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Old 10-29-2013, 11:02 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by jeerme View Post
If you open up the low point drains and crack open the pressure relief valve on the water heater won't the water heater drain thru the low point drains?
As far as I understand how another member has explained, doing this open the possibility of sucking grit and muck and pieces of anode into the water system where it can cause you angst and woe. Water heaters should be drained via their drains and not the low point drains.

2012 Ram 3500 DRW/crew cab/long bed/4x4/4.10 gears pulling a 2017 Spartan 1245 by Prime Time
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Old 10-29-2013, 11:06 AM   #12
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It is a nice mod, but I'll continue to drain the tank by removing the anode and sucking the junk out with the bead blaster nozzle. There is always junk in there from what I've found out if the anode is doing it's job. I drain about 4 times a year.

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Old 10-30-2013, 02:31 PM   #13
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I also flush out my motor home hot water tank periodically during the camping season. For use with my setup, I fabricated a “prototype” flushing device that included a tube (smaller diameter than the tank opening) that extended into the back of the tank. The device screwed into the end of the “T” when the anode rod was removed. It was designed so that a garden hose could be attached by means of a male hose fitting. When water pressure was applied, water flowed through the tube into the back of the tank. By turning on the water full force, debris in the tank were suspended by the resulting turbulence and flowed out the open boiler valve. By attaching a hose to the boiler valve during this operation, the effluent can be directed away from the motor home thus preventing water from running down the side.

I am reasonably certain that the technique removes most of the tank debris because the effluent would appear somewhat cloudy at the start of the operation and would clear up after a few minutes of flushing. I no longer have the “prototype” and am planning on making a “new and improved” version for next year.

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