Here are some rough photos of the 'bump block' that I made for my truck and trailer. I got the ideas from other posts on this forum... The specific details and measurements will vary widely for each instance as most people's hitch are probably different from my own, but the concept is what is important – and VERY helpful.
The hitch without the bump block:
The hitch with the bump block slipped onto the hitch:
The bump block itself:
The key feature (adjustable plastic wedges inserted between the aluminum and wood block, and the wood being tapered bottom to the flat spot) not in previous posts. I have never adjusted the wedges since I made the bump block, but wanted to do so if needed.
How I use it:
a) I painted the trailer's hitch ball white, so that I can see this clearly in low lighting conditions, in my truck's backup camera.
b) I painted the top of the Bump Block white, so I can watch them line up, using the backup camera.
c) In the photo above, notice that the wood is 'hollowed out' (with a tablesaw, or mitresaw), so that the lip of the trailer's hitch cup is forced/jiggled/guided right into the last ⅛ inch of dead center of the hitch ball.
d) I back the truck up (VERY slowly!!!) such that the two white parts are lined up, and so that the truck's hitch Bump Block
very gently 'bumps' into the cup of the tow trailer. Set the parking lever, and brake, and go outside to check.
e) If all looks reasonable, I start lowering the trailer onto the hitch. This is where the 'taper', 'curve-y' part comes in. The wooden part is tapered such that lowering the trailer actually releases the pressure on the wooden Bump Block, and gives the trailer ball just enough wiggle room to seat properly.
f) Assuming correct connect, I slip off the Bump Block and store in the trailer basement.
With practice, I can get a proper connection about ½ the time on the first try, without having to move the truck again. Sadly, my truck backup camera (on the tailgate) is not centered on the tailgate, and therefore my view of the target area is subject to a bit of interpretation. Thanks to HangDiver's idea, I plan to use a MagicMarker to scribe black lines on the white paint, which will show me the correct left-to-right landing zone.
Even more sadly, I can't think of a way to make this a commercial product, since there are so many types and brands of hitches to accommodate. Not that I want to go into business with this, but that I would have preferred to purchase one ready-made...
Hopefully, these photos and explanations will help someone else with one of the stressful aspects of travel trailering.
Rennie