Install a new max air

[jerrygallion]

I just bought a 2017 Rockwood windjammer 3029. In the rear living room we have a air vent and would love to put in a remote max air in. Does anyone know it there is a power source to tie into? I did look to see if it was wired for one and didn't see anything. There are some wires in the area but don't know where they go. I attached a photo of it. Any help will be appreciated. I'm out camping so at the moment I have no tools to test the wires.

[youroo]

Originally Posted by jerrygallion

I just bought a 2017 Rockwood windjammer 3029. In the rear living room we have a air vent and would love to put in a remote max air in. Does anyone know it there is a power source to tie into? I did look to see if it was wired for one and didn't see anything. There are some wires in the area but don't know where they go. I attached a photo of it. Any help will be appreciated. I'm out camping so at the moment I have no tools to test the wires.

Is your unit a 50 AMP,that was prewired for 2nd A/C? Even so like you know test the wires and hook up your fan,everything is there! Youroo!!

[jerrygallion]

Yes it's 50 amp and I had the 2nd ac installed

[kenandterry]

Great photo. That helps immensely.

I’m going to go out on a limb here and say I’d guess that the two wires(white and red) are some 12V and ground to something else....lights, fan etc. There’s no guarantee of color code, but when I did the same addition to our rig, the white is ground (negative) and the red is 12V (positive). The red could be “live” all the time or is controlled by some other switch for something nearby....a light perhaps. Either way....an essential tool on an RV is a digital meter to know what the wires do provide, and knowing how to use one.

It’s possible the other 4 wires are 110V to an air conditioner or such. Again no guarantee.

[jerrygallion]

I figured when I get home I will test them wires and see if they have a constant 12 volt to them. And not on a switch if so I'll splice into them. Just wondering if anyone one else has done this?

[A32Deuce]

Originally Posted by jerrygallion

I figured when I get home I will test them wires and see if they have a constant 12 volt to them. And not on a switch if so I'll splice into them. Just wondering if anyone one else has done this?

All my roof openings now have vent fans and my wires were white ground and red positive if that helps.

[jerrygallion]

Awesome thanks. That helps alot

[BikerMikeyB]

I just did this on my Nitro XLR 23kw. I used a meter to find a hot 12 v line running close. Yes, unfortunately it’s trial and error. Use a 12volt meter or find a local electrician. My neighbor helped me.

But wow, makes a huge difference. You’re going to love it.

The pain is striping all the old sealant off.

[jerrygallion]

Originally Posted by BikerMikeyB

I just did this on my Nitro XLR 23kw. I used a meter to find a hot 12 v line running close. Yes, unfortunately it’s trial and error. Use a 12volt meter or find a local electrician. My neighbor helped me.

But wow, makes a huge difference. You’re going to love it.

The pain is striping all the old sealant off.

I did it on my old camper but it had 12 volt to it already. Yes the sealant stinks. That takes more time than installing it

[Denny B]

I did, exactly, this mod to our 2016 2304KS Mini Lite.
In our case, the red and white wires fed a light just behind the vent, toward the front of the trailer. I used that power source for the MaxAir. I t works fine.
Good luck and happy camping

Denny B

[dsjohns71]

I did this mod to my bathroom in my Heritage Glenn. There are 2 lights that are controlled by a wall switch as well as the old fart fan. I would like a constant hot so when I turn the switch on the wall OFF only the lights turn off not the max air vent so I can keep it on auto most of the time. Anyone else run into this issue?

[andymil]

I just installed one in the living room of our SOB. I found no wires near the vent opening that were always hot. I got lucky and found wires running front to back after pulling a nearby light fixture down. When I pulled on the wires in the ceiling, I got movement on some wires behind the control panel. I was able to use a wire running from the control panel to pull two new wires for the vent fan. It was very tight, hard to pull. I soldered the new wires to the old one so they wouldn’t pull apart. This way I got the 12 volt (red) and ground (white) from behind the control panel. I got the manual Maxair and the Fanmate cover.

Quote: “Anyone else run into this issue?”

Yes. I would like to install one in the bathroom but I have the same issue as dsjohns71. The OEM vent fan (pos) is controlled with the lights by the switch in the bathroom. So far, I haven’t been able to get another wire across the ceiling and down the wall to the switch. It’s only a couple of feet from one of the ceiling lights. I pulled the light fixture down and the switch out, but can’t get any movement when pulling on the wires. I put it on the back burner for now. When I get caught up with some other projects, I’ll try again. Worst case will be the fan is off when the lights are out. If I put one in there, I’ll get the remote controlled fan, otherwise I’ll have to stand on the toilet to operate it.

I haven’t tried to get power to the bedroom vent yet. It’s got 120 in an outlet box for a second A/C but no 12 volt feed. I did put a cover on the bedroom vent so we can leave it open.

I used a heat gun to soften the Dicor when removing the LR vent. After carefully scraping as much as I could without stretching or cutting the rubber roof (or whatever it is) I used LPS1 to remove the remaining Dicor.

FWIW, from what I’ve seen, 120 volt wires are Romex cable.