Is it a nightmare to get into the underbelly

episodic · 12-27-2015, 04:44 PM

I'd like to check out some waterline connectors under the sink toilet area. I see the underside is screwed to the sides. Is it under a lot of pressure? Just wondering if I take it down, do I have a chance of getting it back up? Looks like the factory even had a hard time as the final section is not mated perfectly, and was finished with gorilla tape.

Want to replace some pex connectors with brass and check it out for leaks as a few inside have dripped.

It is a Rockwood 2175vs.

KenHwy61 · 12-27-2015, 04:56 PM

If you have a corrugated black plastic underbelly cover the easiest thing to do is use a razor knife to cut open a small section for inspection/repair. Cut the opening on 3 sides and open it like a trap door. To reseal either use duct tape or for better long term sealing, buy a small sheet of coroplast and make a patch using silicon and screws to attach.

episodic · 12-27-2015, 05:00 PM

This is going to sound silly, but how does one know where to cut? Are there some diagrams of the locations of things? Also, I thought about this would electric or plumbing be resting on it and get cut accidentally?

KenHwy61 · 12-27-2015, 05:10 PM

No diagrams so you have to measure and just figure out where to cut. There may be wires and plumbing laying on top but just use a short blade. I wouldn't worry about that. Cutting through either one would take a lot more effort than the thin plastic cover. I would just make your best guess where you need to cut and go for it!

MillerTime · 12-27-2015, 05:37 PM

I've dropped parts of my underbelly lots of times. It usually takes a 5/16" nut driver. I use one in a drill or impact driver, makes it easy.
I've also cut a flap in the cloraplast in an area i kept having a leak. Just remember to have the hinge side towards the front, that way if the tape fails while your driving it wont rip a hole in the cloraplast!
Good luck

**Mr. Dan** · 12-27-2015, 05:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MillerTime

I've dropped parts of my underbelly lots of times. It usually takes a 5/16" nut driver. I use one in a drill or impact driver, makes it easy.
I've also cut a flap in the cloraplast in an area i kept having a leak. Just remember to have the hinge side towards the front, that way if the tape fails while your driving it wont rip a hole in the cloraplast!
Good luck

I've dropped mine several times: 3-4 times to check/adjust/fix dump valves, once to shore up my sagging fresh water tank. Don't lose your screws in the gravel!
I've never cut a new hole in the undercover but I did make an existing trap door larger to get to a valve.

onetonford · 12-27-2015, 05:56 PM

Also use the right tape not duct tape as it will not hold buy the scrim tape I think is what they call it it is very expensive but it works clean the area with alcohol then put tape make sure to get it straight because once it sticks it is stuck.

Happy Camper 2715 · 12-28-2015, 10:22 AM

I've removed mine because of no heat to the bedroom in my rockwood 2715 vs. I would not recommend cutting blindly into the coroplast because the heat ducting is laying on top of it,also wiring harness is laying there also.Once you see how poorly it is installed you my want to redo it entirely. I took mine down completely and added a 1x2 to the entire perimeter of the trailer to drop it down to keep from crushing the heating ducts & pinching wires between cover and frame. This also allowed me to make it varmint proof,there were several gaps in the original installation. It was a lot of work but I was able to take care of several potential problems from shoddy work.

**Platokidd** · 12-28-2015, 11:27 AM

Lowered my underbelly some last summer. Was surprised to see duck work and wiring just laying on top of the corrugated plastic. Actually Im not surprised anymore with rv stuff.

So be very careful cutting into the underbelly. Use underbelly tape to seal the area when done. And like MillerTime said hinge towards the front.

episodic · 12-28-2015, 12:41 PM

Happy camper, can you post pictures of the 1x2 setup?

nodrawers · 12-28-2015, 01:28 PM

Have been wanting to check an underbelly area but was not sure about cutting it. Thanks to replies I don't see that its much of a problem now. Thanks

Carrier · 12-28-2015, 01:28 PM

When I had to reattach the underbelly on my 2015 Windjammer I was absolutely disgusted with the quality of work that Forest River does. Are the other oem's the same? Probably.
A monkey could have done as good or better job. If you can you would be advised to drop the underbelly, fix the disgusting mess that you will find with the wiring, plumbing pipes and heating ducts then add crossmembers to attach the coroplast to and seal around the edges.
If you can't do this then do like others have suggested and cut a 3 sided trapdoor where you think you have to. Repair what you need and seal backup.

Happy Camper 2715 · 12-28-2015, 01:40 PM

Not really ,its all closed up at this time. What I did was remove the complete coroplast cover from bottom of the trailer. I took some 2x4s and ripped them lengthwise. I guess that makes them 2x2s not 1x2s as previously stated. then I placed them over the original firing strips that were nailed, Yes I said nailed to the frame, and predrilled 1/8" holes in the wood into the frame. I then used two and a half inch deck screws to fasten the strips to the frame. I also added cross braces made of 2x2s approx every 4 ft. so the coroplast dosen't sag like it did from the factory. By doing this mod I was able to hang the heating ducts with strapping material from the floor bottom so they weren't being crushed, It also allowed me to cover the gas line so it wasn't exposed under the trailer. While I had the bottom off I was able reroute hoses that had excessive bends in them and patch the heating duct to the bedroom which was the reason I pulled the bottom in the first place. If you do this you will find several things that can be fixed before they become a problem, or at least I did. Good Luck.

Harkerr · 12-28-2015, 03:30 PM

I have also had two sections down. For plumbing and valve work. I had to carefully bow them in and out. I also added a 1X2 cross piece and used more screws. Also added insulation in a few spots. Good to have a look. On a difficulty index1-10 it was about a 4

Volvodriver · 12-28-2015, 05:02 PM

Been in ours several times and definitely hinge to the front and use underbelly tape. You will be glad you did.

Dave

Quiroule · 12-28-2015, 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Happy Camper 2715

Not really ,its all closed up at this time. What I did was remove the complete coroplast cover from bottom of the trailer. I took some 2x4s and ripped them lengthwise. I guess that makes them 2x2s not 1x2s as previously stated. then I placed them over the original firing strips that were nailed, Yes I said nailed to the frame, and predrilled 1/8" holes in the wood into the frame. I then used two and a half inch deck screws to fasten the strips to the frame. I also added cross braces made of 2x2s approx every 4 ft. so the coroplast dosen't sag like it did from the factory. By doing this mod I was able to hang the heating ducts with strapping material from the floor bottom so they weren't being crushed, It also allowed me to cover the gas line so it wasn't exposed under the trailer. While I had the bottom off I was able reroute hoses that had excessive bends in them and patch the heating duct to the bedroom which was the reason I pulled the bottom in the first place. If you do this you will find several things that can be fixed before they become a problem, or at least I did. Good Luck.

Sonds like the way to go. Do-you have any pictures.

kenenn · 12-28-2015, 08:25 PM

I have had mine off each year for the past 4 for repairs to a stubborn crack in the black tank and replaced one flush valve. No problems and if you have to replace a screw, just use self tapping screws anywhere along the edges. Also replaced the insulation with dense Styrofoam and replaced 2 of the 2 X 2's with no problems.

mud yapster · 12-29-2015, 09:21 AM

FYI - Home Depot carries the Coroplast 4'x8' sheets $15 per sheet just in case you need some extra or to replace any damaged sheets.

MOODMAN · 12-29-2015, 11:36 AM

Just curious here, but many makers claim that their underbelly is insulated and able to withstand cold temps. They also say that excess heat is ducted down there to keep pipes from freezing.
So, how is the heat distributed? Do they just cut a hole in a random duct? I also want to know how the heat is retained? If it is just heat being put into a large void, then won't it escape as fast as you put it in?
Those of you who have looked, do you see evidence of insulation? If so, what type? Spray foam or fiberglass batts?
Would it be good, if you drop the belly, to add your own insulation?

**Bama Rambler** · 12-29-2015, 12:08 PM

Our last unit had enclosed underbelly and it was closed all the way with Coroplast and had thin 1/2" sheets of Styrofoam laid on top of the Coroplast as insulation. There were a couple of 2" ducts ran off the furnace into the space. While I wouldn't call it optimum, we stayed in 8ºF cold and didn't have any problems.

I think the so called 'Arctic' packages have a little better insulation. I also think adding some thicker Styrofoam sheets and some expanding foam would help a lot.

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