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Old 09-11-2008, 02:43 PM   #11
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Location: Louisville, KY
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Thanks for the info as we just dry camped a week ago and sucked the life
out of my RV battery as well as my truck battery!

Now we're looking for ways to conserve also.
I've taken notes on the LED bulbs and probably will buy one
to test but what fluorescent are you talking about???
Ya got a link??


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Old 09-12-2008, 02:09 PM   #12
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There are several fluorescent bulbs on the market. I have used Thin-Lite since the mid 80's. Have had no trouble and see no reason to change. They are readily available at Camping World most RV Stores (
1. A 2 bulb, 12" bulb length fixture will cover most incandescent fixtures for a nice fit.
2. Check the wiring of your incandescent. Most have the wiring coming from the center of the fixture. Buy a fluorescent fixture with the same wiring location. The fixtures are flush mount, and this is needed for smooth fit. You may have to enlarge the hole in the roof slightly to obtain the flush fit.
3. The 2, 12"flourescent bulbs will put out light equivalent to, or greater than 2 incandescent RV bulbs and use less current than the average single incandescent bulb.

My approach to light use while dry camping, which may not be accepted by all.
1. I use no generator,(I am there for the quiet) and have 2 12v group 24 deep cell batteries. Will consider going to 6v deep cell batteries on the exchange of these batteries.
2. Light conservation is essential. I use no incandescent lights. I try not to have more than 2 fluorescent lights on at a time. From this approach, I try to mount 3 fluorescent fixtures in critical use locations. This gives adequate light, though not excessive. Also saves money on fixtures. We spend time outside around a campfire and our eyes are adjusted to minimal light.
3. Try to do what needs more light before dark.
4. Remember that the fridge and water heater, possibly radio and clock, etc are using battery power while you are camping, and you have no choice on this use. LP Sensor is a hog.
5. If we get rainy nights and have to stay inside, we use fluorescent flashlight(s). May also use a lantern so as to not increase battery consumption. Lantern can be battery powered, or be sure to open vents if using propane/gas. Don't use gas if you don't know what you are doing!
6. Don't use TV battery for power source without running engine.
7. Carry good quality jumper cables to attach to RV power source if you have hydraulic slide/legs just in case you over use your battery power.

I learned my battery power/usage from an older TT that had fridge and water heater on gas pilots, no LP sensor, a propane mounted light (which we seldom used)and a single battery for power, and was able to dry camp for 5-7days. The above practices have allowed me to continue that type of dry camping with the extra battery power consumption of new "conveniences" . When connected to shore power you can mix fluorescent and incandescent lighting with no problem. Several of the new RV's have this mix as standard equipment.

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Old 09-12-2008, 09:06 PM   #13
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Location: Enumclaw, WA
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I would add one thing to the good list above:

Forced air gas funaces draw tons of amperage and can suck batteries dry in a big hurry, especially if they are having trouble lighting off. When temps drop we turn the thermostat down for the night to under 60 and load the bed up with lots of blankets.

If you have a rig that doesn't have dual pane windows I highly suggest the shrink film that you can get at the home improvement stores that uses double back tape to cover the windows with the film, you then use a hair dryer to shrink the film and take the wrinkles out of it. This produces a "dual pane" window that cuts heat loss dramatically.
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Old 09-12-2008, 11:28 PM   #14
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Good Point that I didn't address because we never turn the furnace on when dry camping for that very reason. There fore, I didn't think of it. If it really cold you wear thermals and more blankets. Prepare the coffee the night before so you can turn the stove on first thing and start generating some heat.
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Old 05-26-2009, 07:20 PM   #15
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Huron, Ohio
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I see where Bama Rambler replaced #921 bulbs with #168. Are these a direct replacement only lower wattage? My bedroom lights are too bright. I may try LEDs...
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Old 05-27-2009, 07:42 AM   #16
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Location: Southwest Alabama
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Yes they're a direct plug in replacement bi-pin base, just like the 921's.

Salem 29RKSS Pushing a 2500 Mega-Cab CTD!
Gotta go campin!
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