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Old 10-28-2013, 02:47 PM   #1
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Drain for hot water tank

In order to facilitate draining the Suburban hot water tank in my 2011 Sunseeker 2300, I installed a “T” on the tank drain using a close nipple. I then installed the anode rod through the long axis of the “T” and a boiler valve to the other opening. I had to temporarily remove the shroud on the burner and move the burner tube slightly up out of the way to make the connections.

With this setup, it is easy to drain the tank after each usage, if so desired. For draining, I attach a hose to the threaded part of the valve to prevent water from running down the side of the motor home. By opening the boiler valve and the tank pressure relief valve, the tank empties (to the level of the outlet) in a few seconds. The anode rod can also be removed as usual for inspection and for introducing a small hose to flush out any debris. By inserting a small siphon hose, it is possible to remove virtually all the water from the tank.

The setup does not interfere with the replacement of the cover.

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Old 10-28-2013, 02:56 PM   #2
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Very nice Mod
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Old 10-28-2013, 03:11 PM   #3
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X2 Very Nice
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Old 10-28-2013, 03:14 PM   #4
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Al, does using all of this change the electrolytical reaction (think that's the correct terminology) required? The setup does look good.

The link below shows how to test:

Replace anode rod

Caution, tank metal and anode metal must meet, so rod will work. Test if anode is electrically connected to tank by testing continuity between anode head and pipe nipple. Current must be able to pass between steel tank and anode rod or anode will not work.
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Old 10-28-2013, 03:56 PM   #5
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Thanks all for the positive comments.

That's a good question “wmtire” regarding possible changes to the electrolytic properties of the system and one I had also considered. I am assuming that, since I still have metal-to-metal contact between the tank and the anode rod, the rod will continue to serve as a source of sacrificial metal. I made the change about a year ago. As far as I can tell, the anode seems to be eroding at the same rate as it was before I made the modification. And, so far, the tank has not sprung any leaks!!

Perhaps someone with more expertise in this matter can comment further.
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Old 10-28-2013, 04:32 PM   #6
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Wmtire:

As you suggested, I measured the continuity between the tank and the threads at the end of the “T.” (The anode rod is currently removed.) The continuity is good. I will also measure it when I install the anode rod next spring to ensure that a good electrical connection is made with the rod. Thanks for your input.
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Old 10-28-2013, 04:33 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Al Fresco View Post
Wmtire:

As you suggested, I measured the continuity between the tank and the threads at the end of the “T.” (The anode rod is currently removed.) The continuity is good. I will also measure it when I install the anode rod next spring to ensure that a good electrical connection is made with the rod. Thanks for your input.
Thanks for the follow up Al. I may be copying your mod.
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Old 10-29-2013, 11:29 AM   #8
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If you open up the low point drains and crack open the pressure relief valve on the water heater won't the water heater drain thru the low point drains?
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Old 10-29-2013, 11:34 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al Fresco View Post
In order to facilitate draining the Suburban hot water tank in my 2011 Sunseeker 2300, I installed a “T” on the tank drain using a close nipple. I then installed the anode rod through the long axis of the “T” and a boiler valve to the other opening. I had to temporarily remove the shroud on the burner and move the burner tube slightly up out of the way to make the connections.

With this setup, it is easy to drain the tank after each usage, if so desired. For draining, I attach a hose to the threaded part of the valve to prevent water from running down the side of the motor home. By opening the boiler valve and the tank pressure relief valve, the tank empties (to the level of the outlet) in a few seconds. The anode rod can also be removed as usual for inspection and for introducing a small hose to flush out any debris. By inserting a small siphon hose, it is possible to remove virtually all the water from the tank.

The setup does not interfere with the replacement of the cover.
Nice neat mod, but don't see the need when pulling the anode is so easy and has to be done anyway for inspection.
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Old 10-29-2013, 12:00 PM   #10
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Nice neat mod, but don't see the need when pulling the anode is so easy and has to be done anyway for inspection.
I think the anode only needs to be inspected once, maybe twice a year. Some drain their water heater after each use and this would save time for those.
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