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Old 06-02-2014, 08:34 AM   #11
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OldCoot - thanks for the drawing. How many of your projects start as drawings vs. you standing in your garage looking at your parts?

I really like the idea of hanging the back end by the handle. I think that'll make it to hit and should hold it pretty securely without worrying about side to side movement.

The only wildcard is the front end. I have to look and see how much room I have to slide the table in. My storage hatch doesn't extend the whole way up to the ceiling, so I'll either have to set it back far enough (which could make it unwieldy for getting it up there) or think up a different front side.

I do greatly thank you for your time thinking this up and throwing the idea out there.
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Old 06-03-2014, 02:04 AM   #12
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I was thinking about doing the same but only on the floor by making a sleeve for our table to fit in. As of now we have to put the table in first and then load the rest of the stuff on top which makes for a lot more work when you only want to pull out a few things. Our table is 6' but doesn't fold but I have the same concern as you with the door to ceiling height difference.
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Old 06-05-2014, 01:07 PM   #13
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Hang folding table in basement storage

CBergstrom, here's my plan for the floor:
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I had the same issue with my zero gravity chairs. Everything went on top of them to the point I begrudgingly would get then out.

Here are really crappy pics of the ceiling:
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Looking from the inside out, it's about 7" difference from the hatch door to the ceiling:
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I have a drain pipe about 24" off the wall of the basement (closing off the space under the stairs) about 40" back from the hatch opening/camper side:
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The hatch opening is about 24" tall by 46" wide (using my 2' level as a measuring stick).

And, here's the mess I'm trying to tame:
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Old 06-05-2014, 02:24 PM   #14
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That looks exactly like Glenn Jurcyzk's basement that we put the sliding drawer in. Plumbing in the ceiling, etc. His rolling shelf ended up 35-1/2" wide and 52" long. Works great. He has the problem of a large door on the road side and a small door on the other because of his furnace. If you have a large door on both sides, it would work even better as the shelf could roll outside both doors for access from either side.
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Old 06-05-2014, 02:27 PM   #15
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That looks exactly like Glenn Jurcyzk's basement that we put the sliding drawer in. Plumbing in the ceiling, etc. His rolling shelf ended up 35-1/2" wide and 52" long. Works great.
Very cool. I've started on my over-built wood shelfs. We'll see how I like it. The worst case, I rip it out, have some expensive firewood and then come visit you!

I'm a little concerned about the ceiling dimensions with hanging the table. I guess I could go below the plumbing with the idea of hanging the rear end of the table by the handle.

How would you secure the aluminum straps to the ceiling? Just pop-rivets (if so, what size)?
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Old 06-05-2014, 02:45 PM   #16
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Very cool. I've started on my over-built wood shelfs. We'll see how I like it. The worst case, I rip it out, have some expensive firewood and then come visit you!

I'm a little concerned about the ceiling dimensions with hanging the table. I guess I could go below the plumbing with the idea of hanging the rear end of the table by the handle.

How would you secure the aluminum straps to the ceiling? Just pop-rivets (if so, what size)?
I used hex head self drilling #10 x 3/4 screws, to hold up my garage door track, but 3/16" pop rivets would work or just a bolt clear thru and get both ends of the strap at once like the line shows going clear thru. # 10 or #12 x 2" should be plenty long.
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Old 06-05-2014, 03:19 PM   #17
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I used hex head self drilling #10 x 3/4 screws, to hold up my garage door track, but 3/16" pop rivets would work or just a bolt clear thru and get both ends of the strap at once like the line shows going clear thru. # 10 or #12 x 2" should be plenty long.
Ahh, ok- I see the "like the line shows going clear thru" now. These line drawings are a new thing for me.
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Old 06-05-2014, 04:16 PM   #18
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What about using 1x solid pine instead of 2x. It would save some weight and give you a little more fudge room. Its not like your supporting a lot of weight.
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Old 06-05-2014, 04:27 PM   #19
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ependydad
What about using 1x solid pine instead of 2x. It would save some weight and give you a little more fudge room. Its not like your supporting a lot of weight.
I hear you, I was just worried that 1x wasn't going to hold up to the "not gentleness" that my family is known for. In hindsight, it sure seems like it would have been plenty.

I've already bought the wood and started cutting it up. Tonight I cut the square for the plywood top and then I'll start screwing it together.
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Old 06-05-2014, 04:34 PM   #20
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Look forward to seeing finished product
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