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Old 09-10-2008, 06:59 AM   #1
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LED light bulbs

Has anyone switched thier 12v interior lights to LEDS, the regular ones get quite hot.
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Old 09-10-2008, 08:16 AM   #2
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We've switched a couple. The problem with LED's is that they're directional and to me harsher than incandesent lamps. I haven't played with many of the new configurations so they may be much better for lighting than what I have.
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Old 09-10-2008, 08:23 AM   #3
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Not all incandesant bulbs are created equal. I don't have the stuff in front of me but lower wattage (hence not as bright) bulbs are availabe.

And the cost of LEDs can be outrageous. Careful shopping may find a flouresent fixure that puts out a more agreeable light than some LED options.
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Old 09-10-2008, 08:37 AM   #4
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I'm cheap. I'll stay with the stock bulbs that can be had anywhere.

One of the plusses to LEDs is power consumption. I generally don't worry about it as I don't dry camp.
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Old 09-10-2008, 09:05 AM   #5
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I would like to try to switch as I only dry camp. Any suggestions?
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Old 09-10-2008, 11:40 AM   #6
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Not all incandesant bulbs are created equal. I don't have the stuff in front of me but lower wattage (hence not as bright) bulbs are availabe.
Radio's right about that! We replaced the #921 bulbs over the bed with #168's. They're much nicer and don't blind you when you turn them on.
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Old 09-10-2008, 06:03 PM   #7
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Smile

As one who likes to dry camp, I am always looking for ways to conserve battery power. In the past I have always converted several of my fixtures to florescent. This is a big help. I have found a LED bulb that I am playing with. (www.jclampstand.com/). These are a 11/2inch grid of 36 LED bulbs and fit quite a few different sockets. They do give a little blue cast but at night they illuminate fairly well. The lumens are not very great per bulb, and they cost $20 each. That is still cheaper than a 12 inch 2 bulb florescent. However, the florescent will give as much light as an incandescent fixture with about half the current draw. LED's pull very little. I am still going with a couple of florescent fixtures, plus the florescent over the sink. I think the LED's will be useful in an area where you might want some light, but intensity is not critical. If you dry camp for very long, you just can't run very many lights. With light management, I can usually last 5-7 nights without shore power or a generator. I use 2 deep cell batteries.
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Old 09-10-2008, 08:12 PM   #8
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Try this.

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...?product=OTHER
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Old 09-10-2008, 08:38 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by acadianbob View Post

thats the same place i got mine from.
i replaced the super hot over the bed lights with some bright leds
not quite bright enough for good reading but does provide plenty of light to walk around and go the bathroom in the middle of the night
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Old 09-11-2008, 12:30 AM   #10
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Flourecent is probably you're best bet so far. There are several companies out there that make LED to replace the halogen bulbs that are used in many of the recessed fixtures that are now popular in a lot of rigs. A company called IMTRA makes LED replacement fixtures and bulbs for the marine industry. As most of their stuff is used in upper end yachts I would guess the quality is quite good.

http://www.imtra.com/
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Old 09-11-2008, 02:43 PM   #11
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Thanks for the info as we just dry camped a week ago and sucked the life
out of my RV battery as well as my truck battery!

Now we're looking for ways to conserve also.
I've taken notes on the LED bulbs and probably will buy one
to test but what fluorescent are you talking about???
Ya got a link??

Thanks!
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Old 09-12-2008, 02:09 PM   #12
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There are several fluorescent bulbs on the market. I have used Thin-Lite since the mid 80's. Have had no trouble and see no reason to change. They are readily available at Camping World most RV Stores (www.thinlite.com/products.htm).
1. A 2 bulb, 12" bulb length fixture will cover most incandescent fixtures for a nice fit.
2. Check the wiring of your incandescent. Most have the wiring coming from the center of the fixture. Buy a fluorescent fixture with the same wiring location. The fixtures are flush mount, and this is needed for smooth fit. You may have to enlarge the hole in the roof slightly to obtain the flush fit.
3. The 2, 12"flourescent bulbs will put out light equivalent to, or greater than 2 incandescent RV bulbs and use less current than the average single incandescent bulb.

My approach to light use while dry camping, which may not be accepted by all.
1. I use no generator,(I am there for the quiet) and have 2 12v group 24 deep cell batteries. Will consider going to 6v deep cell batteries on the exchange of these batteries.
2. Light conservation is essential. I use no incandescent lights. I try not to have more than 2 fluorescent lights on at a time. From this approach, I try to mount 3 fluorescent fixtures in critical use locations. This gives adequate light, though not excessive. Also saves money on fixtures. We spend time outside around a campfire and our eyes are adjusted to minimal light.
3. Try to do what needs more light before dark.
4. Remember that the fridge and water heater, possibly radio and clock, etc are using battery power while you are camping, and you have no choice on this use. LP Sensor is a hog.
5. If we get rainy nights and have to stay inside, we use fluorescent flashlight(s). May also use a lantern so as to not increase battery consumption. Lantern can be battery powered, or be sure to open vents if using propane/gas. Don't use gas if you don't know what you are doing!
6. Don't use TV battery for power source without running engine.
7. Carry good quality jumper cables to attach to RV power source if you have hydraulic slide/legs just in case you over use your battery power.

I learned my battery power/usage from an older TT that had fridge and water heater on gas pilots, no LP sensor, a propane mounted light (which we seldom used)and a single battery for power, and was able to dry camp for 5-7days. The above practices have allowed me to continue that type of dry camping with the extra battery power consumption of new "conveniences" . When connected to shore power you can mix fluorescent and incandescent lighting with no problem. Several of the new RV's have this mix as standard equipment.
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Old 09-12-2008, 09:06 PM   #13
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I would add one thing to the good list above:

Forced air gas funaces draw tons of amperage and can suck batteries dry in a big hurry, especially if they are having trouble lighting off. When temps drop we turn the thermostat down for the night to under 60 and load the bed up with lots of blankets.

If you have a rig that doesn't have dual pane windows I highly suggest the shrink film that you can get at the home improvement stores that uses double back tape to cover the windows with the film, you then use a hair dryer to shrink the film and take the wrinkles out of it. This produces a "dual pane" window that cuts heat loss dramatically.
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Old 09-12-2008, 11:28 PM   #14
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Good Point that I didn't address because we never turn the furnace on when dry camping for that very reason. There fore, I didn't think of it. If it really cold you wear thermals and more blankets. Prepare the coffee the night before so you can turn the stove on first thing and start generating some heat.
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Old 05-26-2009, 07:20 PM   #15
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I see where Bama Rambler replaced #921 bulbs with #168. Are these a direct replacement only lower wattage? My bedroom lights are too bright. I may try LEDs...
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Old 05-27-2009, 07:42 AM   #16
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Yes they're a direct plug in replacement bi-pin base, just like the 921's.
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