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Old 02-07-2011, 08:40 AM   #31
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Old 02-07-2011, 10:29 AM   #32
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I've had exactly the same questions as MtnGuy. I've tried to explore the issue on forums and get many different answers. The 3-stage converter on the trailer would seem like a decent way to charge (when running the generator) at 55 amps. BUT even when my batteries are quite low, the charger never seems to go into the highest level of charge. (I've NEVER seen it go into the 14.4 volt mode; only 13.6) So it seems to take forever to charge. The direct ouput from my EU2000i doesn't seem like a great idea. Only 10 amps and totally unregulated. So, it is not really a battery charger; just a 12 volt power source. It wouldn't seem to be very fast and you would have no idea as to the state of charge of your battery. It doesn't adjust as the battery charges. So, I've come to the conclusion that perhaps the best way is to bring a battery charger, hook it to the generator, and charge the battery that way. Then I do worry about whether this OK for the trailer if I don't disconnect the battery. It would seem that the trailer should tolerate it OK as its own internal charger doesn't harm it.
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Old 02-07-2011, 12:03 PM   #33
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nope!
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Old 02-07-2011, 04:36 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acadianbob View Post
So, I've come to the conclusion that perhaps the best way is to bring a battery charger, hook it to the generator, and charge the battery that way. Then I do worry about whether this OK for the trailer if I don't disconnect the battery. It would seem that the trailer should tolerate it OK as its own internal charger doesn't harm it.
This is what I am doing now. It works much better but my small battery charger is only a 10 amp unit. I need the 40 amp one that was suggested in an earlier post. I am still looking and will order it when I get home.
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Old 02-07-2011, 06:15 PM   #35
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Yikes! That's one expensive charger!! I wonder how much amperage it draws? Couldn't find that information on their website. There are numerous similar chargers available. I believe that the "40 amp" on the charger link is for "starting" purposes only? Normally I think you would get a 20 amp charge? Also, aren't there "rules of thumb" about how fast you should charge a deep cycle battery based on its amp hrs? So, in our haste to recharge, might we be damaging our batteries?
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Old 02-07-2011, 07:16 PM   #36
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I have been looking for this charger. It appears to be only available on the internet. Neither Sears; K-Mart; Walmart; not Autozone seem to carry it.

I believe the 40 amp setting is for a non-routine charge stage that blasts the sulphates off the plates that build up after multiple charge/discharge cycles.

I just finished getting my two house batteries up to 98% capacity by running both my house power center and the 10 amp 3 stage battery charger at the same time. Once I shut off the 10 amp smart charger; the charge amps went from 3.6 tp 1.1 amps. The generator ran all day bringing it up from 76% to 98%. Peak charging rate at the beginning was 23 amps. It slowly dropped off to about 9.9 amps for most of the day.
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Old 02-07-2011, 07:36 PM   #37
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Most of the deep cycle battery advice sites that I could locate suggest that the maximum charge rate should be your amp hrs / 10. So, if you have a 100 amp hr battery, your maximum charge rate should be 10 amps. So, perhaps we need to be careful about trying to pump too much into a deep cycle battery too quickly . . . . Of course, it all depends on your situation and your setup. I also found sites that suggested 20 to 25% of your amp hrs. I guess this is less than a science.

http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CEYQ8wIwAg#
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Old 02-07-2011, 08:48 PM   #38
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There are many chargers out there which may be sufficient. The Black & Decker model is simply what I am using with good results. It does quite a bit. It can be set for Wet,Gel or AGM batteries. It checks for shorts, checks voltage, checks alternators (if used on vehicles), desulfates and has an engine start feature for when the battery is completely dead. It also has instructions for the amp rate in relation to battery size. It cautions the 40 amp charge is only for large batteries and banks of RV batteries. I forget the required AH rating for 40 amp recharging recommendation, but it is in the manual.

You must remember I have two Trojan SCS225s in parallel, so they have a 260 AH rating. They last quite awhile, but take quite a bit to recharge.

I have not had any problems charging them while they are use in the trailer.
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Old 02-08-2011, 05:53 PM   #39
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OK, here is another aspect of battery charging that confuses me. The 3-stage converters talk about bulk, absorption, float and indicate VOLTS. e.g. 14.4, 13.6, 13.1. But when you look at battery chargers, they talk about amps; e.g. 20, 10, etc. And the internal converter of my trailer says the charger is 55 amp. So, what is most important? Volts, Amps? Best answer probably says BOTH!! Can anyone shed some light on this?
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Old 02-08-2011, 06:24 PM   #40
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The way I was taught was to think of volts as "Pressure" and amps as "flow".

So, the way I understand it; the battery's actual existing charge (voltage pushing back) determines how much charge can be pushed into the battery. The higher the back pressure; the higher the charging pressure has to be to get "flow" into the battery.

So the lower the initial voltage of the battery, the more amps you can push in at a lower charging voltage. As the battery "fills up" the amps or flow into the battery drops off. Then the charger steps up the voltage to the next stage and the amps pick up again. When the battery is about 90% full, the charger has to go into a even higher pressure to push amps into the battery to finish it off. If the 14 volt setting is not available on your charger; it can take forever since the charging amps will continue to drop as the charge in the battery builds.

So, why not charge at 14 volts all the time? Well just imagine how many amps you can push into a low battery! That many amps will heat up the electrolyte so much that it can boil the water right out of it. It will also generate a huge amount of hydrogen and the caps may not be able to release it fast enough to avoid an explosive concentration under the vent caps. Any spark or static discharge could cause a battery explosion.

If there is an electrical engineer out there who can explain it better; please fire away. If I am totally off base please let me know where I am going wrong as I am always eager to learn more.
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