anytime you want.

Now, the blue wire is not needed anymore. In the Coleman Mach thermostat, the 12VDC from the red wire also powered the "brains" and needed to get back to the battery somehow. It did this by flowing through the blue wire to the AC control board. But since your Honeywell has batteries (and is effectively just a bunch of internal "switches") you don't need this anymore.

I've shown two black wires, one on the AC and one on the furnace. This is the wire that the power we're sending to them from the thermostat gets back to the battery. We don't really know where these wires are and we don't need to know.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Furnace-AC wiring.pdf (238.8 KB, 17 views)
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Old 06-28-2016, 08:58 PM   #35
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thank you for being so patient...i think what i'm missing and need is a red wire from the converter/charger to the thermostat...there are a few wires at the same hole in the wall and i know some are DC powered....one of them must have been for the old thermostat and i can use it for my thermostat

so, do this...

* connect the DC a powered wire from charger/converter to the RC terminal on t-stat

* connect yellow wire to Y terminal on t-stat

* connect green or grey (not both) to one or the other, GH or GL (i'll use GH)

we may do the toggle switch mod after i get the unit running to have GH-HI and GL-LO fan speeds


just to make sure i've got this in my head, the dc powered wire from the charger/converter originates at a 15 amp fuse then directly to the RC terminal on the t-stat and no ground wire is necessary


i think i was misunderstanding what i've been reading about the digital thermostats and 12 volt power...i was missing the part where 12 volts from the charger/converter is still necessary

thank you very very much and i'll let you know what happens in the next day or so....
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Old 06-28-2016, 09:03 PM   #36
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esty- By George, I think you've got it!

Break a leg!!
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2016 Mini Lite 2503S - tt (2015 - ???)
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Old 06-28-2016, 09:24 PM   #37
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Break a leg!!
not a leg but i did break my ankle last saturday and have this nice purple cast and a shiney new pair of crutches that i've got to live with for the next 6-8 weeks

thanks again for all the help...
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Old 06-29-2016, 12:39 PM   #38
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alright, we connected a red wire with 12 volt power from the charger/converter to the R/RC terminal on the t-stat

he connected the yellow wire to the Y terminal on the t-stat

and connected the green wire to the G terminal on the t-stat

nothing, no fan, no compressor humming, nothing at all...there is 12 volts at the RC terminal in the t-stat
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Old 06-29-2016, 01:34 PM   #39
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more info...removed the wires from t-stat...if i touch the red wire to the green wire the fan should come on, it doesn't

if i touch red wire to yellow wire compressor should come on...it doesn't

there is continuity in all wires between t-stat and ac control board terminals
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Old 06-29-2016, 04:04 PM   #40
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Are you sure you've got 12 volts at the red wire? Since the blue wire (which you don't really need) still goes back to the control board and therefore should go back to the battery via the AC unit, you should be able to put your voltmeter leads between the red wire and blue wire and get a reading of 12 volts. If not check the fuse at the converter (whoever disconnected the old T-stat may have blown the fuse).

(I'm also assuming you know that the converter/battery is supplying 12 volts to all the fused circuits.)
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2016 Mini Lite 2503S - tt (2015 - ???)
2011 Traverse LT, 3.6L, FWD
2009 Silverado Ext Cab, 5.3L, 4x4, 3.73
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