Help with new leaf springs

[PSUFan1]

Need some help selecting new leaf springs.

I have a 32 foot travel trailer with a gvwr of 7500 lbs

I already upgraded to MORryde cre2-35 cre 3000 hangers and the heavy duty shackles. The existing leaf springs are 1750 lbs but the wheel well clearance is only 2-2.5 inches which is below the specifications of MORryde of 3 inches. Therefore I am looking to upgrade the leaf springs which have flatten out ( pics attached).

The garage that installed the MORryde setup said they didn’t think new leaf springs are necessary but I have taken measurements of the wheel well and confirming with MORryde I need to replace them

Today I went to a second garage to look at the springs and they called their spring shop and they are recommending 3,500 lb springs. I’m concerned that they will be too stiff. The whole reason of the MORryde upgrade was to smooth out the ride. Do you agree it would be too stiff.

Others that have a similar trailer to me have upgraded to 2,200 lbs to 2,500 lbs. I mentioned that to the garage and he said he trusts the Spring shops recommendation.

Thoughts?

[Brother Les]

My thoughts are that you are mixing two different questions.
You want more clearance in the wheel well area from 2.5 inches to 3 inches or more. And then you are looking at increasing the handling weight of each set of spring from 1,750 to higher. You (as I) have very wide set axles. If one tire goes flat (or blows) and goes down, this will force the other tire to go up into the wheel well and rub the wheel well and could (will) damage that area of the wheel well, if it the blow out is fast and unknown to the driver and you go some distance (been there and done that). So, the more clearance the better to 'play' with. Your spring 'weight' is correct for what you have and beefing up the spring 'weight' is an after market choice. (Do you plan on overloading your trailer?) Looking at your picture your springs (as mine) are above the axles. You wish more clearance between the wheels and the wheel well... Would it not be easier to put an inch shim between the axle and the spring assembly and buy longer u-bolts? I have not researched this, but it would give you what you want, without maximum changes. If you add the higher weight springs, will they have more leafs on them to gain the height increase that you want? The higher weighted springs will be stiffer to hold more weight, but be very aware that if/when one tire goes down, that the other tire WILL pivot up into that tires wheel well area. Increasing the inches between the tire(s) and the wheel well on the wide axle set up is a good idea if can do it and not change the dynamics too much of pulling the unit.

[babock]

Springs are typically rated per spring. Of course the spring shop may be talking per pair.

Your trailer has a GVW of around 8000#. I would be putting no more than the 2500# or 2200#. This is the link for the current trailer. Yours may be lower. https://www.granddesignrv.com/showro...orplans/2800bh

I would not be putting shims in. Your leaf springs look flat but that is based on this picture. Would be nice to see a better picture. Have you ever weighed your fully loaded trailer? Hopefully, you aren't overloading it.

I did the Morryde 3000 and lubricated bolts. Not sure I can tell if it rides softer. I would have had to ride in the trailer before and after. Definitely a lot less squeaking.

Originally Posted by Brother Les

You (as I) have very wide set axles.

His are normal axle spacing. You can't even get the Morryde 3000 for wide set axles.

[PSUFan1]

I have not weighed my trailer but I don’t think we are over weight.

Thanks for your thoughts.

[BigRockr]

No one thinks they are over weight. Get weighed. It's easy and quick if a scales is close. Making decisions based on facts really cleaned up a lot of issues I was having, In life and camping.

Weight Police Badge #1955.

[Photo Lab]

Yep, I don't think I'm over weight, 'till the DW reminds me!
Seriously, Les makes a very good observation, that adding a shim (think "pickup jacking up block") on each side, between the axle and the spring will probably be the easiest, safest modification. From what I can see of the setup, you might not even need to add new U bolts!

As an aside:
The Mor-Ryde suspension has changed considerably over the years, or possibly they have two systems now. Long ago, and far away, I owned a Holiday Rambler fifth wheeler, with Mor-Ryde suspension, and on that particular rig, the suspension used rubber torsion blocks, with steel plates vulcanized to them, arranged to give independant suspension for each wheel. No axle, as we think of them now. It pulled very smoothly, and never caused any trouble, although I did look into new "torsilastic" blocks when it was getting old, although they weren't needed. I believe they cost about $20 each at the time, $160 for the whole set. At that time, they were offering factory conversions from conventional (steel spring) suspension to their system. Nioce setup, but I haven't seen a trailer with it since.

[pdqparalegal1]

Seriously, Les makes a very good observation, that adding a shim (think "pickup jacking up block") on each side, between the axle and the spring will probably be the easiest, safest modification. From what I can see of the setup, you might not even need to add new U bolts!
Need to give credit for the above to a prior post Didn’t want to copy.entire post


I had to raise mine for tire clearance. Made 1.75 aluminum spacer blocks. 1.75 was the highest I could go as springs were that width. Remember you will need to modify blocks to have a proper size hole on one side for the “locator pin” and a proper size pin on the other side to keep the spring and axel located properly. I did have to get new longer U bolts. Google it. Found a company that made them the proper length and width for the axle. These are high strength U bolts, not threaded rod. Wish I could find the pictures, would make it clearer.
Good luvk