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Old 09-09-2015, 08:26 PM   #21
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Ok. I am working on the 50 amp hw unit. I understand the jumper on L1 to L3...on the T sides of the contactor there are village sensors. T1 and T3 green stripe and not. What do I do with the non green stripe sensor since there is no T3 or red out?


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Old 09-09-2015, 08:34 PM   #22
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Sorry. Voltage sensors


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Old 09-09-2015, 11:23 PM   #23
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No ideas?

Posting to keep fresh


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Old 09-10-2015, 11:31 AM   #24
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Don't worry about the current sensor for T3. A wire doesn't need to go through it. It won't have any current running through it, just like most 50Amp units when they aren't running the second A/C.
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Old 09-10-2015, 08:16 PM   #25
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Thank you. I will admit something. I was scared when I got to the installation and saw the two sensors. These are actually amperage sensors.
I wasn't sure what to do and thought I might have to exchange for a 30 amp even though I have read many times about installing on a 30 amp system.

Here is the official answer from Donald at PI.
1. Best option: put both sensors on t1 line in the correct direction spaced as far apart as you can. He said use wire ties(aka chicken tongues) to separate. This will read amperage...the same, but no error code or dead line.
2. Do not use black/non green tape sensor, but insulate with something so it doesn't bounce around in the box. There will be no amps..so a false code or something.

No.1 is best choice he advised.

Customer service was excellent as noted here.

I told him they should be making donations to the forum because we/yall prolly sell a great part of what they sell...well some percentage anyway.

Thanks for all the help.


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Old 09-11-2015, 05:23 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iwannacamp View Post
Thank you. I will admit something. I was scared when I got to the installation and saw the two sensors. These are actually amperage sensors.
I wasn't sure what to do and thought I might have to exchange for a 30 amp even though I have read many times about installing on a 30 amp system.

Here is the official answer from Donald at PI.
1. Best option: put both sensors on t1 line in the correct direction spaced as far apart as you can. He said use wire ties(aka chicken tongues) to separate. This will read amperage...the same, but no error code or dead line.
2. Do not use black/non green tape sensor, but insulate with something so it doesn't bounce around in the box. There will be no amps..so a false code or something.

No.1 is best choice he advised.

Customer service was excellent as noted here.

I told him they should be making donations to the forum because we/yall prolly sell a great part of what they sell...well some percentage anyway.

Thanks for all the help.


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I think that putting them both on the same line will give you a doubled current readout, since it will think that the same current is being consumed by both output lines.
(I'm fairly convinced of this, remembering back to electronics degree stuff)
These inductive sensors are not exactly very accurate anyway, but if you're interested in the readout then I'd leave one hanging
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Old 09-11-2015, 06:47 PM   #27
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I think that putting them both on the same line will give you a doubled current readout, since it will think that the same current is being consumed by both output lines.

(I'm fairly convinced of this, remembering back to electronics degree stuff)

These inductive sensors are not exactly very accurate anyway, but if you're interested in the readout then I'd leave one hanging

According to the expert it will work correctly and give same display. I will know tonight... I will post when I finish.


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Old 09-11-2015, 08:34 PM   #28
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According to the expert it will work correctly and give same display. I will know tonight... I will post when I finish.
Would be interested to know if you do get the same result using one or both of the current sensors, since it would give a hint as to how they're wired.
I'd have suspected that they use inductive current sensors wired in parallel to get the combined current draw from both lines, but perhaps they measure individually and only show one at a time on the 50A unit, or some other setup
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Old 09-12-2015, 12:18 AM   #29
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Would be interested to know if you do get the same result using one or both of the current sensors, since it would give a hint as to how they're wired.

I'd have suspected that they use inductive current sensors wired in parallel to get the combined current draw from both lines, but perhaps they measure individually and only show one at a time on the 50A unit, or some other setup

Using both on a 30amp 3wire system gets the same reading assuming you add the L3 to L1 jumper. That provides false voltage to the voltage sensor. The "amp sensor" is simply a amp probe type reading so it is the same also.

Funny thing. The man from PI suggested I always use the 50amp connection if available with an adapter because it provides more available wattage... My understanding was the available wattage vs used(30 in my case) maybe was cleaner/more efficient in certain times when loads vary. He also said to check both for the best voltage supply. In peak demand times the 50 could be better or 30 depending on who is using what. It was interesting. I will get a good adapter to check it.

After installing mine I got 117 on each leg and 9 amps(converter) and 17 amps a/c and converter.

I also got code E10 which is surge failure. It was after 10 so I quit for the night. As Google noted I would need a new board. Wondie. I will call them next week and see. I need to turn the breaker off and recheck. I was sweaty and tired so I gave in after I cleaned for a bit. Funny I got no sparks or anything when I plugged up. Makes me wonder if I messed something up.


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Old 09-12-2015, 07:50 AM   #30
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Hope you get it sorted out.
To be honest I wish I'd bought the 50A unit to future proof myself, but I have the 30A one with the remote display
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