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Old 01-03-2017, 03:52 PM   #41
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My Girard gen 3 failed this past week during a campout in 35 degree weather and nothing in the manual or in the online section of their website addresses the problem. I've called them twice and sent an email. We'll see what happens next.
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Old 01-03-2017, 04:14 PM   #42
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My Girard gen 3 failed this past week during a campout in 35 degree weather and nothing in the manual or in the online section of their website addresses the problem. I've called them twice and sent an email. We'll see what happens next.
Keep us posted so we all know what to look for.
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Old 01-03-2017, 04:17 PM   #43
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After working on about 50 tankless heaters over the past 12 years for my part time job, I can't understand why anyone would want one. First is the minimum flow requirement, second is the water used before the heat exchanger gets to full temp. Third, they modulate horribly. They like full flow or no flow. Fourth, they have a limited heat input (this is why your water gets hotter with less flow), therefore, they are rated for a specific temperature rise, not necessarily output temp. If you camp in the fall and your water is 50 degrees, you get colder water than if you camp in the summer with 70 degree water. Then there's the issue with finicky circuit boards.

It's great that some people like them, but if I want a long shower, I'll use the shower facilities, otherwise, a short shower will suffice with the 6 gallon.
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Old 01-03-2017, 06:13 PM   #44
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Rat4spd,

Just so you know...A couple of manufactures have fixed this temperature modulation issue. Both the Truma and Suburban tankless now modulate the burner to keep a constant output water temperature. I did not buy one of the other brands just for this modulation difference. My Suburban IW60 keeps a constant outlet temperature. I have also found it stays on even with just the shower flowing with campgrounds that have very low water pressure...Which of course causes lower flow rates.

Your other point is still true...it does still take a few seconds for it to kick on so you wait just a little longer for hot water. I will tell you though for us it's no big deal. My family loves this heater.
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Old 01-03-2017, 09:01 PM   #45
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What's the output temperature of a tankless water heater?
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Old 01-03-2017, 09:05 PM   #46
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The IW60 can be set to temps from 120 to I think 140. I would need to get the manual out. I did not buy the digital controller so I have to change the dip switches on the heater main board if I want to change the temp. I have it set at 120. If you buy the digital controller then you can adjust it in I believe 1 degree increments.
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Old 01-03-2017, 09:10 PM   #47
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I couldn't stand mine. I replaced it with 12 gallon conventional.

We take 2 showers back to back. She takes a LOBSTER shower. We both take a long time. We don't run out of hot water. I like the conventional one.

The tankless is sort of like a 16 year old female. You never know what you're going to get. The conventional is like a 80 year old male. In a rut, same thing every time.
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Old 01-03-2017, 09:18 PM   #48
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I will tell you though for us it's no big deal. My family loves this heater.
That's the only opinion that matters.
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Old 01-06-2017, 02:24 PM   #49
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Hoping someone can help me with a Suburban IW60 issue. last trip and now current trip when I pressurise the water system on the trailer (city or by pump) the hot water tank flows water from its system drain line. Last trip it corrected itself in about 2 minutes. I was hooked to city water then. Getting ready for current trip where I have to use tank water (no city water) and it is having this issue again and not stopping this time.

How does the system drain itself. Is there a value that might need adjusting? I know there is a front protection that runs it every so often when its below freezing. It has been and I have furnace running and a heater in the basement so it should not be frozzen.

I do get hot ware from it but it still is losing water from drain hose at the same time I am getting hot water from it inside.

Stumped
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Old 01-06-2017, 03:05 PM   #50
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Hoping someone can help me with a Suburban IW60 issue. last trip and now current trip when I pressurise the water system on the trailer (city or by pump) the hot water tank flows water from its system drain line. Last trip it corrected itself in about 2 minutes. I was hooked to city water then. Getting ready for current trip where I have to use tank water (no city water) and it is having this issue again and not stopping this time.

How does the system drain itself. Is there a value that might need adjusting? I know there is a front protection that runs it every so often when its below freezing. It has been and I have furnace running and a heater in the basement so it should not be frozzen.

I do get hot ware from it but it still is losing water from drain hose at the same time I am getting hot water from it inside.

Stumped


I have not had this issue with mine; however, my understanding is the system normally stays full of water unless you drain it via the drain valve. This drain tub and valve I assume are where you see water coming from. If you remove the access cover above where the drain tube comes out of the heater you should be able to open and then close the valve. This may stop the issue. Maybe the valve is not tightly closed.
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Old 01-06-2017, 03:38 PM   #51
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Problem resolved after calling Suburban tech support. Great service person. Connected internal to the unit connected to the drain line is a temperature sensitive valve that opens when the valve hits 39 degrees so that it will drain the water and not let it freeze. I have a basement heater but not keeping it up to that 39/40 degree mark internal to the hot water tank. Things have warmed up today and valve is now shut and things are good.

There is a screw you can use to close that valve if you get stuck out somewhere and you need to use the system when that valve is open due to the cold. Lower right back corner next to the grounding green screw. Turn clockwise all the way to shut that valve off manually, open back up counterclockwise to let the valve work as designed.

Good info to store away.
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Old 01-06-2017, 03:50 PM   #52
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Problem resolved after calling Suburban tech support. Great service person. Connected internal to the unit connected to the drain line is a temperature sensitive valve that opens when the valve hits 39 degrees so that it will drain the water and not let it freeze. I have a basement heater but not keeping it up to that 39/40 degree mark internal to the hot water tank. Things have warmed up today and valve is now shut and things are good.

There is a screw you can use to close that valve if you get stuck out somewhere and you need to use the system when that valve is open due to the cold. Lower right back corner next to the grounding green screw. Turn clockwise all the way to shut that valve off manually, open back up counterclockwise to let the valve work as designed.

Good info to store away.

Very good to know! Thank you! I will have to check mine since I do use it during cold weather.
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Old 01-07-2017, 07:27 AM   #53
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"Because as soon as the water flow rate decreases, like when you slide off the water flow at the head, the water heater shuts down.

When you slide the water on, the water heater takes 6-9 seconds to start back up again. During that time you get cold or non-heated water.

That's the definition of the 1st quart problem. EVERY time you cut the flow through the on-demand water heater, it stops heating."

On our bus camper we solved this temp change hassle by installing a tube high on the shower wall that lead back to the FW tank.

The hand shower was simply placed there to maintain water flow.

Sure it used propane but the water temperature remained even.
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Old 01-07-2017, 02:08 PM   #54
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Fred,

That is a creative solution to the issue! It may seem silly, but that is more plumbing than I want to do.

There is a company in Irvine, CA that markets a valve and liquid crystal thermometer assembly that does a similar thing. When the readout turns red, it means the water is hot and you set the valve to flow water out of the showerhead. When it's cold, the water flows back to the tank. Still more plumbing for me.

My in-line small electric water heater after the on-demand heater will solve the problem (I think), I just have to finish the install!
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Old 01-07-2017, 02:18 PM   #55
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Cool

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Originally Posted by 5picker View Post
Keep us posted so we all know what to look for.
A nice fellow from Girard called me back on Tuesday and we discussed the problem. He said he needed to talk with a more technical member of the staff and promised to call back in an hour or so....and he did!

He asked if I could make a voltage measurement at the remote panel connection on main board for the WH and I said I could. I went to the trailer in storage Thursday and took the measurement.

Since the remote panel in the trailer is powered and communicated with over an interface bus (it's a 2 wire system), Girard thinks the status of the voltage on the bus is indicative of where the problem is. The Girard associate believed that my readings meant that the remote panel is faulty, so they are shipping out a new one. Once I get the new panel, I can quickly check if that is the problem or not. Stay tuned
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Old 05-27-2017, 11:12 AM   #56
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So... here are the models I have looked at;

Atwood # 90205 50,000 BTU $ 899.00

Suburban # IW60 60,000 BTU $ 850.

Girard # GSWH-2 42,000 BTU $ 699.00

Truma AquaGo - 60,000 BTU $ 1200 approx.
Why not the Eccotemp L10? It's $150, and as far as I can tell, has similar BTU, gpm, and temperature rise to those above... plus a lot more customers and reviews. Is it just because the Eccotemp isn't specifically RV (perhaps vibration-proof) designed? I've found bad reviews for all of the above except the Truma, and heck if it's gonna break I'd rather replace a $150 unit than $900! What am I missing?
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Old 08-19-2017, 02:04 PM   #57
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IW 60 Installation

I recently installed the Suburban IW60 tankless water heater. While Suburban's office is in Tennessee the heater is definitely made in China.
I had a difficult time procuring it, but an email to Airexcel sped up the process.
I have a Forest River Surveyor travel trailer that had the Suburban 6 gallon tank installed. The IW60 fits into the space but it is a snug fit. The use of two 2x4's supported the heater at the perfect height.
I used the existing Suburban water heater switch and light assembly and it works perfectly.
The instruction manual is a bit lacking and could have been more descriptive. There are two drains on the unit, and only one is identified in the manual. I phoned Suburban's customer service and they initially did not want to talk to me as I was installing the unit myself. Finally, after some persuasion, I was able to speak with a Technical Rep who was very helpful and identified the case drain.
I would estimate that the total installation time was about 6 hours over several days, mostly because I wanted to take my time and get it right, and as stated earlier trying to decipher the manual.
I found that the major issue I had was finding a water fitting that would not leak at the brass 1/2" NPT fittings on the case. I suspect that the fittings are not as well made as a US one, and I kept having weeping issues. Finally, after switching over to a 1/2" PEX brass fitting and expensive pipe dope the weeping stopped.
The heater itself performs well, as per spec, but as others have noted it takes about 10 seconds for the hot water to reach the shower. The heater uses more water and more propane since we now enjoy a longer shower. But, that is worth it!!
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Old 11-07-2017, 03:15 PM   #58
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I have a similar question. Can someone be able to answer my question or give me good advice. I never thought of putting more than one water heater in my house. I want to get a electric water heater, but I wasn't sure if it would work for our house. I want to select a water heater from this list https://www.newtanklesswaterheaters.com/ . But I'm cautious because they run on electricity, would that be practical than the gas types?
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