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Old 08-31-2010, 06:37 AM   #21
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Nice mod!

Very nice job on the grill support. You can always use it for pulling a boat or some other wheeled item along side while traveling.


Sid HRH-Daisy

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Old 08-31-2010, 05:26 PM   #22
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here is more pictures..

...of it stowed away for travel. you can see the pin I installed just in case it wanted to rotate against the camper wall.
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File Type: jpg IMG_2524a.jpg (46.0 KB, 3 views)

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Old 08-31-2010, 05:40 PM   #23
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I had a couple of pieces of 2 x 2 lumber laying around, so I did a bit of fiddling today. I setup my awning then clamped 1 piece to the bumper. W/ the 2nd I checked clearance under the awning arm. I should be good to go when I start to fab mine.

RP's idea reminds me of the articulating arms that are used in automotive ass'y plant to hold tools or transfer parts.

I'm thinking of adding a stop to the stationary arm to prevent the moving arm/BBQ/grill from swinging into the side of the RV.
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Old 08-31-2010, 07:22 PM   #24
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the black knob tightens

so well that it won't swing unless forcibly pushed. I used a 1/16" thick nylon-like plastic between the arms that compresses a little when tightened down. I put the pin in before I realized that the washer would stop it from moving. But, I use it anyway as a bit of assurance it won't hit the camper.
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Old 08-31-2010, 09:29 PM   #25
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I noticed that "washer" in the initial pics. I was thinking it was there to prevent the metal on metal contact which would scrape the paint off.

The piece of round stock in the moving arm, is it welded to the arm and does it have a tapped hole for the bolt w/ hand knob to thread into? Or is there a nut welded under the moving arm?
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2011 Chevrolet K2500HD w/ Tekonsha P3 brake controller, Husky W/D hitch
2009 Rockwood 2106 Mini-Lite
Nights camped 2009: 5
Nights camped 2010: 21
Nights camped 2011: 11
http://inlinethumb45.webshots.com/32...600x600Q85.jpg
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Old 09-01-2010, 04:47 PM   #26
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the round stock...

..inside the box tubing is a piece of heavy wall pipe that prevents the box tubing from crushing when the knob it tightened. I welded them in place to keep from losing them when I swap the position of the swing arm.

I used a 3/8" carriage bolt that sits in a square hole. I didn't want the stud to be permanant as the swing arm may need to be below the stationary arm to get low enough. The swing arm has square holes on each side so I can flip it around.

If I want it to go really low, I'll flip the swing arm so the square tubing that holds the grill post is down, and put the swing arm below the stationary arm. this position will put the grill about 16" off the ground when parked on level ground.

to go high as possible the swing arm is on top of the stationary arm with the square tubing facing up. The sky is the limit on how high I can go by changing the threaded tubing.

The length of the grill post (threaded aluminum tubing) is arbitrary. I just didn't want to cut it yet until I get more use in different camping situations. Then I'll shorten it if need be. the higher the post, the more wobbly the grill. Although it won't interfere with the use of the grill, I just feel better if it doesn't wobble at all. thus my need to keep the upper arm adjustable.

I camp in fields/parks/woods where the rear bumper of the camper may be 2+ feet off the ground-this puts the a-frame hitch on the ground. Sometimes the bumper is as low as I can get the camper in order to get the thing level- placing the a-frame hitch 3 feet in the air. for reference sake, the front hitch is about 20" above the ground when on level ground. I want to camp where I want to, sometimes in a campground. I never know where I may go next thus want to be flexible.

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