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Old 06-04-2015, 02:46 PM   #31
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The one on the sides. The top is so you can manually raise and lower the jack if the power fails.
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Old 06-04-2015, 04:58 PM   #32
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Glad you guys are able to get away with just rotating the head of the power jack, I was not as lucky, the tailgate would hit the power head and even when removed it cover about 1/2" of the hole.
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Old 06-04-2015, 06:00 PM   #33
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Lil2low - have you ever had a flat on your expedition while towing your tt? I have and that's part of my reason for wanting a hatch that will fully open without unhooking.

Good point!
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Old 06-05-2015, 07:22 AM   #34
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You can get a longer shank and keep the same weight rating. This would be a better route than using an extension and cost about the same as rewelding, but if you need more than a few inches rewelding or turning the head may be the only option. I have a 16" shank with a 1,200/12,000 lb rating, this lets me drop my tailgate (truck) with room to spare.
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Old 06-05-2015, 09:19 AM   #35
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I looked at turning the head on mine last night and I have the holes but I need to buy a tap. Yes a longer shank for my equalizer hitch would probably work but they are expensive. it would have been nice if the place I bought my camper and hitch from saw this problem and sold me the longer shank in the beginning.
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Old 06-11-2015, 07:30 PM   #36
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How about the pro pride or Hensley? They are super expensive but the put the trailer like 12" back from the TV.. Just an expensive option I guess..
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Old 06-11-2015, 07:42 PM   #37
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Before I would consider buying any thing hitch wise, I would investigate moving things on the A frame. If the battery box could be moved forward, the propane tanks moved back and if nothing else, buy a pc of C channel and move the jack back behind the batteries after they have been moved forward. The jack will work fine moved back about 18" or more on a new channel.
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Old 06-11-2015, 09:14 PM   #38
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Here is a pic of mine moved back 5", sure is nice being able to open the tailgate without it hitting. 1/4"x5" C channel, also the guide plate on the bottom. Moved the tanks and rack back a couple inches.
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Old 06-11-2015, 09:22 PM   #39
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Take the electric one off and put on a manual
Crank one !
I think this is what I would do also. It is pretty easy and is cheap. You can sell your power jack to pay for the manual and pocket a little also. Win - win.

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Old 06-11-2015, 09:29 PM   #40
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Put the spare in the trailer.
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