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Old 04-02-2012, 01:47 PM   #11
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Location: Langley, BC
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Originally Posted by freedom 750 View Post
Hi in Langley, BC. We live in Cloverdale, BC.
I don't have a solution but I was wondering if the awning was installed at the factory or if it was a later option. Our door opens all the way to the right against the TT side and it has a latch to hold it open. If the wind caught it, it would hit the latch first.
One suggestion would be to buy one of those trunk latch hydraulic lifters. They have several sizes of them at Princess Auto in Langley. That would let it open to only a set opening.
freedom 750: Howdy over in Cloverdale! Our Vet is there on #10. Our awning was installed at the factory. Like a lot of things on our trailer, our awning doesn't seem to be well thought out. When the awning is out, you can't open the door much more than 90 degrees and when it's raining, the awning doesn't cover the door if held open. It would have been a lot better if the awning had been about 1 1/2 feet longer and then the door wouldn't get rained on and the door wouldn't hit the awning support. This would have cost more $$ at the factory though. Or, they could have mounted the entire awning forward about 1 1/2 feet, but unfortunately, the support would block the window at the rear which is an escape window. But, they could have initially installed the window differently.

I dream a lot now about becoming a factory RV designer and fixing these sorts of faux pas.

Our door has an "L" shaped holder to fix the door in the open position. If it's really windy out, the door really flaps back and forth wildly because the "L" flexes a lot. I worry about the thing popping out or breaking. If we use this door holder, the door doesn't quite open wide enough. I'm guessing the factory did this so it won't bang into the awning support. But WE bang into the side of the door instead......

The problem we find is when entering the trailer you have to do a sort of twist and turn while climbing the steps to maintain a grip on the door handle. One quick gust of wind and it can snap out of your hand if you aren't paying attention. We've now learned to hang on tightly if it's windy.

I had thought about a strut as an option but now hearing about a twisted door makes me think otherwise. I wonder if they make a shock absorber similar in size to the gass-filled struts used in RVs? Nice idea, but I can't see a screen door chain/spring working? I have to be careful of anything near the top of the door as well because it could hit the awning material and damage it when the door swings out. Can't even reverse the door swing (as if I would, haha) because the furnace vents and range hood fan exhaust would be in the way.

I'm surprised one of the aftermarket RV parts manufacturers doesn't have an item on the shelf for this. About the only 1/2 decent workable thing I can think of so far is to wrap the awning support with a small piece of closed cell foam and securing it with tie-wraps. This would have to be done in two spots, one for awning up and one for awning down. Not terribly elegant though.

We love our new TT to death but this door thing is the pretty much the one and only thing that drives us crazy.

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Old 05-27-2012, 07:05 AM   #12
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Kansas
Posts: 53
Been battling this issue the last two days. I have a Wildwood 26TBSS and the latch that can hold the door open, also has a "bumper". This is just a piece of plastic or rigid rubber that bangs into the door. I know in time it will fail and punch through either the wall or the door.

My first thought was to put a chunk of foam noodle on the bumper. My next idea is this, hang some sort of foam or rubber ball on the camper side where the door opens to. So even if the door swings wildly, the foam ball will cushion it. I'm thinking a Nerf soccer ball in a mesh ball bag, hanging from a 3M command strip hook...

Ottawa, KS
2013 Forest River Wildwood 26TBSS
2010 Nissan Armada SE 4x4
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Old 05-27-2012, 08:32 AM   #13
Join Date: Jan 2012
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That's just crazy! Why would they do something like that? I have a Crusader 260 RLD and the awning goes past the door.
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Old 05-27-2012, 09:02 AM   #14
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Smile It works

Lowes makes a foam weather stirp that can be mounted on either door or the awning support. This should take up most of the shock. Put only small amounts only enough as needed. I beleave it come in black and white.
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Old 05-27-2012, 11:26 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by dunnnc View Post
Can't remove the arms on a power awning.

Could be wrong..... but it looks like a manual awning to me, in the OP's original post.

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Old 05-27-2012, 11:35 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by VTX Al View Post
Could be wrong..... but it looks like a manual awning to me, in the OP's original post.

You are correct, the OP does have a manual awning.
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Old 05-27-2012, 11:41 AM   #17
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would something like this work? they sell them at camping world
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Old 05-27-2012, 12:01 PM   #18
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Here's a REDNECK solution. Cut a piece of pipe insulation to fit around the awning rod and then tape it with duct tape. Duct tape comes in all colors, even white.

Or stick one of those stick-on-wall door stops to the door; the kind that protects the wall from the door knob. Use the kind that is indented not the rounded kind. Don't know if the adhesive would hold up in outside conditions but you can find an adhesive for outside use that would work. If you had to, put a screw through the middle into the door. Put some silicon around it to keep out the weather.

Those gas struts are a PITA. One of the reasons we didn't buy a particular trailer when we were looking!
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Old 05-30-2012, 09:14 AM   #19
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Location: Brookfield, WI
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My 23SS has exactly the same problem. The door open to the right, again the awning post. The trailer came with a plastic "L" type hold open, which we pulled out a half a dozen times before we gave up.

Year later I saw the gas strut on a newer model. Ask the dealer to install one on my trailer and was advised not to as the door and door frame are not strong enough to handle the stresses. Did not go ahead with the installation.

Our final solution is to use a short bungee cord between the door latch and hole in the awning post anchor. Place a small towel between the door and awing post to prevent abrasion.
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Old 05-30-2012, 11:41 AM   #20
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Still haven't come up with an elegant solution for this. May just end up taking the REDNECK approach and wrapping the support tube with foam. Oh well...

When the awning supports are out and in the vertical position, with the door full open (in 180 degree position), I now see that it is free to whack against the trailer siding. My answer to this is I am going to install another T-handle support near the outer side of the door. I know it will look a bit odd tho.

Gil & Deb & Dougal the Springer Spaniel
Langley, BC
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