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Old 11-13-2012, 09:45 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by jamesroadking View Post
Could you just lay down 16 inch square paving bricks that you can buy at Home Depot?

Pavers are about 1 1/2" thick and will crack easily. They also require good base prep. Concrete is cheaper. Pavers sound cheap until you do all the work underneath, then it cost's more than concrete.
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Old 11-13-2012, 09:48 AM   #12
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I put in an asphalt pad and was told to let it cure 48 hrs before i parked on it. the trailer still has a tendency to sink even a year later. chose asphalt because it was cheaper than putting down concrete. i'm not so sure of that claim now.

They probably did not do any prep to the ground (minus make it level).

That will lead to sinking problems every time.
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Old 11-13-2012, 09:58 AM   #13
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If you are going the side yard way, then do it right. Spend the $$ and hire a paving contractor to put either a concrete pad or asphalt driveway extension in the yard. Get a few estimates and get it done professionally. You won't be sorry and I seriously doubt it will affect property value since there's a lot of guys like myself that would see it as a plus to do oil and tire changes, added car parking or whatever.
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Old 11-13-2012, 11:55 AM   #14
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1. concrete only
2. Good resale feature
3. home is the best storage
4. Get electrical ( true 30/50amp) outlet by electrician
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Old 11-13-2012, 09:48 PM   #15
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Being in oklahoma we have many of the same weather caracteristics.

Asphalt is not a good product for anything other than high traffic, high impact areas. Consult an engineer or someone in the construction industry( other than a potential contractor that you will use).

Asphalt is good for what I mentioned above and that is it, period. Anybody that says any different does not have any actual road or heavy construction knowledge at all. No matter how you prep the underlayment,- in 6" letts compacted to 95% at a depth of 18", stabilized with lime or flyash, depending on soil type, then a 9" compacted gravel base (which will cost as much as the overlay) you will still have problems with the adphalt sinking under load even under short term( even as little as a couple minutes). Think of asphalt as a block of tar- you can beat the fire out of it with a hammer with minimal displacement. Apply even a 20lb constant load in a fist size area for a short period of time and it will sink into the block. Asphalt never cures, not made to.

All that said to say concrete is a much better material to use as a parking area. Also a plug in would also be awsome next to the pad. Lowes has pre-made rv panels with a 30 & I think also a 20amp already installed in a box.
Sorry bout being long winded- hope it helps.
Ps. More cement is always nice!!! But I live in the country so it really beats dirt!!
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Old 11-13-2012, 10:53 PM   #16
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Could you just lay down 16 inch square paving bricks that you can buy at Home Depot?
Nope the ordnance says it must be asphalt or concrete, but cold be stone if it existed prior to the ordnances' imposition. However it wasn't and they know it since the house used to owned by the city manager.
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Old 11-13-2012, 11:20 PM   #17
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We have ours in a storage lot. Our city is so crazy that a travel trailer, motor home or any towed unit can only be parked for 30 minutes on the city street. Forget the driveway they have to be parked so that they can not be seen from the street, BUT not behind a structure. Must be in an enclosed structure, electricity to the structure is permitted but no sewer or water service allowed. Oh! did I also say the structure can NOT stick out past the front of the house and the neighbors have to agree to the structure??? Will be glad when start full timing it, can't start soon enough.
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Old 11-13-2012, 11:41 PM   #18
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We have ours in a storage lot. Our city is so crazy that a travel trailer, motor home or any towed unit can only be parked for 30 minutes on the city street. Forget the driveway they have to be parked so that they can not be seen from the street, BUT not behind a structure. Must be in an enclosed structure, electricity to the structure is permitted but no sewer or water service allowed. Oh! did I also say the structure can NOT stick out past the front of the house and the neighbors have to agree to the structure??? Will be glad when start full timing it, can't start soon enough.
To think I was mad about our crazy ordances! I defiantly feel for you. Some rules are good but some areas get a little carried away for sure.
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Old 11-14-2012, 09:56 AM   #19
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I will echo the value of having the camper near the house. Not only is it easier to pack/unpack, but I can't tell you how many times we've gone to the store and bought stuff for the camper, bagged it sepparatly then thru the bag in the camper on the way into the house.

It's also come in handy for guest overflow quarters.

As far as resale..not a big problem here in Michigan, in fact it often helps resale....In these parts, if you don't have a camper, you probably have a boat (or both).

And if you decide to do it, make sure they slope the pad away from the house for rain water runoff.
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Old 11-14-2012, 10:41 AM   #20
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Pad for trailer

We had a pop-up, 12 years ago. We put it on loose stone, hard surface, and the town said NO. Has to be a hard surface, so.....we went to paver stones. The stones were all right for awhile until they began to sink into the soil. Trailer got crooked, sinking in one corner, and town said NO to the paver stones. Finally gave in and had a pad of concrete put in, and town made sure it was proper. Two years later we trade for a Casita 17LD. Had to go back to pavers for 8 inches more to get the tounge back behind the front of the house. Town did not know about the pavers. This year we bought the 22 foot Rockwood Mini Lite, and the pavers were no good as the new trailer weight drove them into the ground, and the code gang saw the trailer was on a angle. Good buy pavers and now everyone is happy with the extended pad.
So bite the bullet and put in the concrete pad.
Robert
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