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Old 12-28-2015, 01:28 PM   #11
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removing underbelly cover

Have been wanting to check an underbelly area but was not sure about cutting it. Thanks to replies I don't see that its much of a problem now. Thanks
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Old 12-28-2015, 01:28 PM   #12
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When I had to reattach the underbelly on my 2015 Windjammer I was absolutely disgusted with the quality of work that Forest River does. Are the other oem's the same? Probably.
A monkey could have done as good or better job. If you can you would be advised to drop the underbelly, fix the disgusting mess that you will find with the wiring, plumbing pipes and heating ducts then add crossmembers to attach the coroplast to and seal around the edges.
If you can't do this then do like others have suggested and cut a 3 sided trapdoor where you think you have to. Repair what you need and seal backup.
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Old 12-28-2015, 01:40 PM   #13
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removing underbelly

Not really ,its all closed up at this time. What I did was remove the complete coroplast cover from bottom of the trailer. I took some 2x4s and ripped them lengthwise. I guess that makes them 2x2s not 1x2s as previously stated. then I placed them over the original firing strips that were nailed, Yes I said nailed to the frame, and predrilled 1/8" holes in the wood into the frame. I then used two and a half inch deck screws to fasten the strips to the frame. I also added cross braces made of 2x2s approx every 4 ft. so the coroplast dosen't sag like it did from the factory. By doing this mod I was able to hang the heating ducts with strapping material from the floor bottom so they weren't being crushed, It also allowed me to cover the gas line so it wasn't exposed under the trailer. While I had the bottom off I was able reroute hoses that had excessive bends in them and patch the heating duct to the bedroom which was the reason I pulled the bottom in the first place. If you do this you will find several things that can be fixed before they become a problem, or at least I did. Good Luck.
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Old 12-28-2015, 03:30 PM   #14
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I have also had two sections down. For plumbing and valve work. I had to carefully bow them in and out. I also added a 1X2 cross piece and used more screws. Also added insulation in a few spots. Good to have a look. On a difficulty index1-10 it was about a 4
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Old 12-28-2015, 05:02 PM   #15
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Been in ours several times and definitely hinge to the front and use underbelly tape. You will be glad you did.

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Old 12-28-2015, 08:08 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Happy Camper 2715 View Post
Not really ,its all closed up at this time. What I did was remove the complete coroplast cover from bottom of the trailer. I took some 2x4s and ripped them lengthwise. I guess that makes them 2x2s not 1x2s as previously stated. then I placed them over the original firing strips that were nailed, Yes I said nailed to the frame, and predrilled 1/8" holes in the wood into the frame. I then used two and a half inch deck screws to fasten the strips to the frame. I also added cross braces made of 2x2s approx every 4 ft. so the coroplast dosen't sag like it did from the factory. By doing this mod I was able to hang the heating ducts with strapping material from the floor bottom so they weren't being crushed, It also allowed me to cover the gas line so it wasn't exposed under the trailer. While I had the bottom off I was able reroute hoses that had excessive bends in them and patch the heating duct to the bedroom which was the reason I pulled the bottom in the first place. If you do this you will find several things that can be fixed before they become a problem, or at least I did. Good Luck.
Sonds like the way to go. Do-you have any pictures.
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Old 12-28-2015, 08:25 PM   #17
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I have had mine off each year for the past 4 for repairs to a stubborn crack in the black tank and replaced one flush valve. No problems and if you have to replace a screw, just use self tapping screws anywhere along the edges. Also replaced the insulation with dense Styrofoam and replaced 2 of the 2 X 2's with no problems.
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Old 12-29-2015, 09:21 AM   #18
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FYI - Home Depot carries the Coroplast 4'x8' sheets $15 per sheet just in case you need some extra or to replace any damaged sheets.
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Old 12-29-2015, 11:36 AM   #19
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Just curious here, but many makers claim that their underbelly is insulated and able to withstand cold temps. They also say that excess heat is ducted down there to keep pipes from freezing.
So, how is the heat distributed? Do they just cut a hole in a random duct? I also want to know how the heat is retained? If it is just heat being put into a large void, then won't it escape as fast as you put it in?
Those of you who have looked, do you see evidence of insulation? If so, what type? Spray foam or fiberglass batts?
Would it be good, if you drop the belly, to add your own insulation?
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Old 12-29-2015, 12:08 PM   #20
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Our last unit had enclosed underbelly and it was closed all the way with Coroplast and had thin 1/2" sheets of Styrofoam laid on top of the Coroplast as insulation. There were a couple of 2" ducts ran off the furnace into the space. While I wouldn't call it optimum, we stayed in 8F cold and didn't have any problems.

I think the so called 'Arctic' packages have a little better insulation. I also think adding some thicker Styrofoam sheets and some expanding foam would help a lot.
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