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Old 12-08-2014, 10:40 AM   #11
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If you really want high-quality light, keep an eye out for the Color Rendering Index (CRI). I don't often see this on the cheap ebay listings. Most of the cheapo LEDs have a CRI around 80, which means 20% of the colors you get from an incandescent light (or the sun) don't even exist. That may mean fabrics look different, or makeup isn't quite right. You can get LEDs with a CRI around 92 - for a price. Personally I didn't care for the camper, but do care as I replace the lights around the house.

Note this isn't the same thing as the color temperature (Kelvin) rating of 2000, 3000, 4000, etc. If you want warm white make sure the actual Kelvin is around 2700. I bought ones "rated" for "warm" but they ended up at 4000 K, which is really "cool"! Daylight is 5000.
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Old 12-11-2014, 06:41 AM   #12
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Returned the Pure White and ( from all your input) ordered the Warm White, will post results when they arrive.

Many Thanks Jim
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Old 12-14-2014, 10:04 PM   #13
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Cool white is between warm white and natural light. I like cool white indide and natural white outside. Thanks
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Old 01-03-2015, 04:39 AM   #14
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warm white is better for me
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Old 01-03-2015, 07:27 AM   #15
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Got the warm whites, put them in and quite happy. I will order a few of the cool white just to try them. Many Thanks. Jim
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Old 03-05-2015, 11:09 PM   #16
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I used cool whites the 36 with T10 connectors. Im also installing a dc-dc adjustable regulator.(part # Step Down Module LM2596) I have them adjusted to 10.5 volts DC. That way they will not overheat. They are rated for 12 v. and my batteries are 13.5 or close to it. Here is a picture of my setup. I will be putting one in each fixture. Can't figure out how to put pictures up with this new forum format. Will try later
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Old 03-06-2015, 01:39 AM   #17
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First picture is 12.8 Volt pb battery. Not fully charged just something close by to adjust regular to 10.5 v DC.
The other picture shows the regular hooked up with 10.5 output to led light. Notice the difference. I think I'll like it much better.
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Old 03-06-2015, 10:43 AM   #18
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Would be cheaper to add a potentiometer on each light circuit, in the correct range to give you 0-3 volt drop. Wouldn't be hard to make the calculations by measuring the actual current on each circuit. Then it would be easier to boost or cut the lighting level depending on your needs.
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Old 03-06-2015, 12:03 PM   #19
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Techntrek that's a good idea. There's probably all kinds of way to accomplish this. Might even install one on the light circuit to cover all lights. I seen a controller that has buttons up/down that can mount on the wall. Like a dimmer switch. The regulator I bought cost $11.98 for a 10 pack. Don't thank that's to bad of a price.
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Old 03-06-2015, 12:23 PM   #20
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Yep, some nice dimming modules available and certainly the cheapest way - resistor.
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