Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 07-16-2015, 01:49 PM   #11
Senior Member
 
Rvdixie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Zephyrhills, FL
Posts: 151
I used to be a pop up dealer many years ago and I can tell you that you have the power problem correct. It is basically an extension cord running across the ceiling and down the wall to the power supply. As to the hole in the roof I would be reluctant to tell you which way to go as it has been a long time since I've done it and I believe all manufacturer's use a different system of identifying the area. I would continue to be patient waiting on a response from Rockwood or perhaps call some other Rockwood dealers elsewhere in the country and talk to someone in service. Explain that you bought it used and you don't live anywhere near any dealers and perhaps you will hit the right guy on the right day. Good luck.
__________________

__________________
Richard & Rosalba Charron
Zephyrhills, FL
2015 Ford F150 Eco Boost
2016 Coachmen Chaparral Lite 29MKS
Rvdixie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2015, 03:39 PM   #12
Senior Member
 
Gregg Willow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Northern Minnesota
Posts: 254
I would use a stud finder (they are cheap) to find your supports if they exist and mark them out with painters tape. You should be 14" inside stud to inside stud both ways. Use your screw and look out 7", you should run into a stud. At least you will know what will need to be removed and go from there.
__________________

__________________
2016 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab XLT EcoBoost
2012 Salem Cruise Lite 221RBXL, Andersen No Sway WDH, (2) Honda EU2000i's
Gregg Willow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2015, 03:54 PM   #13
Senior Member
 
VinceU's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,502
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevespopup View Post
Hi everyone, new to the FR forums!

I have a 2006 Rockwood Freedom 2280 that is supposedly factory ready for ac.

I am 100% comfortable with doing up all the wiring for the unit but I am having trouble figuring out how and where to cut the hole for the ac unit.

I see the single screw on the inside of my ceiling just slightly above the dinette area but I don't have a template to know whether that screw location is the center of the hole or if it is an edge of the hole. I also don't know what to look for when I do cut the hole to confirm whether or not the roof is pre-braced to support an 80 lb a/c unit.

Also what tool should I use to ensure I get a clean perfect cut? I assume that I would cut from bottom up using a reciprocating saw with a fine multi blade that will cut metal + fiberglass.

Anyone here have a copy or link to the detailed installation instructions?

The a/c unit I want installed is a Dometic Brisk Air II. What is the general consensus on quality of unit? I know they're noisy but what a/c unit isn't?

Lastly, my friend has a 2008 Flagstaff 227 which also has the screw in the ceiling marked (presumably for a/c). Is the install procedure identical to my 2280?

Thanks for all the advice and tips.

Thanks,
I installed a Coleman a/c on a Coleman pop up awhile ago with the same questions as you. Turns out the roof was heavy plywood, foam and veneers both sides. I centered the cut on the roof and installed a sheet metal "frame" side to side behind the opening. I found no internal stiffening at the cut. Laid out on the roof and bored 1/2" holes on the corners, complete with a long jig blade. Hard to cut into a roof but it was worth it. I suspect the only framing in that roof was the perimeter, the balance was the heavy ply sandwich. I could easily walk on it (stowed).
__________________
VinceU is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2015, 04:01 PM   #14
Senior Member
 
Stormrider151's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: South East
Posts: 915
When I worked for a dealer as a service tech with installed AC units on coleman/fleetwoods. They had 4 plugs in the ceiling marking the four corners of the 14X14 for the AC. We would drill 4 holes at those plugs all the way through. Then lower the roof with the beds out until the roof rested on the beds. We then climbed up on the roof and cut the hole with a jig saw using the holes we drilled as a reference. That was Fleetwood and not your camper but I would think as far as cutting the hole it would be very similar. The stud finder as suggested above would probably work to help you find the bracing if you can't get anything from FR. Good luck.
__________________
Retired Fire Dept Battalion Chief
2016 Ever-Lite 232RBS
2012 F150 FX4 W/Max tow & Ecoboost

Getting old ain't for wimps!!!
Stormrider151 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2015, 10:55 AM   #15
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 19
installing ac on my rockwood pop up

well after much research and speaking to the helpful folks at Robertssales.com The owner Mark was very willing to assist in explaining to me the process of cutting the hole and how to do the install. In fact he sent me a very detailed e-mail outlined all that needed to be done.

The gist of it for the hose is this.

Remove the screw from the ceiling and use a 1/4" drill bit and drill through the ceiling and through the roof.

lower the roof and place some foam or pieces of wood on the roof to distribute your weight so you don't ruin the roof and using a recip or a jigsaw cut towards the front or towards the rear of the trailer. Go slow he says and when you hit the bracing you'll feel it b/c it's made of metal on the forward and rearward braces. Since you've cut a slit into the fiberglass roof you can shine a light inside and see where the other side braces are and carefully cut towards those.

He says it seems more daunting than it really is but he says once you can get a visual under the roof skin where you first punched the hole with the drill bit it is all very straightforward from there. As for the side power connnection just use a hole saw and core through the side where your power cord will plug into from the outside. Ideally do it along a window/canvas seam so that the cord isn't in your field of view.

In Canada it is MIND BLOWING what some RV dealers wanted to just cut the hole - $400! To do the entire install with electrical (which is super easy) they said to tack on another 6 hours for the job for a total of 10 hours or the equivalent of $1800 for labor only plus another $1200 for the a/c setup.

Given those prices I'd rather suck it up and spend an afternoon doing the work myself knowing that it was done right and with care.

I ended up getting a half decent deal on a Dometic Brisk Air II a/c unit. The pricing doesn't compare to what the US sells them for but I think it was reasonable considering our $$$ is so weak these days.

Thanks for all your guy's help.
__________________
stevespopup is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2015, 11:25 AM   #16
Left Coast
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: vancouver,washington
Posts: 15,649
Send a message via Yahoo to bob caldwell
Good post.
__________________
bob caldwell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2015, 11:42 AM   #17
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 19
so I have a few other questions since we're on the top of ac installs.

The a/c unit I purchase I believe weighs 80 lbs installed. Given the location of the unit is slightly forward of the trailer's single axle will that appreciably affect my tongue weight much? On my trailer I try to put what little I can into it either rear of or on directly by the rear trailer axle and try to avoid putting anything appreciably heavy towards the front of the axle dues to very restricted tongue load carrying capacity of my minivan. The folks at Rockwood measured the tongue weight as it left the factory at 255 lbs but I cannot remember if they included the weight of the battery or an empty propane tank. I suspect they did not therefore I must add an additional 90 lbs to that factory tongue weight which puts me in at 345 lbs which is basically maxed out.

Thoughts on this or more importantly how does FR measure their unloaded vehicle weight.
__________________
stevespopup is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2015, 04:44 PM   #18
Summer2Go
 
Summer2Go's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: NW New Jersey
Posts: 628
The price last year in NJ and Ohio to put air on a new popup, was $800- $1000. I was told that was because the units were pretty close to $800 w/o installation. I went with a hybrid in the end, the popups were getting so expensive I might as well spend a little more for an actual trailer. We always had a used popup, and we deserved something "new" this time.


Sent from my iPad using Forest River Forums
__________________
Summer2Go is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-25-2015, 01:57 AM   #19
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 19
installed pop up a/c today!

So I finally got around to purchasing a new Dometic Brisk Air II a/c unit and did the daunting task of cutting the hole into my perfect roof. The overall install went well except I think I may have messed up just a little on the cutting of the hole.
I got a bit too confident was when I was cutting along the metal support beams and was approaching the wood side cross members where I cut into them about 1/4-1/2" deep. To make matter worse I cut not 1 gash but 2 of them about the same depth into the same side cross member.

I obviously didn't cut through it b/c I stopped when I sawdust coming out from my blade but I'm wondering are the side wood pieces also for structural support and by cutting two cuts (close to each other - about 3/4" apart from each other) into the wood side beam I fear that I may have now compromised the integrity of the roof. Does the hole have to be precisely cut such that the wood is never cut into?

I'm pretty sure I won't leak water b/c of the same gash in the fibreglass roof as the gasket on the a/c unit is huge and very wide but I thought that I would chime in to ask what others thought about the cross beam's overall integrity.

Hoping I didn't really screw up my frame for the a/c hole.

Thanks,
__________________
stevespopup is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-25-2015, 07:33 AM   #20
Senior Member
 
Stormrider151's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: South East
Posts: 915
That's kind of hard to say with out knowing the dimensions of the roof members. But if you stopped the cut as soon as you saw roof fibers I'm guessing you may not have cut as deep as you think you did. It's just a guess but I'm thinking your probably ok. Especially if you used a metal cutting blade on your saw. It's a little daunting cutting a hole in a new roof the first time. When I was prepping new trailers that took some getting used too.
__________________

__________________
Retired Fire Dept Battalion Chief
2016 Ever-Lite 232RBS
2012 F150 FX4 W/Max tow & Ecoboost

Getting old ain't for wimps!!!
Stormrider151 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
280, rockwood

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




ForestRiverForums.com is not in any way associated with Forest River, Inc. or its associated RV manufacturing divisions.


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:06 PM.